Discussion in 'Lighting and Hardware' started by Soocom1, Oct 14, 2019.
A girl, a wedding and drama??!! Shocking....
Just a quick observation, in the two examples you have shown you are exposing for the clouds. Your ambient exposure is off by a couple of stops. Even with flash fill anything in excess of a stop usually looks artificial, not that there is anything wrong with that approach.
Yeah, the sky looks fine, the building back there is somewhat dark, and the foreground is really dark. Frame downward to meter in front of you where the subject is or will be, and think about what length lens to use to help avoid getting such a large area in the scene.
I am not sure what your question is. Flash can be used as a key light or as a fill-in light. It is up to the photographer to determine how he will use flash, either as the primary source of Illumination, or as a Shadow fill in light to reduce Shadows. In most cases when flash is used as a fill-in source, the camera is set to expose for the ambient light and the amount of flash is typically used is around -2.7 exposure value in relation to the ambient exposure, thus avoiding the so-called over flashed look. When flash is used as the main light or key light source,the camera exposure settings are derived from the Flash output level.
Well keep this in mind.
The problem wasn't so much exposure per se.
Its the fact that the sun's position yesterday is just barely above the hotel.
On the 25th it will be behind the hotel and the whole shebang will be in shadows.
So even though exposure will actually be more uniform, its now a matter of balancing out the shade with necessary illumination for good shots, without much flash!
I did read your post about the change of sun position. I was directing your exposure to the ambient in your two examples. If a person was facing you they essentially would be a silhouette, this means your exposure is off by a good margin. Filling it with flash means you need more power than required, recycle times are longer and the resulting photos will have a distinct harshness to them unless everyone is facing the same angle as the fill flash. You may want to start with a reasonably correct ambient exposure first before determining your fill.
Below are three examples of techniques I am trying out.
The first is no flash
The second is full flash directly at the subject
the third is full flash but with a cotton cloth defuseer in front of the flash.
There isnt much diff. unless you look closely between the second two.
So given this aspect, what is the take of many on useing this and other techniques?
Especially use of deffusers.
Don't bother with the diffusion over the speed light (#3), all it is doing is cutting down the output and affecting the colour balance. The evidence is in the shadow projection on the green tomatoes and the stalk of the plant, note how sharp the shadow transition is, its the same in #2 and #3. BTW, ambient exposure looks good.
For the most part, if you don't change the size of the light source you don't change the harshness. The only aspect where a diffusion layer on the surface of the speed light does work is to even out the character of the light projection, as in if there was a hot spot from the bare head a diffusion layer can distribute it more evenly. If you want a softer light, use a modifier bigger than the flash head. The softness of the light is in relation to the size of the subject and how far away it is. Using a larger modifier thirty feet away will cast shadows like a smaller light source close up, hard not soft. HTH.
Small diffusers only work at close range. Commin diffusers like the StoFen OmniBounce, for example, work pretty well as long as you are pretty close. As was mentioned above , if you want softer Light, then you need to increase the size of the light source, such as with a softbox or umbrella.
There is no type of small diffuser that will really help you out much on something as big as a wedding scene. I would recommend that you switch to at least a small umbrella of 27 to 33 in. in diameter. If you work out the square inches of a light modifier you will find that something that is 24 in by 24 in, such as a small made-in-China softbox is actually many times softer than any speed light modifier.
A 24 by 24 in soft box has a square inch rating of 576. If you look at most flash modifiers they're from 3 to 10 square inches
plus they rob light.
I use these:
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