Do I have the right idea about flash?

Schwettylens, Mike already hinted at not starting an arguement here, do i have come in and say it aswell? From now on you two can stay away from each other, thankyou.

Let them have their own thread where they can fight it out :lol:
 
Wouldn't the only way to really know is to check the image in the camera? Or you could use a flash metering device... but without one I was under the impression that you had to kind of use trial and error and keep adjusting until you get it right. So in TTL you could use the FEC button or in M you would just raise or lower the power setting right?

That was my 2nd thought! Trial and error. And yeah, I guess checking the histogram. I have an entire 1 hour video on Canon 580ex and 430ex. But it doesn't talk much about that there.
 
Let me rephrase my question. I am not talking about flash meter. I am speaking of camera meter. I use my camera meter to check for proper background to make sure it's correctly exposed. I then turn on my flash to properly light the subject. So I wanted to know what is a good way figure out if I need to raise the intensity vs lower it. So the flash doesn't over power my subjects. I am not worried about the background. The background is being lit by ambient light and the wall is say 10-15 ft away from the subjects.

The way that this would work, is if you're shooting manual, you would expose for the background. Now the only way the background will be affected is if it's catching light from the flash or you change the camera settings.

Now say you're spot metering a subject and are shooting at FEC 0 (Flash Exposure Compensation), the flash will meter for the subject and will expose what it thinks is correct. If it's too bright or two dark, change the FEC in the correct direction to get the desired result.
 
The way that this would work, is if you're shooting manual, you would expose for the background. Now the only way the background will be affected is if it's catching light from the flash or you change the camera settings.

Now say you're spot metering a subject and are shooting at FEC 0 (Flash Exposure Compensation), the flash will meter for the subject and will expose what it thinks is correct. If it's too bright or two dark, change the FEC in the correct direction to get the desired result.

YES YES YES!!!!!!!!! :hail::hail::hail:

Shooting in manual mode with spot metering to check the background then recompose, then turn on the flash in TTL mode so I can light up the subject to match my background. :thumbup: So basically trial and error process.
 
The way that this would work, is if you're shooting manual, you would expose for the background. Now the only way the background will be affected is if it's catching light from the flash or you change the camera settings.

Now say you're spot metering a subject and are shooting at FEC 0 (Flash Exposure Compensation), the flash will meter for the subject and will expose what it thinks is correct. If it's too bright or two dark, change the FEC in the correct direction to get the desired result.

YES YES YES!!!!!!!!! :hail::hail::hail:

Shooting in manual mode with spot metering to check the background then recompose, then turn on the flash in TTL mode so I can light up the subject to match my background. :thumbup: So basically trial and error process.

Not so much trial and error. If your flash works as it's supposed to and expose correctly in TTL mode, then you just meter for whatever color in the background you want to be exposed correctly and then meter on something as nuetral as possible for the TTL reading and it should work on the first shutter release.
 
Not so much trial and error. If your flash works as it's supposed to and expose correctly in TTL mode, then you just meter for whatever color in the background you want to be exposed correctly and then meter on something as nuetral as possible for the TTL reading and it should work on the first shutter release.

Gotcha!
 
Ahh, so that's what you are doing... camera in Manual, and the flash in Auto, right?
 
Ahh, so that's what you are doing... camera in Manual, and the flash in Auto, right?

Yes, sorry I guess I should have explained a little further. Sometimes you have thought and you say it quickly thinking others know what's on your mind.
 
You want the subject separated from the background, to make the subject 'pop'.

You do that by having a lighting ratio between the subject and background. In other words, under exposing the background, not matching it.

Light advances, dark receeds
 
No matter how anyone explains it, i still don't understand handheld flash :sad anim:
I only ever use studio flashes.

Any similarities that might help me understand?

Imagine your arm is a light stand. No, really.... that's about all there is to it.

Like you, I shoot mainly in the studio. I suppose that's why I never learned anything about all the auto modes, TTL and the like. EVERYTHING on manual for me. THAT I can understand.

-Pete
 
No matter how anyone explains it, i still don't understand handheld flash :sad anim:
I only ever use studio flashes.

Any similarities that might help me understand?

Imagine your arm is a light stand. No, really.... that's about all there is to it.

Like you, I shoot mainly in the studio. I suppose that's why I never learned anything about all the auto modes, TTL and the like. EVERYTHING on manual for me. THAT I can understand.

-Pete

Ok, thanks alot, that makes me feel better because that was gonna be next question topic, the whole TTL thing :confused:

I think what throws me off is the whole hotshoe thing... in the studio ill use a sync lead n then suddenly a flash is connected to my camera and im like 'woah how do i use this then!!??' how am i controllin the power and knowing what my exposure is?! (Coz, again, in studio id be using my light meter with the sync lead) *confused again*
 
You want the subject separated from the background, to make the subject 'pop'.

You do that by having a lighting ratio between the subject and background. In other words, under exposing the background, not matching it.

Light advances, dark receeds

I reecently watched a video posted in a thread I started and the photog said he usually prefers to OVER expose the background. It looked kinda cool but definitely not what I would normally expect. He said the background exposure is simply up to the photographer or client's preference. Do you guys agree with that? I think I prefer the underexposed background in general but he had some cool shots.
 

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