Clarity and Sharpness

[Ysarex]

Good morning. I see you got very good info from Derrel. I think your lenses and camera are fine. One more note: You're working with NEF files in ACR and you're using a camera with an AA filter over the sensor. That means some degree of software sharpening is required. If you were shooting camera JPEGs the camera software would sharpen the image. ACR's default sharpening is conservative (Detail panel) and by the time you have a photo in final output form some additional sharpening will be appropriate. So implement Derrel's suggestions and do a little reading up about digital image sharpening -- here's a good primer: Sharpening 101

Joe

 

[Braineack]

the 55-200mm isn't known to be the sharpest knife.

its hard to tell on the rest cause you're compressing the images to such a bad show quality. But the 35mm looks to render much better, but shooting it wide open means to have to NAIL your focus and your depth-of-focus plane is mighty narrow.

 

[nhilcissistic]

Stopped down means the lens aperture is set to one of the smaller-diameter apertures, like f/5.6 or f/6.3 or f/7.1, rather than wide-open at f/1.8. The old term "well stopped-down" usually means something like f/8 to f/22.

The focusing in the D5500 can be user-adjusted. When you get a chance, check the manual.

The great thing about digital cameras is the fast learning curve, and the almost instant feedback.Many beginning shooters, as well as many intermediate shooters who publish YouTube videos, tend toward a fascination with wide-open shooting, such as at f/1.8 with the short primes like the 35 and 50mm lenses, and also wide-open shooting with fast zooms lenses that are f/2.8 models. Many experienced professionals shoot a lot of images at f/5.6, or at even-smaller lens apertures, like f/6.3 or f/7.1 or f/8.

Generally speaking, there is no,one single "best" or "correct" aperture for any situation, but there are a often a couple or three very good, very acceptable exposure settings for the situation at hand., depending on both subject matter, and the creative result that is desired.

Thanks for all the help! I'll play around with the aperture and see how it'll go.

It's probably your lens. I love shooting wide open and shoot f1.6 using f1.4 lenses all the time. Here's a screen cap of my image at 100% zoom. It is pretty darn sharp at f1.6. Obviously it will be even sharper at f2.8-f8, but I don't shoot at that aperture for portraits.

That's a lovely photo. And very sharp as well!

Only one of the examples is shot wide open so that isn't the only problem here. My guess is in the auto mode for auto focus. Find out asap how to change that to selective point to make sure the focus point is where you want it.

Yes, I guess I also have to work on that. Thanks!

Good morning. I see you got very good info from Derrel. I think your lenses and camera are fine. One more note: You're working with NEF files in ACR and you're using a camera with an AA filter over the sensor. That means some degree of software sharpening is required. If you were shooting camera JPEGs the camera software would sharpen the image. ACR's default sharpening is conservative (Detail panel) and by the time you have a photo in final output form some additional sharpening will be appropriate. So implement Derrel's suggestions and do a little reading up about digital image sharpening -- here's a good primer: Sharpening 101

Joe

Thanks for that link, Joe! I'll go ahead and read that later. This is my first time to shoot in RAW so maybe that is why I'm also really bothered about this. When I was using the school's camera before (Canon t5i), I only shot in JPEG, so that's probably why I my previous images were sharper. So just quick question, do you think I should start practicing in RAW? Or just shoot in JPEG until I get everything else right?

the 55-200mm isn't known to be the sharpest knife.

its hard to tell on the rest cause you're compressing the images to such a bad show quality. But the 35mm looks to render much better, but shooting it wide open means to have to NAIL your focus and your depth-of-focus plane is mighty narrow.

I see. The 55-200 was the first lens I got when I bought the camera, trusting what people are saying in other sites and blogs about it. But yeah, I have to work on my focus. Thanks!

 

[Ysarex]

Thanks for that link, Joe! I'll go ahead and read that later. This is my first time to shoot in RAW so maybe that is why I'm also really bothered about this. When I was using the school's camera before (Canon t5i), I only shot in JPEG, so that's probably why I my previous images were sharper. So just quick question, do you think I should start practicing in RAW? Or just shoot in JPEG until I get everything else right?

If this was your first exposure to raw processing then that can explain a lot. You were used to the sharpening applied by the camera software. By all means keep learning to save and process raw files. JPEG is necessary in circumstances where you must have the photos immediately and when a specific camera can't keep up saving the raw data -- eg. sports action. There's some learning to do but skillful raw processing will produce a superior end result over the automated processing done by the camera.

Joe

 

[The_Traveler]

Most camera firmware will demosaic images to construct a full color image from the grid of different red, green and blue pixels and there is some degreee of blurring involved.
Every raw image should be sharpened on opening to counteract what the camera firmware has done.
Every jpeg is routinely sharpened (and compressed) before you see it. Although this seems like a benefit, using jpegs means you must pick the degree of processing before you take any picture and the compressing is loss-y, that is it discards data that is not being used.
So jpegs are best to use in certain situations: where the lighting is very controlled and you have some experience with it, where many pictures are needed very quickly or where the ultimate quality is not critical.

Considering the relatively low cost of memory cards, one can use RAW + JPEG option and have the best of both worlds.
When I shoot events, I shoot raw and jpeg. The jpegs are used quickly for social media etc. and the raws are for situations where I want to process the image for best quality, such as printing portraits, brochures or advertising.

 

[nhilcissistic]

Thanks for that link, Joe! I'll go ahead and read that later. This is my first time to shoot in RAW so maybe that is why I'm also really bothered about this. When I was using the school's camera before (Canon t5i), I only shot in JPEG, so that's probably why I my previous images were sharper. So just quick question, do you think I should start practicing in RAW? Or just shoot in JPEG until I get everything else right?

If this was your first exposure to raw processing then that can explain a lot. You were used to the sharpening applied by the camera software. By all means keep learning to save and process raw files. JPEG is necessary in circumstances where you must have the photos immediately and when a specific camera can't keep up saving the raw data -- eg. sports action. There's some learning to do but skillful raw processing will produce a superior end result over the automated processing done by the camera.

Joe

Thanks again for all the help!

Most camera firmware will demosaic images to construct a full color image from the grid of different red, green and blue pixels and there is some degreee of blurring involved.
Every raw image should be sharpened on opening to counteract what the camera firmware has done.
Every jpeg is routinely sharpened (and compressed) before you see it. Although this seems like a benefit, using jpegs means you must pick the degree of processing before you take any picture and the compressing is loss-y, that is it discards data that is not being used.
So jpegs are best to use in certain situations: where the lighting is very controlled and you have some experience with it, where many pictures are needed very quickly or where the ultimate quality is not critical.

Considering the relatively low cost of memory cards, one can use RAW + JPEG option and have the best of both worlds.
When I shoot events, I shoot raw and jpeg. The jpegs are used quickly for social media etc. and the raws are for situations where I want to process the image for best quality, such as printing portraits, brochures or advertising.

I see. I understand better now. Thank you so much!

 

[The_Traveler]

Walang anuman

 

[TreeofLifeStairs]

Walang anuman

I had to google that one.

 

[The_Traveler]

Just trying to be welcoming.

 

[Garasaki]

I think the long and the short of it here is that you came to this forum in a panic because you thought you bought a bad camera, and it's pretty clear you just need some time to learn the nuts and bolts of photography, and the ins and outs of the settings on your camera.

It just takes practice. And with a digital camera, there is no cost to practice. So take lots of pictures....

Also, the lens is much more important then the camera body. I had a TON of trouble with the Nikon kit lenses like you are using. I am much happier with the prime lenses.

 

[Garasaki]

Also, learning how to focus, and use the point focusing system, was part of my learning curve as well. Once I figured out how to manipulate it quickly, on the fly, I started being able to compose shots much better while maintaining excellent (ok, lets use the phrase "dramatically improved") control of what is in focus...

(I use a d5100)

xmas wren eatting at at table by John Bixler, on Flickr

 

[nhilcissistic]

Walang anuman

I had to google that one.

And that's your Filipino phrase for the day. haha!

Just trying to be welcoming.

I appreciate it!

I think the long and the short of it here is that you came to this forum in a panic because you thought you bought a bad camera, and it's pretty clear you just need some time to learn the nuts and bolts of photography, and the ins and outs of the settings on your camera.

It just takes practice. And with a digital camera, there is no cost to practice. So take lots of pictures....

Also, the lens is much more important then the camera body. I had a TON of trouble with the Nikon kit lenses like you are using. I am much happier with the prime lenses.

You are absolutely correct. But Im actually grateful that it happened because I got to discover this amazing forum.

I'm actually using a 55-200mm lens and 35mm prime lens. Not sure if they are still considered as "kit lenses", but I guess they do fall on the "beginner's lens" type. Also, i'm still having problems with the focus so Im just using the auto-focus (AF-A) mode. Guess I really need to practice more.