Fill flash is flash that is used ANYWHERE and ANYTIME and it's main reason for use is to simply remove the shadows away from your subject without affecting the surrounding area.
Outside, when used to shoot people that are backlit you will be able to see faces instead of silhouettes.
Inside, when used to shoot people that are in lower lighting, you are able to properly expose the subject without significantly adding to the current lighting conditions.
When setting apperture and shutter to expose for sky ... do I need to take a reading from sky first then use manual mode to set apperture and shutter?
Then refocus on the subject (press botton midway?) ... I ignore the meter readings because I've already taken reading for sky? The "fill flash" will make up for the underexposed subject?
Village. I started thinking you were a hard a$$ on this forum but I'm slowly realizing you are funny as hell as well as pretty savvy. Thanks for the comic relief.
When setting apperture and shutter to expose for sky ... do I need to take a reading from sky first then use manual mode to set apperture and shutter?
Then refocus on the subject (press botton midway?) ... I ignore the meter readings because I've already taken reading for sky? The "fill flash" will make up for the underexposed subject?
I was wondering if some one was going to say this.
Actually, after thinking about this, yes: ignore the meter reading of the subject.
Modern digital camera meters? Quite high. Now, mind you, they are designed to meter ambient light or flash coming from ONE location... from on top of or built-into your camera.
The moment you take the flash off camera, the camera has no way to easily control the flash or to meter for the off camera flash since it is designed to meter for ambient or for a device it can control, so thats when an external meter is needed.
Mind you, an external meter is not needed, but it just takes so much longer if you chimp your way from pic to pic.