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dylanstraub

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What kind of shots should I use a ND filter for and do I really need one? I picked up a polarizer at the store the other day and the guy at the counter recommended I get a ND as well. Was he just trying to sell me or is this an important accessory? If so are there any recommendations as to which kind I should get? Thanks
 
ND filters reduce the amount of light hitting the sensor, allowing longer than would otherwise be possible exposures. IMO, they're nice, but there are probably things you could better spend your money on. Graduated neural-density filters (G-ND) on the other hand are VERY useful and well worth having in your bag. These allow you to reduce the dynamic range of a situation, such as sunset over a mountain so that instead of a blown sun and black valley, both are better exposed.
 
If your lens has a hood you can elastic band a piece of welding glass to it.
It's cheaper than an ND by a long shot and can offer up to 14 stops (I'm sure I read somewhere o_O) of extra exposure.

It creates a green cast to the photo but with a custom fluorescent white balance you can eliminate that in camera. If you shoot in RAW you can eliminate it during PP
 
Graduated sounds like a very effective tool for landscape shots but how does that compare to the polarizer I bought for the same thing? I'm curious to see if I one is better than the other.
 
Here's a good summary of ND filters that I found when researching the same thing. They're definitely useful in specific situations.
 
Sometimes my studio lights are to bright to shoot wide open (f2.8 or f1.4) so I use a flat ND filter to "curb the light".

I use graduated ND filters on landscapes where I don't want the sky to burn out detail in the clouds etc. but still allow normal exposure to the rest of the image below the horizon line.
 
If you want that cotton candy effect of a waterfall, get a ND. If you want to shoot outdoor portraits at a wider aperture to throw the background OOF and not overexpose the scene, get a ND. If you have a small room with studio lights and are constantly overexposing your vision, get a ND. I use mine quite often in various situations.

IMO, there are three filters one should have. A CPL, a ND and a GND. You don't need to get top shelf filters, but certainly stay far away from the bottom. I use B+W and Hoya filters. The CPL (I know, already done for you) is the one to splurge on. It is an invaluable tool.
 
Thanks all for the explanation. I think I'll get a graduated ND for my landscapes and a regular one for my close up shots. Thanks for the input.
 
If you have Photoshop, I do not think you need the graduated filters. Just do the adjustments in editing. Look at the Singh-Ray Filters. A single ND filter with 8 stops costs c. $300, or single stop individual filters are c. $100 each. You might need adapters for your lens size, eg. Cokin P series, or those from Singh-Ray.
 
Actually you need 2 or 3 ND filters, because they come in varying densities. You can combine ND filters to increase the overall density.
 
If you have Photoshop, I do not think you need the graduated filters. Just do the adjustments in editing. Look at the Singh-Ray Filters. A single ND filter with 8 stops costs c. $300, or single stop individual filters are c. $100 each. You might need adapters for your lens size, eg. Cokin P series, or those from Singh-Ray.
The Singh-Ray is that much because it is a Vari-ND filter. You can adjust the amount of effect. As opposed to buying multiple filters ( which would probably cost you that much atleast for good quality anyway ). You can mimic this effect in Post but only if you bracket exposures. If you shoot a scene with a blown sky ( where a graduated ND filter would be used ) you would not be able to recover those lost details. You also would not be able to shoot at f/1.8 in bright sunlight without using an ND filter. This is why CPL and ND filters are indispensable.
 

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