Compensating for terrible lighting at weddings

[Leo]

do you have any photos of low light dance hall shots that you could show me for example?

Here's one taken at 1/60, ISO800, FEC +1, f/2.8

 

[NJMAN]

Here's one taken at 1/60, ISO800, FEC +1, f/2.8

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Leo]

Very nice! Thanks for sharing.

you're welcome my friend. it's not the greatest picture but i hope it answers your question.

 

[jstuedle]

Wedding receptions and live band shots are a lot alike. Low light and a colored light show that is at best colorful but random. I wind up in manual exposure mode, wide open at f/2.0 on a 35mm (for digital, 50 1.4 film) at ISO 800 and 1/15 to 1/45 depending on conditions. You need to pan with moving/walking subjects to freeze motion as best you cam and shoot a lot as many will be file 13 material. Recently I've started using manual flashes mounted with clamps around the room to fill the scene and triggered by pocket wizards. Yea, they rock. The flashed needs to be power adjustable and it helps to have zoom heads on them. I use a couple SB-28's and a couple SB-80's. I carry 2 Sunpak 383's for backup but they don't have the zoom head. It requires a little setup and pre-prep to do right but the effect is worth it. Try to set the power about 1 - 1 1/2 stops under the light show level to keep from blowing out the colors. Example of this can be seen on my pbase account in the "Live Bands" section. See my sig below. Most shot in the last 3 months have been done with this method. Hope this helps, let us know if you try it and how it works. I think it's really worth the extra work and expense.

 

[NJMAN]

Wedding receptions and live band shots are a lot alike. Low light and a colored light show that is at best colorful but random. I wind up in manual exposure mode, wide open at f/2.0 on a 35mm (for digital, 50 1.4 film) at ISO 800 and 1/15 to 1/45 depending on conditions. You need to pan with moving/walking subjects to freeze motion as best you cam and shoot a lot as many will be file 13 material. Recently I've started using manual flashes mounted with clamps around the room to fill the scene and triggered by pocket wizards. Yea, they rock. The flashed needs to be power adjustable and it helps to have zoom heads on them. I use a couple SB-28's and a couple SB-80's. I carry 2 Sunpak 383's for backup but they don't have the zoom head. It requires a little setup and pre-prep to do right but the effect is worth it. Try to set the power about 1 - 1 1/2 stops under the light show level to keep from blowing out the colors. Example of this can be seen on my pbase account in the "Live Bands" section. See my sig below. Most shot in the last 3 months have been done with this method. Hope this helps, let us know if you try it and how it works. I think it's really worth the extra work and expense.

Thanks for the great info John! It is very much appreciated.

NJ

 

[SommarShade]

If they are not slow-dancing, I would go 70th, or 1/80th shutter to make sure they are not blurry, bounce off the ceiling like half power if its a low ceiling 10ft , and more if its taller. remember it doesnt matter how bright the flash is, even in broad daylight a fast moving person will be blurry at lower speeds.

 

[NJMAN]

If they are not slow-dancing, I would go 70th, or 1/80th shutter to make sure they are not blurry, bounce off the ceiling like half power if its a low ceiling 10ft , and more if its taller. remember it doesnt matter how bright the flash is, even in broad daylight a fast moving person will be blurry at lower speeds.

Good tips Thorhammer. Thanks!