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Does Crop Factor Affect Aperture?

deveaushawn

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For example, I have an Olympus OM-D E-M5 and want to shoot with a Nikon 24mm 2.8D lens using an adapter.

I understand that my camera will double the Field of View, making it equivalent to a 48mm lens on a FF camera, but does the 2x crop factor also double the aperture?

I have never shot Full Frame, so I don't even really know what I'm missing in terms of FoV; I just frame the shot as I want it to be.

Aperture though, if affected, will determine depth of field and it would be nice to know how it is affected.

Thanks,

Shawn
 
No. Aperture remains the same unless your adapter changes the actual focal length of the lens (e.g. a teleconverter). Note that the ACTUAL focal length is not usually changed, the crop factor makes the lens 'equivalant to' whatever, but does not actually change the optical focal length of the lens.
 
Adapters typically dont change the optics at all, they just make a lens fit to another lens mount than the original one for this lens.

Thus all parameters stay the same.

Except if the sensor size is different (i.e. smaller, because if it was larger, the lens wouldnt fill the full sensor with light), then focal length now means something different.
 
I understand that my camera will double the Field of View, making it equivalent to a 48mm lens on a FF camera, but does the 2x crop factor also double the aperture?

This is somewhat of a misconception. A 24mm lens has the same FoV as a 48mm (with a 2x crop factor). There is an increase (significantly) in distortion in a 24mm compared to a 50mm. It doesn't necessarily make the 24mm equal to a 48mm lens. It just retains the same field of view.

I personally would only shoot a 24mm on a crop factor for maybe group pictures (and at a pretty significant distance away from the subject(s)), never for portraits. It distorts the faces of the subjects too much for my taste.
 
I personally would only shoot a 24mm on a crop factor for maybe group pictures (and at a pretty significant distance away from the subject(s)), never for portraits. It distorts the faces of the subjects too much for my taste.

AH! Distortion.... Hadn't considered that. So my question then is, what does one use on a m43 camera that is equivalent in all respects to a given FF lens? Most of the information I find relates to FF. For example, I've read that a 50mm FF lens replicates (approximately) what we see with our eyes. Does a 50mm m43 lens do the same, or do I need a 25mm m43 lens?

I apologize if these are stupid questions; I don't get out much! :biggrin:
 
I personally would only shoot a 24mm on a crop factor for maybe group pictures (and at a pretty significant distance away from the subject(s)), never for portraits. It distorts the faces of the subjects too much for my taste.

AH! Distortion.... Hadn't considered that. So my question then is, what does one use on a m43 camera that is equivalent in all respects to a given FF lens? Most of the information I find relates to FF. For example, I've read that a 50mm FF lens replicates (approximately) what we see with our eyes. Does a 50mm m43 lens do the same, or do I need a 25mm m43 lens?

I apologize if these are stupid questions; I don't get out much! :biggrin:

I forget when it came about, but it wasn't but too recently that 50mm became the "gold standard" for what we see with our eyes. What I think the real conversion is is somewhere around 42-46mm. But our eyes are drastically more sensitive.

Unless you move to full frame, you won't truly get every aspect the same. For instance, when I shot with my 50mm on my old T3, it gave me an 85mm perspective. Which was great, except that my distortion was weird. When I moved to a 5D, wow, did that make a difference. Working distance improved, DoF was more dramatic (albeit more difficult) and low light sensitivity was great. If you can do it, move to FF.
 
AH! Distortion.... Hadn't considered that. So my question then is, what does one use on a m43 camera that is equivalent in all respects to a given FF lens? Most of the information I find relates to FF. For example, I've read that a 50mm FF lens replicates (approximately) what we see with our eyes. Does a 50mm m43 lens do the same, or do I need a 25mm m43 lens? I apologize if these are stupid questions; I don't get out much! :biggrin:


Here's an explanation by Greg Cazillo




The only thing that really changes is FOV. I never quite got it until I made the switch.

What are you shooting (in regard to subjects)?
 
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The only thing that really changes is FOV. I never quite got it until I made the switch.

What are you shooting (in regard to subjects)?

Thanks reavesce. The video helped a lot.

Unfortunately, the more I learn, the more I'm realizing I likely should have gone FF from the start. I did tell myself that I was purchasing the E-M5 to introduce myself to dSLR photography, so I'll use that excuse for now. If nothing else, I have a teenage daughter that has taken an interest in photography, so I could go FF (when money allows!) and donate my m43 gear to her.

I like to travel, so tend to shoot landscapes and architecture. I bought m43 because of the size; I don't want to carry heavy gear around. I also like the fact that it is a little more discreet when working in public.

I'm happy to stick with my current gear and get as much as I can out of it. Being a n00b, I'm sure it will take quite a while to outgrow it.

I really appreciate all the helpful, friendly folks who take the time to share their knowledge and experience with us n00bies!
 
The only thing that really changes is FOV. I never quite got it until I made the switch.

What are you shooting (in regard to subjects)?


I really appreciate all the helpful, friendly folks who take the time to share their knowledge and experience with us n00bies!

I'm glad I started the way I did. I learned what and what not to do and what I did and didn't like. Photography is an ever-evolving and learning process, and I'm sure the veterans will say the same thing (granted it is much easier for them to accomplish something that we as "newbies" seem difficult). I don't have a particular familiarity with landscapes and architecture - just my preference. I like taking photographs of people. Someone with more experience in that genre should be able to help.

Understanding the basics is key to extrapolating more info. I recommend checking out "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson; it can give you more insight than you thought.

Also, don't discount the gear you already have - I've seen some phenomenal work from crop factor cameras.
 
I asked this question in the past (such as the title).

What I read in one of the Sigma 1.4 lens descriptions which I was trying to get answered (I cannot find the specific lens information anymore, I forgot which one), was that the description stated something like ... with the 1.4 aperture it gathers light similar to a Full Frames 2.8 aperture. I cannot recall the wording exactly but that is what I thought it meant.

So I came to understand that a crop sensor affects the "real" aperture from what is stated versus a full frame.
But I never got an answer to my question.
 
I asked this question in the past (such as the title). What I read in one of the Sigma 1.4 lens descriptions which I was trying to get answered (I cannot find the specific lens information anymore, I forgot which one), was that the description stated something like ... with the 1.4 aperture it gathers light similar to a Full Frames 2.8 aperture. I cannot recall the wording exactly but that is what I thought it meant. So I came to understand that a crop sensor affects the "real" aperture from what is stated versus a full frame. But I never got an answer to my question.

I saw on a different thread that DoF changes in FF because of a decreased working distance (i.e. subject is closer to camera). That's what "improves" DoF
 
I asked this question in the past (such as the title). What I read in one of the Sigma 1.4 lens descriptions which I was trying to get answered (I cannot find the specific lens information anymore, I forgot which one), was that the description stated something like ... with the 1.4 aperture it gathers light similar to a Full Frames 2.8 aperture. I cannot recall the wording exactly but that is what I thought it meant. So I came to understand that a crop sensor affects the "real" aperture from what is stated versus a full frame. But I never got an answer to my question.

I saw on a different thread that DoF changes in FF because of a decreased working distance (i.e. subject is closer to camera). That's what "improves" DoF

but this was not DOF that I am refering to.
This was specifically speaking about the light gathering ability of FF vs crop, and how a larger aperture such as 1.4 on crop is similar to a 2.8 on FF.
 
here it is

So I was reading this lens review
Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 DC HSM Review: Digital Photography Review

and came across this

Sigma's choice of F1.8 as maximum aperture isn't a coincidence; it means that the lens will offer the same control over depth of field as an F2.8 zoom does on full frame. What's more, it will also offer effectively the same light-gathering capability as an F2.8 lens on full frame. By this we mean that it will be able to project an image that's just over twice as bright onto a sensor that's slightly less than half the area, meaning the same total amount of light is used to capture the image. This is important as it's a major determinant of image quality. Essentially it means that APS-C shooters will be able to use lower ISOs when shooting wide open in low light and get similar levels of image noise, substantially negating one of the key advantages of switching to full frame.




But now that I have a DX and a FX camera, I can actually test it if I really wanted to. :)
 

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