First attempt and shooting straight down today

redbourn

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Got a new attachment for my tripod today which enables me to shoot straight down, and this is my first attempt.

Jamie Oliver leaves the stalks in when he makes tomato sauces and says that they add more taste.

And often shows them in salads; maybe for the color ?
feta salad-1.jpg


Or to catch the eye?

Comments ?
 
I won't comment on the shot, there's better food peopleZ around, but, at F/20, you're likely to be loosing image
quality due to lens diffraction. All other things being equal, you're likely to have a better image all-round at F/11
and half the shutter speed.
 
I won't comment on the shot, there's better food peopleZ around, but, at F/20, you're likely to be loosing image
quality due to lens diffraction. All other things being equal, you're likely to have a better image all-round at F/11
and half the shutter speed.

Thanks, I didn't know that, like I don't know lots more.

I have a dozen shots and different stops incl. F/11 and will check it out.

I was having a problem with dof with F/5.6 and around there.
 
Most lenses will be sharpest around F/8 and that's likely to be enough to get everything
you have in focus (if you want to have everything in focus). Lower end lenses might be
not that sharp to begin with so the difference might be small and hard to notice, but
once you know what diffraction looks like (google!) you'll notice it.

Also, at 2 seconds exposure, there's a big risk of camera shake even on a tripod.
It's a win/win at F/9-F/11 and half the exposure time either way.
 
Most lenses will be sharpest around F/8 and that's likely to be enough to get everything
you have in focus (if you want to have everything in focus). Lower end lenses might be
not that sharp to begin with so the difference might be small and hard to notice, but
once you know what diffraction looks like (google!) you'll notice it.

Also, at 2 seconds exposure, there's a big risk of camera shake even on a tripod.
It's a win/win at F/9-F/11 and half the exposure time either way.

Thanks !

I have a Nikkor lens which is not the greatest :-(

The photos in my book will only be about 7x7" but I want them to be the best that they can be.

Shooting down like this I do want everything to be in focus. Shooting at a 45 degree angle it's often nice to have the bg softer.
 
Those added arms on tripods can bounce too with shutter movement. I don't think your d3300 has a Mirror-Up (MUP) mode which could also help.

Learn to shoot in manual and set your aperture / shutter to what you need (the food's not going to run away so you can take multiple shots) instead of a programmed mode.

I like how not one veggie type is bunched up. well arranged for my non-food photographer eyes.
 
Those added arms on tripods can bounce too with shutter movement. I don't think your d3300 has a Mirror-Up (MUP) mode which could also help.

Learn to shoot in manual and set your aperture / shutter to what you need (the food's not going to run away so you can take multiple shots) instead of a programmed mode.

I like how not one veggie type is bunched up. well arranged for my non-food photographer eyes.

Thanks for the advice and the compliment.

Will try manual focus.

Used a remote switch but I get your meaning.

The D3300 does have a mirror up load or the ability to connect to a monitor.

I got dragged into photography screaming and shouting because I needed the photos for my cook book.

But am beginning to enjoy the challenge.
 
Those added arms on tripods can bounce too with shutter movement. I don't think your d3300 has a Mirror-Up (MUP) mode which could also help.

Learn to shoot in manual and set your aperture / shutter to what you need (the food's not going to run away so you can take multiple shots) instead of a programmed mode.

I like how not one veggie type is bunched up. well arranged for my non-food photographer eyes.

Thanks for the advice and the compliment.

Will try manual focus.

Used a remote switch but I get your meaning.

The D3300 does have a mirror up load or the ability to connect to a monitor.

I got dragged into photography screaming and shouting because I needed the photos for my cook book.

But am beginning to enjoy the challenge.
I didn't mean "Manual Focus"

but Manual Exposure. On your dial you have a green mode (Full Auto Exposure) P (programmed) A (Aperture) S (Shutter) and M for Manual exposure mode.

In Manual Exposure you set the Aperture and set the Shutter .. and adjust your ISO all to match your lighting.

I think the D3300 is totally missing the MUP feature (I just checked the d3300 manual and don't see it), so you may not know it's not there.

It's when you press the shutter (or remote) and the mirror goes up in the lock position after acquiring focus. This allow the camera to stop shaking due to mirror slap. Then the 2nd release press the camera takes the photo.

I remember this was one reason I HAD to get a d7000 versus the lower models. But I don't recall the specifics.
 
Those added arms on tripods can bounce too with shutter movement. I don't think your d3300 has a Mirror-Up (MUP) mode which could also help.

Learn to shoot in manual and set your aperture / shutter to what you need (the food's not going to run away so you can take multiple shots) instead of a programmed mode.

I like how not one veggie type is bunched up. well arranged for my non-food photographer eyes.

Thanks for the advice and the compliment.

Will try manual focus.

Used a remote switch but I get your meaning.

The D3300 does have a mirror up load or the ability to connect to a monitor.

I got dragged into photography screaming and shouting because I needed the photos for my cook book.

But am beginning to enjoy the challenge.
I didn't mean "Manual Focus"

but Manual Exposure. On your dial you have a green mode (Full Auto Exposure) P (programmed) A (Aperture) S (Shutter) and M for Manual exposure mode.

In Manual Exposure you set the Aperture and set the Shutter .. and adjust your ISO all to match your lighting.

I think the D3300 is totally missing the MUP feature (I just checked the d3300 manual and don't see it), so you may not know it's not there.

It's when you press the shutter (or remote) and the mirror goes up in the lock position after acquiring focus. This allow the camera to stop shaking due to mirror slap. Then the 2nd release press the camera takes the photo.

I remember this was one reason I HAD to get a d7000 versus the lower models. But I don't recall the specifics.

Will I need a light meter?

I had one in the 70s when I owned an SP1
 
Most lenses will be sharpest around F/8 and that's likely to be enough to get everything
you have in focus (if you want to have everything in focus). Lower end lenses might be
not that sharp to begin with so the difference might be small and hard to notice, but
once you know what diffraction looks like (google!) you'll notice it.

Also, at 2 seconds exposure, there's a big risk of camera shake even on a tripod.
It's a win/win at F/9-F/11 and half the exposure time either way.

I flipped through the photos in expanded view in LR and this was by far the sharpest f/7.1

I toned down the bg and made a couple of other tiny fixes too.

Thanks.
 

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