Film developed (incorrectly?)

[jhermes]

Hey guys I dropped some Tmax 400 off at my local CVS today for developing. This roll was really just a test on a camera I recently got, to see if it worked. Well somehow, my film failed to develop correctly. The negatives turned a purple tint but with no image developed on them. It was just straight purple (I can post a photo if this isn't clear enough). I have heard of Tmax film turning purple if not fixed/washed long enough, but I'm not sure if that's the situation CVS had. Should I blame my camera or the nice folks at CVS?

 

[compur]

I would suspect CVS. It's not unusual for drug store film dept. people to put
traditional B&W film through a C-41 (color neg) process by mistake.

This removes all the silver from the film which is the image in the B&W
film context.

 

[KenC]

Are the frame numbers and film name on the edges well developed? If not, there certainly is a problem with the lab. If they look fine, but there is nothing in the image area, then the camera failed the test.

 

[Sw1tchFX]

Drug store joints like CVS and Wallgreens can only develop C-41 film and X-Process E-6.

Real black and white isn't either of those.

The lab tech at CVS should have known better than to develop it, but you should also know for future reference you can't use black and white film and expect to just 1-Hour it anywhere.

 

[Paul Ron]

That film has to be developed using traditional B&W chemicals, not a color process. If you want to use CVS for B&W, then get NeoPan, a C-41 processed B&W film.

 

[Seekwence]

I had this exact same problem recently. Didn't take notice of the film in the camera (at the time I was sharing the camera with my roommate) and dropped it off at CVS. Same purple tint you are describing. I emailed CVS corporate to complain (since they didn't mention anything when I dropped it off and not much more than "I'm sorry" when I went to pick up). I probably could have raised a fuss, but ended up dropping it after an apology from customer service representative.

 

[Fender5388]

yea, ive never heard of a 1 hour photo developing traditional black and white film.

 

[jhermes]

Thanks for the help everyone, I'm thinking about going back to the store and seeing if they'll replace my film because of their mistake. And then I'm going to have to buy a developing tank and all the chemicals I need to develop on my own!

 

[djacobox372]

Thanks for the help everyone, I'm thinking about going back to the store and seeing if they'll replace my film because of their mistake. And then I'm going to have to buy a developing tank and all the chemicals I need to develop on my own!

Good idea, to help out; here's a shopping list that I would recommend for at-home developing:

1)Kodak HC-110 developer Kodak HC110 Film Developer Concentrate to make 2 Gallons | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

2)Kodafix Kodak Kodafix to Make 1 Gallon | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

3)Two Reel Developing Tank: Arista Premium Double Reel Developing Tank with two reels | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

4) Kodak Photo-flo: Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

5) 1000ml graduated cylinder: Arista Graduated Cylinder 1000ml | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

6) 50ml graduated cylinder (for measuring small quantities of developer): Arista Graduated Cylinder 50ml | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

7) changing bag: Arista Changing Bag 27 in. x 30 in. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

8) One quart container to store reusable fix: Delta Datatainer 1 QT (32OZ) | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

10) clips for hanging drying photos.

Total cost: around $80 + shipping

One bottle of HC-110 is good for around 40 rolls using 1:31 dilution. The bottle of Fix will last even longer, as it can be reused many times. Chemical costs end up being less then 50 cents or less a roll.

You could also by kodak stop, but I just use tapwater.

Tmax developer might look a tiny bit better when used with tmax film then hc110, but it's a lot more expensive. I've used both, and I can't see much of a difference.

I'd recommend doing the last wash of the negatives in distilled water with a few ML of photo-flo so your negatives dry clean and streak free.

 

[Josh66]

Total cost: around $80 + shipping

I think I know what I'm getting for Christmas...

I think I'm going to get all that stuff, and a 100' roll of Tri-X 400 from B&H (Freestyle doesn't sell bulk film for some reason...). I already have a bulk loader, but only have color bulk film.

 

[Josh66]

How accurately does the temperature have to be controlled?

Is it just a matter of knowing the temperature (and not necessarily changing it) so you can adjust for it?

Would a good thermometer be a necessary addition to that shopping list, or is that something you can do without at first?

If you need one right away, what kind of range does it need to cover?

 

[KenC]

You do need to get the developer within about half a degree Fahrenheit of the recommended temperature, so you need a fairly accurate thermometer. Look at recommended developing times and you'll see they sometimes change by 30 sec or so when the developer temp changes by about a degree F, and that is a significant difference. Most developers recommend a temp about 68-70 deg F, so a thermometer that will measure from about 66 to about 75 will do. The stop and fixer temps are not that important as long as they are not greatly different from the developer temp. If you try to develop near room temperature, you should not have a problem.

If you do use Tmax, read up on Tmax developer. I actually found it to be much better than HC-110 for Tmax films, but that was ten years ago, so it may not be the case any longer.

 

[Foxwolfe]

Good idea, to help out; here's a shopping list that I would recommend for at-home developing:

What would be the minimal space requirements for a setup like this?

 

[Ken Rockwell Fan]

Good idea, to help out; here's a shopping list that I would recommend for at-home developing:

1)Kodak HC-110 developer Kodak HC110 Film Developer Concentrate to make 2 Gallons | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

2)Kodafix Kodak Kodafix to Make 1 Gallon | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

3)Two Reel Developing Tank: Arista Premium Double Reel Developing Tank with two reels | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

4) Kodak Photo-flo: Kodak Photo Flo 200 16 oz. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

5) 1000ml graduated cylinder: Arista Graduated Cylinder 1000ml | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

6) 50ml graduated cylinder (for measuring small quantities of developer): Arista Graduated Cylinder 50ml | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

7) changing bag: Arista Changing Bag 27 in. x 30 in. | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

8) One quart container to store reusable fix: Delta Datatainer 1 QT (32OZ) | Freestyle Photographic Supplies

10) clips for hanging drying photos.

Total cost: around $80 + shipping

One bottle of HC-110 is good for around 40 rolls using 1:31 dilution. The bottle of Fix will last even longer, as it can be reused many times. Chemical costs end up being less then 50 cents or less a roll.

You could also by kodak stop, but I just use tapwater.

Tmax developer might look a tiny bit better when used with tmax film then hc110, but it's a lot more expensive. I've used both, and I can't see much of a difference.

I'd recommend doing the last wash of the negatives in distilled water with a few ML of photo-flo so your negatives dry clean and streak free.

 

[ann]

If your using a changing bag, nothing with regard to a large space.

You would need someplace to mix chemistry, store chemistry and the other equipment. Think a large plastic container from Target which would fit in a closet.

When developing use a bathroom , not the kitchen. Chemistry always gets splashed and the kitchen is not a good idea.

If you decide to use HC110, I would recommend using it as a one shot developer . If you mix it up all at once, it will oxide faster unless your doing a LOT of developing in a short time. That will also reduce the need for more containers to hold pre-mixed solutions.

A lot of the items on this list can be found on ebay and on craiglist for less money which will reduce the cost. Not the cost of the chemistry but of tanks.