Einstain E640 vs AlienBees B1600

Thanks WayneF for the explanation. Since you mentioned that the color temperature is fixable problem. I was wandering if that color shift effects white balance of the shot or it is something else and how long does it take to fix it in PS of Lightroom?
Thanks


Yes, proper white balance is the entire point, the only reason we care about light color. Any difference in actual light color and image WB setting causes incorrect color cast in the image, which needs to be corrected (for better color). This correction is quite simple to do with a white balance card, and the card is not awkward to use in a studio session.

Just to make the point extremely, for example set your digital camera to Daylight WB, and (shooting JPG), incorrectly take a picture indoors under your rooms incandescent lights (or with only the modeling lights on your studio lights). Now that intentional error is about 2500K degrees or more of red shift temperature, instead of just 400K red shift, but it shows the problem clearly. We have to make our WB setting match our actual lights.

Maybe see White Balance Correction, with or without Raw

Or really better for this purpose, see Why shoot Raw? which is about using Raw images, but which has a video you will notice (just below the top), which is in fact mostly about white balance (Raw allows easiest WB correction), under studio lights in the beginning, and later on about varied light sources. If you can hang in there a few minutes, you will see a lot about correcting WB, easily. Basically, we click the white card, and then we don't care what color the light was. :)
 
Thanks WayneF for the explanation. Since you mentioned that the color temperature is fixable problem. I was wandering if that color shift effects white balance of the shot or it is something else and how long does it take to fix it in PS of Lightroom?
Thanks


Yes, proper white balance is the entire point, the only reason we care about light color. Any difference in actual light color and image WB setting causes incorrect color cast in the image, which needs to be corrected (for better color). This correction is quite simple to do with a white balance card, and the card is not awkward to use in a studio session.

Just to make the point extremely, for example set your digital camera to Daylight WB, and (shooting JPG), incorrectly take a picture indoors under your rooms incandescent lights (or with only the modeling lights on your studio lights). Now that intentional error is about 2500K degrees or more of red shift temperature, instead of just 400K red shift, but it shows the problem clearly. We have to make our WB setting match our actual lights.

Maybe see White Balance Correction, with or without Raw

Or really better for this purpose, see Why shoot Raw? which is about using Raw images, but which has a video you will notice (just below the top), which is in fact mostly about white balance (Raw allows easiest WB correction), under studio lights in the beginning, and later on about varied light sources. If you can hang in there a few minutes, you will see a lot about correcting WB, easily. Basically, we click the white card, and then we don't care what color the light was. :)

From what I understand is that I would be able to correct WB in post-production in batch process unless without any lose in quality?!
I hope that battery operated moonlight has constant power output
 
From what I understand is that I would be able to correct WB in post-production in batch process unless without any lose in quality?!
I hope that battery operated moonlight has constant power output

Sure, that is the point. If shooting Raw images, there is no loss in quality. Multiple reasons, but Raw images have exactly the same data that the camera started with, and much better tools, and NEVER shift the data back and forth multiple times (like would be done in JPG).

If shooting JPG, there could be losses, for multiple reasons, but still, if poor WB, then corrected should be better than not corrected. :)


Battery should not be a output problem, color or exposure. Battery would affect recycle speed, and power level changes things regardless of power source, but the decent flashes (speedlights too, running on AA batteries) have voltage regulators, probably better than 1%. That aspect would not be different.
 
From what I understand is that I would be able to correct WB in post-production in batch process unless without any lose in quality?!
I hope that battery operated moonlight has constant power output

Sure, that is the point. If shooting Raw images, there is no loss in quality. Multiple reasons, but Raw images have exactly the same data that the camera started with, and much better tools, and NEVER shift the data back and forth multiple times (like would be done in JPG).

If shooting JPG, there could be losses, for multiple reasons, but still, if poor WB, then corrected should be better than not corrected. :)


Battery should not be a output problem, color or exposure. Battery would affect recycle speed, and power level changes things regardless of power source, but the decent flashes (speedlights too, running on AA batteries) have voltage regulators, probably better than 1%. That aspect would not be different.


Thank you WayneF
 
I guess all has been said in terms of the differences between the two flash units
Thank you all for your participation!!!
 
Thanks WayneF for the explanation. Since you mentioned that the color temperature is fixable problem. I was wandering if that color shift effects white balance of the shot or it is something else and how long does it take to fix it in PS of Lightroom?
Thanks


Yes, proper white balance is the entire point, the only reason we care about light color. Any difference in actual light color and image WB setting causes incorrect color cast in the image, which needs to be corrected (for better color). This correction is quite simple to do with a white balance card, and the card is not awkward to use in a studio session.

Just to make the point extremely, for example set your digital camera to Daylight WB, and (shooting JPG), incorrectly take a picture indoors under your rooms incandescent lights (or with only the modeling lights on your studio lights). Now that intentional error is about 2500K degrees or more of red shift temperature, instead of just 400K red shift, but it shows the problem clearly. We have to make our WB setting match our actual lights.

Maybe see White Balance Correction, with or without Raw

Or really better for this purpose, see Why shoot Raw? which is about using Raw images, but which has a video you will notice (just below the top), which is in fact mostly about white balance (Raw allows easiest WB correction), under studio lights in the beginning, and later on about varied light sources. If you can hang in there a few minutes, you will see a lot about correcting WB, easily. Basically, we click the white card, and then we don't care what color the light was. :)

From what I understand is that I would be able to correct WB in post-production in batch process unless without any lose in quality?!
I hope that battery operated moonlight has constant power output

Late to the thread, but if you're talking about fixing the AB color shift in post, it becomes harder if you have two different colored lights with one being warmer than the other. Fixing an over all color shift if not difficult, but if you have a half powered light vs one at the lowest power with a magenta color, you'll have two competing white balances to deal with. It doesn't matter if you're shooting in RAW or whatever, at that point it becomes a pain to fix in post.
 
Yes, proper white balance is the entire point, the only reason we care about light color. Any difference in actual light color and image WB setting causes incorrect color cast in the image, which needs to be corrected (for better color). This correction is quite simple to do with a white balance card, and the card is not awkward to use in a studio session.

Just to make the point extremely, for example set your digital camera to Daylight WB, and (shooting JPG), incorrectly take a picture indoors under your rooms incandescent lights (or with only the modeling lights on your studio lights). Now that intentional error is about 2500K degrees or more of red shift temperature, instead of just 400K red shift, but it shows the problem clearly. We have to make our WB setting match our actual lights.

Maybe see White Balance Correction, with or without Raw

Or really better for this purpose, see Why shoot Raw? which is about using Raw images, but which has a video you will notice (just below the top), which is in fact mostly about white balance (Raw allows easiest WB correction), under studio lights in the beginning, and later on about varied light sources. If you can hang in there a few minutes, you will see a lot about correcting WB, easily. Basically, we click the white card, and then we don't care what color the light was. :)

From what I understand is that I would be able to correct WB in post-production in batch process unless without any lose in quality?!
I hope that battery operated moonlight has constant power output

Late to the thread, but if you're talking about fixing the AB color shift in post, it becomes harder if you have two different colored lights with one being warmer than the other. Fixing an over all color shift if not difficult, but if you have a half powered light vs one at the lowest power with a magenta color, you'll have two competing white balances to deal with. It doesn't matter if you're shooting in RAW or whatever, at that point it becomes a pain to fix in post.

This !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yes, proper white balance is the entire point, the only reason we care about light color. Any difference in actual light color and image WB setting causes incorrect color cast in the image, which needs to be corrected (for better color). This correction is quite simple to do with a white balance card, and the card is not awkward to use in a studio session.

Just to make the point extremely, for example set your digital camera to Daylight WB, and (shooting JPG), incorrectly take a picture indoors under your rooms incandescent lights (or with only the modeling lights on your studio lights). Now that intentional error is about 2500K degrees or more of red shift temperature, instead of just 400K red shift, but it shows the problem clearly. We have to make our WB setting match our actual lights.

Maybe see White Balance Correction, with or without Raw

Or really better for this purpose, see Why shoot Raw? which is about using Raw images, but which has a video you will notice (just below the top), which is in fact mostly about white balance (Raw allows easiest WB correction), under studio lights in the beginning, and later on about varied light sources. If you can hang in there a few minutes, you will see a lot about correcting WB, easily. Basically, we click the white card, and then we don't care what color the light was. :)

From what I understand is that I would be able to correct WB in post-production in batch process unless without any lose in quality?!
I hope that battery operated moonlight has constant power output

Late to the thread, but if you're talking about fixing the AB color shift in post, it becomes harder if you have two different colored lights with one being warmer than the other. Fixing an over all color shift if not difficult, but if you have a half powered light vs one at the lowest power with a magenta color, you'll have two competing white balances to deal with. It doesn't matter if you're shooting in RAW or whatever, at that point it becomes a pain to fix in post.


Thank you for the info and it is never too late for good suggestion.
What are different colored lights?
 
What are different colored lights?


Different kinds of light sources are of different color. For example, sunlight and incandescent light require different white balance, because incandescent is orange in color, greatly different color than sunlight (which is much more blue than incandescent is). But we can only set ONE white balance. If this is ANY surprise, the first thing to do is to take a picture in sunlight but incorrectly using incandescent WB, and take one indoors in incandescent light, but incorrectly using sunlight WB. See?

Also two flashes can be slightly different colors. Even two identical flash units operated at different power levels are slightly different colors. Flashes change colors with power level (the Einstein lights can be considered an exception - they have a constant color mode that is actual, not just advertising hype). Speedlights for example shift color with power level. It makes perfect white balance more difficult to find.

If trying to light a large area, like a room, with different lighing (like sun and incandescent), then proper color is virtually impossible (without heroic specific filtering efforts). Any White Balance we choose might be correct for one light and its area, but is wrong for another type of light and its area. This would be called a case of "different color lights".

Portrait sessions can be a special case, not quite as difficult, when the area is small (a facial portrait), and the lights are similar, and cover the same small area. Both the main and fill light are on the subject, normally NOT at the same power level, and so can be slightly different color, but there is sort of one resulting color, which we can match for white balance (methods like a white card, etc). Maybe it is not a theoretically perfect concept, but commonly not much practical problem (in typical small and evenly lighted areas).
 
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