Daylight flash use v. natural light

Discussion in 'Lighting and Hardware' started by Soocom1, Oct 14, 2019.

  1. RVT1K

    RVT1K No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    A girl, a wedding and drama??!! Shocking....


     
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  2. JBPhotog

    JBPhotog No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Just a quick observation, in the two examples you have shown you are exposing for the clouds. Your ambient exposure is off by a couple of stops. Even with flash fill anything in excess of a stop usually looks artificial, not that there is anything wrong with that approach.
     
  3. vintagesnaps

    vintagesnaps Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    Yeah, the sky looks fine, the building back there is somewhat dark, and the foreground is really dark. Frame downward to meter in front of you where the subject is or will be, and think about what length lens to use to help avoid getting such a large area in the scene.
     
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  4. Derrel

    Derrel Mr. Rain Cloud

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    I am not sure what your question is. Flash can be used as a key light or as a fill-in light. It is up to the photographer to determine how he will use flash, either as the primary source of Illumination, or as a Shadow fill in light to reduce Shadows. In most cases when flash is used as a fill-in source, the camera is set to expose for the ambient light and the amount of flash is typically used is around -2.7 exposure value in relation to the ambient exposure, thus avoiding the so-called over flashed look. When flash is used as the main light or key light source,the camera exposure settings are derived from the Flash output level.
     
    Last edited: Oct 15, 2019
  5. Soocom1

    Soocom1 Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    Well keep this in mind.
    The problem wasn't so much exposure per se.
    Its the fact that the sun's position yesterday is just barely above the hotel.
    On the 25th it will be behind the hotel and the whole shebang will be in shadows.

    So even though exposure will actually be more uniform, its now a matter of balancing out the shade with necessary illumination for good shots, without much flash!
     
  6. JBPhotog

    JBPhotog No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    I did read your post about the change of sun position. I was directing your exposure to the ambient in your two examples. If a person was facing you they essentially would be a silhouette, this means your exposure is off by a good margin. Filling it with flash means you need more power than required, recycle times are longer and the resulting photos will have a distinct harshness to them unless everyone is facing the same angle as the fill flash. You may want to start with a reasonably correct ambient exposure first before determining your fill.
     
  7. Soocom1

    Soocom1 Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    Below are three examples of techniques I am trying out.

    The first is no flash
    The second is full flash directly at the subject
    the third is full flash but with a cotton cloth defuseer in front of the flash.

    There isnt much diff. unless you look closely between the second two.

    So given this aspect, what is the take of many on useing this and other techniques?

    Especially use of deffusers.
    1:



    [​IMG]



    2:

    [​IMG]

    3:
    [​IMG]
     
  8. JBPhotog

    JBPhotog No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Don't bother with the diffusion over the speed light (#3), all it is doing is cutting down the output and affecting the colour balance. The evidence is in the shadow projection on the green tomatoes and the stalk of the plant, note how sharp the shadow transition is, its the same in #2 and #3. BTW, ambient exposure looks good.

    For the most part, if you don't change the size of the light source you don't change the harshness. The only aspect where a diffusion layer on the surface of the speed light does work is to even out the character of the light projection, as in if there was a hot spot from the bare head a diffusion layer can distribute it more evenly. If you want a softer light, use a modifier bigger than the flash head. The softness of the light is in relation to the size of the subject and how far away it is. Using a larger modifier thirty feet away will cast shadows like a smaller light source close up, hard not soft. HTH.
     
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  9. Derrel

    Derrel Mr. Rain Cloud

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    Small diffusers only work at close range. Commin diffusers like the StoFen OmniBounce, for example, work pretty well as long as you are pretty close. As was mentioned above , if you want softer Light, then you need to increase the size of the light source, such as with a softbox or umbrella.

    There is no type of small diffuser that will really help you out much on something as big as a wedding scene. I would recommend that you switch to at least a small umbrella of 27 to 33 in. in diameter. If you work out the square inches of a light modifier you will find that something that is 24 in by 24 in, such as a small made-in-China softbox is actually many times softer than any speed light modifier.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2019
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  10. Derrel

    Derrel Mr. Rain Cloud

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    A 24 by 24 in soft box has a square inch rating of 576. If you look at most flash modifiers they're from 3 to 10 square inches
     
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  11. Braineack

    Braineack Been spending a lot of time on here!

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  12. Braineack

    Braineack Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    proof!

    upload_2019-10-24_20-4-2.png



    flashon_flashoff.gif
     
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