creating smooth waterfall effect

photo3643

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how do I create this effect of a waterfall?
View attachment 57804

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how do I create this effect of a waterfall?
View attachment 57804


Put your camera on a tripod or something else that will allow you to hold it extremely steady, like on top of a rock or other immovable object. Shoot using a slow shutter speed like 1/2 second or 1/4 second and see how it looks, and adjust as necessary. It may take up to 2 or 3 full seconds to get the effect you want. With the slow shutter speed, you may need to stop down the shutter to allow in less light--perhaps 1/11 or smaller. Experiment and see how it works. The slow shutter speed will cause the waterfall to have that flowing feel rather than a fast shutter speed that stops the water droplets.
 
A tripod, small aperture, and a very long exposure, which is usually obtained through a low ISO setting and sometimes use of neutral density filters. The longer you can leave the shutter open, the whispier the water will appear. Using a remote trigger will also help keep the image sharp.
 
ND filter will definitely help with this shot. Settings will vary depending on the light so as jwbryson mentioned experimentation is key here.
 
You don't really need a very long exposure. I have found that 1-3 seconds is usually plenty, and if conditions aren't really bright, you may be able to get that without an ND filter. Sometimes really long exposures end up washing it out too much and you get really overexposed areas. A circ polarizer is good too. It will cut glare off the water and slow you down a stop.
 
how do I create this effect of a waterfall?
View attachment 57804


Put your camera on a tripod or something else that will allow you to hold it extremely steady, like on top of a rock or other immovable object. Shoot using a slow shutter speed like 1/2 second or 1/4 second and see how it looks, and adjust as necessary. It may take up to 2 or 3 full seconds to get the effect you want. With the slow shutter speed, you may need to stop down the shutter to allow in less light--perhaps 1/11 or smaller. Experiment and see how it works. The slow shutter speed will cause the waterfall to have that flowing feel rather than a fast shutter speed that stops the water droplets.

You mean stop down the aperture to f11 or smaller.

And the rock idea probably isn't a good one. The trouble it will take trying to find a spot to set a camera where it will be steady and give a well composed shot would be off the charts. You can pick up a really cheap tripod at walmart.
 
I picked up a tripod, but its legs are not flexible, .........

Then you bought the cheapest tripod you could find. A good tripod is an investment, not an evil expense. Spend the money on a good, versatile one and it will last you for years if not decades.

TripodPosition4.jpg





TripodPosition3.jpg


TripodPosition1.jpg



TripodPosition2.jpg


MountainStreamPost_zps622b2f11.jpg
 
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I really enjoy reading answers from this kind of questions because I am also a beginner it is nice to know that the answer to this kind of problem is a tripod though I need to find a good tripod we have a bit of a problem with the one that we have
 
I enjoy reading the comments and advice from more experienced photographers too, I learn a lot. I wonder if there is a way to bookmark on this site?
 
A good solid tripod is one of the best investments you can make. I spent $100 on a lightweight Manfrotto tripod and use it for almost all of my shots.
 
You mean like this?
p1109037058-4.jpg

First you want a filter to lessen the light you are getting into the sensor. A Neutral Density filter is best, or two, or a very dark one on a really bright day. I buy them in the square type, and hold them directly on the lens, and I do have an ND 8 for when I need to travel light. You can use both a Circular Polarizer, and ND as well. You can use solely a CP if it is cloudy out that day, it will work, but I prefer to stack a CP over an ND if I need to travel lighter this is just a preference.
Second and most important is support for the camera. In this case I used a monopod where I stuck it in the crack of the cliff I was on. A tripod is better, but you can make do with a monopod if you use something else to keep it stable.
Third a low ISO setting 100 is best, but if your camera only goes down to 200 in the base ISOs then that is fine.
Fourth you close up your aperture. This lets less light in naturally. In the case of this shot f/11 got the Shutter Speed I wanted.
Then you drag the shutter. In this case I used a 1/4 of a second for this one. If you have slower moving water then you need to expose longer for effect. If the water is moving fast then the 1/4 will work. You can also vary the speed to get a combination effect, i.e some misty, with long drops in the mix. This is where you get to experiment to find out all of the little effects for yourself. And with digital it is easy. Just take several shots of the same scene at different settings to learn what does what to the subject you are shooting. That has always been half the fun for me.
 
Hello,

Can I know how to capture this kind of shot. I haven't tried this before. If you can give me at least some tips and then I could just wok on experimenting.



Here's the camera & tripod set up to take that very shot:

TripodPosition2.jpg


Focus, compose, etc. like normal. Take meter reading. Then install an ND or VND (in this case, an 8-stop VND). Calculate exposure difference based on ND/VND filter. Adjust shutter speed accordingly (there's a lot of apps that will give you this adjustment).

Adjust VND to allow for shutter speed desired (in this case, 10 seconds). Check monitor & histogram to see if focus & exposure are correct, and results of 'milky water' are what is desired.

There is no one single shutter speed that will give you the results you want. Every moving body of water will require a different shutter speed to achieve the result you want.
 
You're going to have to put your camera on a tripod then experiment with the shutter speed. Make sure the shutter speed is low.
 

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