Film Advance Lever

[Derrel]

It isn't detached, but if I turn the camera on its side the level turns with it. There's no resistance there at all..

It's broken.

Toss it, keep the lens and find another working body.

Yeah, or just throw it in a box, or on a shelf, or in a cabinet. Rinse,repeat,rinse repeat. But yeah...you were almost certainly sold a non-functioning FX-D.

 

[compur]

Fixed with super glue?

 

[minicoop1985]

Hey now, if it weren't for super glue, my Nikon F would be toast. Granted that's model glued together with a ferrule superglued to the shaft and the sprocket, but it's holding like a champ. It's not salable as is, but that's fine-it works and I'll keep it. That being said, it didn't save my XG-SE yet, so there is that.

For film, it really depends on how much you want to shoot and on what kind of budget. If you're getting it developed, keep those costs in mind as you select film and get used to the camera. If you're developing yourself, well, hell, Tri-X 400 is where it's at in my opinion. If you want to shoot better color film, I absolutely worship Ektar 100 in my 120 cameras. If you need to save money and want to just goof off, Fujicolor/Fuji Superia is a good bet. Great color rendition, but the 400 speed has a bit more grain than I really want-YMMV.

 

[compur]

Wanna buy my car with the wheels super glued to the axle? I'll give you a good deal on it.

 

[dvpotter]

Hey now, if it weren't for super glue, my Nikon F would be toast. Granted that's model glued together with a ferrule superglued to the shaft and the sprocket, but it's holding like a champ. It's not salable as is, but that's fine-it works and I'll keep it. That being said, it didn't save my XG-SE yet, so there is that.

For film, it really depends on how much you want to shoot and on what kind of budget. If you're getting it developed, keep those costs in mind as you select film and get used to the camera. If you're developing yourself, well, hell, Tri-X 400 is where it's at in my opinion. If you want to shoot better color film, I absolutely worship Ektar 100 in my 120 cameras. If you need to save money and want to just goof off, Fujicolor/Fuji Superia is a good bet. Great color rendition, but the 400 speed has a bit more grain than I really want-YMMV.

I'm going to shoot colour to begin with, B&W developing is around £4/$6 extra at my local lab which isn't much but would be an extra roll of film. A lot of people have suggested the Ektar 100, I think I'm going to go with that and a roll of Superia for now. Thank you!

 

[Derrel]

If you have the opportunity, the little Yashica FX-3 was a wonderful manual, match-diode 35mm SLR in the style of the Nikon FM and Pentax MX; a small body, with a simple "plus"/ON/minus diode system for adjusting exposure. It has n o depth of field preview button, b ut other than that, it's really a FUN camera to use. So, keep an eye out for that.

The Yashica ML 42-75mm zoom lens is an interesting lens...kind of an odd focal length range, yet, QUITE useful I would think; as an aside, I find that 43mm field of view on FF is, for me, a VERY useful lens length. Zeiss used to make cameras equipped with 45mm prime lenses, and I owned one of those, and on my Nikon FF, I often like the 43,44,45mm field of view, so I would think that the zoom lens you got with this would be a keeper as a walk-around lens. It's a nice small zoom lens, which is a major plus, the small physical size.

 

[vimwiz]

I'm going to shoot colour to begin with, B&W developing is around £4/$6 extra at my local lab which isn't much but would be an extra roll of film. A lot of people have suggested the Ektar 100, I think I'm going to go with that and a roll of Superia for now. Thank you!

I spent around £100 total on chemicals, kit , now I can process rolls of Ilford B&W for around £2 apiece at home. If you are shooting regularly its much better and cheaper than paying £10+ for a lab to do it (poorly!) - Ilford HP5+ B&W is about £5 a roll, and easy to develop at home.

Colourwise the cheap-ish (3 rolls for a fiver) Fuji stuff from Asda is very good, more economical than the Superia. There is Agfa for £1 a roll in poundland thats ok but has a slightly "retro" feel. Kodak ultraMAX is my fave though, about £6 in boots etc.

 

[limr]

Those are all fine films, but for beginners, I think Kodak TriX for black and white and either Fuji Superia or Kodak Gold (probably 200 ISO) for color is better. Portra and Ektar are gorgeous films but they're less tolerant of exposure errors. And TriX is just awesome, beginner or no

Edit: Didn't realize when I responded that there was a second page!

Anyway, I was referring to Kodak Portra and Ektar for color film. As I said, really great films, but Ektar is even less tolerant than Portra is. They're also pricier. I say if you're starting out, buy cheaper color film (that is still good) and shoot a LOT of it. My two cents

 

[minicoop1985]

Wanna buy my car with the wheels super glued to the axle? I'll give you a good deal on it.

Nah, superglue's not enough. That's a job for JB Weld.

I forgot about Kodak Gold. I can't find it new around here anymore-just expired from time to time.

 

[dvpotter]

Those are all fine films, but for beginners, I think Kodak TriX for black and white and either Fuji Superia or Kodak Gold (probably 200 ISO) for color is better. Portra and Ektar are gorgeous films but they're less tolerant of exposure errors. And TriX is just awesome, beginner or no

Edit: Didn't realize when I responded that there was a second page!

Anyway, I was referring to Kodak Portra and Ektar for color film. As I said, really great films, but Ektar is even less tolerant than Portra is. They're also pricier. I say if you're starting out, buy cheaper color film (that is still good) and shoot a LOT of it. My two cents

Thank you! I just picked up some cheap Tudor XLX up off eBay, it's less that $2 a roll so I thought it'd worth trying that before moving up to the more expensive films!