digitizing negatives

PaulR70

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Does anyone here use a DSLR to digitize old negatives or slides. I recently purchased a Wolverine slide and film scanner. It is okay for preserving old film but when I load the pic in Photoshop the pics are large in size but only 72ppi.
I am on a very strict budget and cannot afford a macro lens at this time so I use a macro attachment that screws on the end of my 18-55mm zoom. I use my iPad as a light table and a tripod, the film holder from the wolverine scanner. After some trial and error I found I had to elevate the film holder about 1/4" above the iPad.
Just asking out of curiosity if others are doing this and what your thoughts. The pic here is from a negative that was shot in 1968 in Thailand. The film was developed by myself back then. The negative was scanned using my DSLR just two days ago.
Thai_working_in_hooch.jpg
 

limr

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It's pretty common to digitize negatives using a DSLR, though one warning I've read about using an iPad as a light sources is that the image might pick up the pixel grid of the screen. It's probably fine for web posting (so is using a regular film scanner) but for printing or enlarging, you might end up seeing artifacts from the iPad screens. In fact, the picture you posted looks pretty good, but zooming in reveals some funky-looking noise.

It can be useful to have a sheet of glass between the negative and the iPad, which may be enough distance to blur the pixel grid of the iPad.
 

Original katomi

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When I made a light box I used two sheets of white paper to disperse the single light and to be free of unwanted marks, I change the paper if needed
Can you change the settings at all so that you save at a higher dpi
 
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PaulR70

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It's pretty common to digitize negatives using a DSLR, though one warning I've read about using an iPad as a light sources is that the image might pick up the pixel grid of the screen. It's probably fine for web posting (so is using a regular film scanner) but for printing or enlarging, you might end up seeing artifacts from the iPad screens. In fact, the picture you posted looks pretty good, but zooming in reveals some funky-looking noise.

It can be useful to have a sheet of glass between the negative and the iPad, which may be enough distance to blur the pixel grid of the iPad.

That was the problem I had but I found that raising the film holder up about a quarter of an inch I did not pick up the pixel grid. Some of the funky looking stuff you are talking, not sure about but there is a lot of grain, or noise and this is what you would get in film shot at ISO400 (ASA back in the day). After all ,this negative has been laying in a box for 53 years. Thanks for you comment always looking for ways to improve my workflow.
 
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PaulR70

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When I made a light box I used two sheets of white paper to disperse the single light and to be free of unwanted marks, I change the paper if needed
Can you change the settings at all so that you save at a higher dpi
I am not sure about the dpi but the DSLR is a 24 megapixel camera so I get images of the negative that are 24 megapixel 300ppi. Thanks for your input!
 

Original katomi

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Hiya
Having read post #5
I would look at the settings in photo shop
My sister had a 72 dpi problem it was the settings in her photoshop elements
In one of the settings boxes I changed it from 72 to 350 dpi ok this is over the top 300 will do
Hope this helps
 

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