Do you shoot in continous mode for action subject?

[tecboy]

I posted a discussion about shallower DOF a while ago whether or not I should get a faster lens. I'm not the fan of totally blur background. I like to have a background that can easily recognize. It just gives me a sense of location.

 

[jovince3000]

What I personally like is to have my camera in continuous shooting mode when I'm in uncontrolled environment, but in most case I still only shoot one image. This way, I know that if something quick happen, I can take multiple shots nonetheless and not risking to lose the picture. If I see it coming, I switch to AI servo.

In a studio, I find the feature completely useless though. My personal 2¢

 

[table1349]

The continuous mode seems very convenience while I was shooting the racing events. However, it can eats a lot of spaces in my sd card and may not focus the subject correctly.

Yes I often shoot in continuous mode during a sporting event. HOWEVER...........
Just because you have an f1.2 lens doesn't mean you have to shoot wide open.
Just because you have an automatic weapon doesn't mean you have to only pull the trigger once.

Learn to control your shutter release. In the right situation I might squeeze off 3 or 4 shots continuously. Usually a scramble for a fumble or the ball, depending on the sport. Rarely does that happen. Maybe once or twice a game and not every game.

 

[TCampbell]

On Canon, if the camera is in "One Shot" focus mode then it also uses "focus priority" (won't take the shot until it achieves focus lock -- assuming you've enabled auto-focus.)

If the camera is in AI Servo (continuous focus) then the camera changes to "release priority". In this mode the camera WILL take the shot when you completely press the shutter button and it will do so whether the camera has had time to focus or not. When you using AI Servo, you'd want to half-press the shutter so it locks and starts tracking your subject movement before you shooting frames (otherwise you'll just get a lot of out-of-focus frames.)

There's also "AI Focus" mode. AI Focus isn't a true mode... it's basically a mode that lets the camera auto-select if it uses "One Shot" vs. "AI Servo". The camera monitors the subject for a moment and, if the subject appears to NOT be moving, it behaves as if you selected "One Shot" mode. But if it locks focus and the subject falls out of focus again (so the subject is moving) it realizes you have a moving subject and behaves as if you are in "AI Servo" mode. But the price you pay for this is that it takes the camera a moment to make that decision. If you already know you have a stationary vs. moving subject then it's better to just pick the right mode.

 

[Joves]

Well I have mine set to burst, but hardly ever press the shutter release to do a burst. I do use continuous focus, and the 3D Tracking for some moving subjects, but sometimes that focus point mode will screw the pooch. That only happens when the usual contrat of the subject, and background are to similar. Does your Canon have a focus point tracking mode? I ask because I truly do not know.
Also if I know I will be panning then it will be a monopod day for me. I set my ballhead loose, and place my left hand under the camera gripping the ballhead so I can tilt it quickly. Works fairly well.

 

[kathyt]

I typically don't.

 

[vintagesnaps]

Often shooting sports it's necessary to have a number of players all in focus unless it's a close up of a player, so you're right about not necessarily shooting too open.

 

[BananaRepublic]

It depends what your are shooting I guess, are you tracking a object for panning purposes. Most of the images there are in single shot mode bar the bike and soccer probably the hawk too. for birds in flight I often find dynamic and 3D tracking makes a meal of the bird because the wings are moving and it focuses on those things not the actual core. But you just have to practice firing in short bursts a memory card with a high write speed can also aid buffer lag

 

[Overread14 2]

Here is my method:

1) I use back-button auto focus control all the time. That means my shutter button and my focusing button are separated.

2) I use continuous AF mode (AI servo) all the time, the only exception is in dark conditions when I need the a speedlite flash AF assist light (because that won't enable on any mode other than one-shot)

3) I typically, but not exclusively, use "all the time manual focus lenses (USM, HSM etc...)


With the above I am able to point the camera at what I want and enable the af when I want to by just pressing the button on the back of the camera. This engages AF (and IS if I have that on the lens and enabled) and thus the camera starts focusing and tracking the focus. If I want to treat the AF like one shot I just enable the AF with the back button till it focuses on what I want then release that button. I can then take the shot as normal and the AF won't engage when the shutter button is pressed, thus leaving me free to do what I want without having to always be switching modes.

When using all the time manual focus lenses I can go a step further, by not pressing the backbutton the AF won't engage; thus I can use the focus wheel on the lens and focus how I want and take the shot; again the AF won't kick in when the shutter is pressed. Thus I can shoot in one shot - continuous and manual focus all without changing a single setting.


But there's more, if I'm using a lens with IS/OS (or VR if you're Nikon) then I can half press the shutter button to engage and spin-up the anti-shake. This is great if I've pre-focused a shot or for whatever reason, don't want the AF to engage at that point in time. This means I can "point and shoot" an action shot and my anti-shake is already spun up and already working and ready for the shot when I want it to be.


The only time I really have to change into one-shot AF mode is when using a speedlite flash and wanting to have the AF assist light illuminate the target; because that won't engage with continuous AF modes.

I avoid AI Focus because the camera doesn't know what its looking at nor can it predict when action might happen; I do (or least ways have more chance than the camera) so I don't let it do that bit of thinking for me. I do it and that way I get a reliable, repeatable and known result when I press the back button to engage the AF.