f64_or_bust
TPF Noob!
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- Nov 1, 2016
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No, I'm talking about "noise", both shot and both types of read noise (pre and post amplificatino). Shot noise comprises most of the noise in an image, but when ISO amplification is applied (high ISO) you amplify the shot AND the read noise that occurs before amplification. And that happens in the shadows. What seems to be more under control in current cameras is the read noise contributed post amplification, which should be pretty low these days. But read noise before amplification is going to follow the same principles in all electronic noise, including electrical spectral density (noise levels rise with frequency) and temperature (noise rises with temperature). I haven't looked into exactly how low pre-amplification read noise is these days, but there is a theoretical limit dicteated by physics that can't be surmounted (except in post). The same limits exist in all electronics.You're talking about read noise. And you're correct that we've removed it in modern cameras -- moot issue. DR is limited by shot noise not read noise. Shot noise is in the signal (light). Here's a good explanation: What's that noise? Part one: Shedding some light on the sources of noise Also look at this concerning the size of the photosites: The effect of pixel size on noise
In the end, noise is noise, and regardless of the source, it all pretty much looks the same.
You have paralell issues in film, though. The areas with lower exposure, like shadows, will start to reveal grain, and if you push-process, you might increase the aparent sensitivy of the film, raising the virtual ISO, but you'll increase the grain too. The same kind of thing happens if you try to pull up shadows during printing. Highlights will eventually hit the gamma toe and compress, and there's no recovering that. The real problem here is that in the physical darkroom you don't have even a fraction of the tools to pull that off that you do in software of 20 years ago. And now, we can reduce noise in post. To reduce grain in film, you have to shoot bigger negatives, dictating different cameras and lenses. From personal experience, I'll tell you that you can't actually print the full DR of film. The paper doesn't match in DR in it's "brightness" or "blackness". In the art of printing from film, you have to use whatever tools you have to fake DR. And suffice to say, you have absolutely NO selection tools available, and have enough trouble bending the gamma curve!
You also can't project the image at anything close to the original film's DR, assuming you even found a slide film that could do better than 10 stops (Ektachrome E100 is a practical 5-7 stops, and Kodachrome is long gone). The reason is ambient light on the screen sets your black level, and unless you have a projector with zero spill, a perfectly dark room and require your viewers to wear black head to toe including masks, one guy in the front row wearing a white shirt will reflect enough light from the screen back onto the screen to hold your image to well under 8 stops. Projecting digital images has the same problem, of course, except that at least you could start with an image with better than 7 stops DR.
I just can't find a DR advantage for film. It's just not really there, and mostly overblown.