Do These look Blurry?

[Alter_Ego]

These were taken with my 10-22mm which i recently just got.. They dont seem as sharp as i thought they would. Am i doing something wrong here?

 

[Wesche]

Yes they do, idk why sorry xD

 

[BuS_RiDeR]

They look over-exposed to me. Proper exposure might help them look less "blurry".

 

[Alter_Ego]

Yeah i was finding it hard to get the right exposure, it was such a bright day that i couldnt see my liveview properly. I hope its the exposure and not the lens.

 

[pgriz]

I have that lens, and have found that ALL my lenses start losing sharpness past f/11 (I have several L-series lenses, and do know how to focus, so that's not the problem). I've done testing of my lenses and have confirmed the general prediction of the calculator Diffraction Limited Photography: Pixel Size, Aperture and Airy Disks for my camera that past f/11 diffraction starts to compromise fine detail. Similar info here: Diffraction and Optimum Aperture - Format size and diffraction limitations on sharpness

Your photos are shot at f/22, giving you very good depth-of-field, but losing some sharpness. Try shooting the same scene at f/8 vs. f/22 (on a tripod, natch, same focus point so do so in manual focus) and compare the fine detail. I think you'll see a difference.

 

[Alter_Ego]

So how do i shoot at F22 without losing sharpness? With a Tripod?

 

[Ken Rockwell Fan]

On most lenses f/8 is usually the sharpest aperture. Anything bigger or smaller and it starts to get softer progressively.

 

[pgriz]

When you shoot at f/22, you will always lose sharpness due to the diffraction effects. For some subjects, that's not an issue, for others it is. As a photographer, you have to learn the behaviour of your equipment and know when the compromise of high depth-of-field is worth losing the fine detail sharpness. Mind you, at 10mm, you have tremendous depth-of-field even without going to f/22, so you can safely go to f/11 or f/16 and get both sharp images, and very good DOF.

The diffraction effects work differently with different size sensors. If you go to the cambridge link I gave you, you can play with the calculator and see that the diffraction effects are less with the larger sensors.

 

[Alter_Ego]

Yeah i read through some of the notes and saw how F22 loses a lot of focus.

When should a person use F22?

 

[pgriz]

Yeah i read through some of the notes and saw how F22 loses a lot of focus.

When should a person use F22?

That's the trade-off I told you about. If it's too bright and you don't have a ND filter, then you have to use it to get a proper exposure. So you are trading off the ability to make a proper exposure against the loss of sharpness. I'd think the exposure need trumps the sharpness need.

You may also need it if you're trying for an extreme range for the depth of field. For instance, on your camera (and mine), at 10mm and f/22, the hyperfocal distance is just under nine inches. So if you set your focus manually at that distance, everything from 5 inches to infinity will be in acceptable focus. So artistically, you could take a very low level shot of a ball (or other object) only about a foot from the camera, and still have everything behind it in focus. The extreme perspective distortion will give you a very interesting look. In this situation, the juxtaposition of an in-focus foreground object with the background in focus could be worth the loss of sharpness.

 

[GooniesNeverSayDie11]

Yeah i read through some of the notes and saw how F22 loses a lot of focus.

When should a person use F22?

Never

Just kidding, I guess if you needed extreme depth of field, like macro work ( or the example given above ). I will say that you probably won't use it very often.

That is most likely your issue though with the sharpness. Also, try using a tripod and live view ( or mirror lock-up mode ) if you didn't. This will cut down on vibration caused by the slap of the mirror swinging up to take the shot as well as camera shake because the tripod will keep the tripod still. Also, to go one step further, use the timer ( or a cable release ) so that your hands aren't even touching the camera at all.

 

[gsgary]

So how do i shoot at F22 without losing sharpness? With a Tripod?

Don't shoot at F22, your ISO was at 400 in the SUN what were you thinking of

 

[reznap]

I see no need for f/22 at 10mm. At 10mm almost everything will be in focus at the max aperture. A larger aperture like f/11 or f/8 would have given you a much better result, like others mentioned.

You could have taken that same pic at ISO 100, 1/25... your settings were ISO 400, 1/100. At f/11 you could have shot at ISO 100 at 1/100. Try again though, that 10-22 Canon lens is one of the best ultrawides for crop sensors available. I've heard it's ridiculously sharp. I think you're just seeing diffraction at f/22.

EDIT: really didn't say anything new.. just confirming what others have said I suppose. :shrug:

 

[xjoewhitex]

It really doesnt seem blurry to me.. but more overexposed high ISO noise possibly. Its really kinda hard to say but it doesn't look sharp as you said. Seems there is plenty advice here with your setup, just explore and experiment different setups. But I always try to use the lower end of the F scale..

 

[Alter_Ego]

Sweet ill try that guys! Thanks.