flash light question

puyjapin · Jan 28, 2010

bought some old bowens lights with flash and model lamp...i know nothing about them or how to set them up....am i correct thinking that portraits with a sort of moody shadow feel are done with the model lamp only and no flash. all i seem to end up with is a brightly lit photo with even light

Big Mike · Jan 28, 2010

No.

The modeling lights are only for you to visualize where the light will fall (and to see what you are doing, if the studio is otherwise dark). Modeling lamps are typically not used for photos at all. (although, you could used them...it's just that most modeling lamps aren't very bright).

As for 'moody shadows feel'...that has nothing to do with whether you are using flash/strobe or lamps. That has everything to do with your exposure...which is controlled with the power setting on the strobe and your lens aperture.

all i seem to end up with is a brightly lit photo with even light

How are you metering?

You need to have the camera in manual mode when shooting with studio strobes. The shutter speed won't affect the strobe exposure, just keep it under the max sync speed of your camera. You use the aperture (and ISO) to control the exposure, along with the power setting and position of the strobe.

puyjapin · Jan 28, 2010

im in manual mode and i leave it at about 1/60th. as you said this makes no difference. i am leaving iso to a minimum and just adjusting aperture. it seems when i look at the lights i bought i can adjust the settings in 4 positions, each time altering the brightness of the model lamp...is this also adjusting flash power??
also the problem i have is that i am having to use my cameras flash to trigger the main one, trying to keep my hand over it so it doesnt fall on subject. i am waiting for delivery of a trigger still. also i can only improvise with a diffuser as i am awaitng the translucent umbrellas.
it doesnt seem to matter what setting i use the photo is brightly lit all over. bearing in mind i have a very small space to work in as well.
would you reccomend getting softbox or reflective umbrellas or stay with the diffusers for now?

Derrel · Jan 28, 2010

Not being intimately familiar with the Bowens monoblocs you bought, I am going to guess that adjusting the modeling light brightness is adjusting the flash output power up or downward, in sync with the modeling light brightness. This is called "tracking" modeling light behavior; it "tracks" the flash power. On some systems there is a switch that allows tracking to be disabled, so that even at minimum flash power, the modeling light level is still maximum.

You could perform a simple test to determine if the modeling light and flash power are linked together. Some systems call that "proportional" modeling light power instead of tracking--but it is the same thing.

You might find this page of interest in terms of seeing how light placement works Foundations of Lighting Placement

Main light at 7 or 5 o'clcock and above a subjects's head height, aimed down toward their nose, so the shadow falls above their top lip and a bit off to the side is a "basic" portrait starting position. Fill light is placed close to the camera lens for "on-axis" fill lighting. Very basic guidelines. I would not worry too much about the on-camera flash used to trip the monoblocs's slaves...it will have minimal effect if the flash is set to 1/16 or 1/8 manual power level. Flash needs to be in a Manual setting to eliminate pre-flash used in TTL-AUTO type flash metering modes. Build a flash diverter out of aluminum foil if you wish to shunt the flash off toward one of the mono's.
Best of luck!

puyjapin · Jan 28, 2010

thanks. on the back of the monolite there are 3 switches and a dial
switch 1 is clearly marked for the flash light
switch 2 has a picture of model lamp with horizontal lines on it
switch 3 has a picture of model lamp

could someone explain this?

the dial clearly is for different power levels

the other thing i am thinking is that i have ordered a radio trigger with 1 receiver and intend to use a photo cell sensor on the 2nd light to trip the flash. is this going to cause a problem in terms of a delay between the 2 flashes or is it not really measurable?
am i best initially to stay with the diffuser umbrellas or try and find a softbox to fit?
thannks

Big Mike · Jan 28, 2010

thanks. on the back of the monolite there are 3 switches and a dial
switch 1 is clearly marked for the flash light
switch 2 has a picture of model lamp with horizontal lines on it
switch 3 has a picture of model lamp

My guess:
Switch one is the flash on/off
Two is modeling lamp tracking on/off
Three is modeling lame on/off

the other thing i am thinking is that i have ordered a radio trigger with 1 receiver and intend to use a photo cell sensor on the 2nd light to trip the flash. is this going to cause a problem in terms of a delay between the 2 flashes or is it not really measurable?

Shouldn't be a problem, the delay is usually minuscule. Might be a problem if you're shooting at 1/500 or something like that, but at 1/60 you should be fine.

Do your lights have a built-in optical trigger? Most modern moonlight strobes do. If then don't, then a simple peanut slave trigger will do it.

puyjapin · Jan 28, 2010

they are very old, im guessing 60/70s . i was told a synch cable can in some cases damage the camera, hence ive bought a radio trigger, which is in fact a battery one due to the fact that the power cable fitting is so old in the back of the light that it is not like the standard equipment

and wot on earth is a peanut slave?

puyjapin · Jan 28, 2010

1975 in fact...

Big Mike · Jan 28, 2010

A peanut slave is an optical trigger that plugs directly into the sync port on the light.
peanut slave - Google Search

puyjapin · Jan 28, 2010

yes that is what i have, currentlt triggered by cameras flash (not ideal)

puyjapin · Jan 28, 2010

anyone suggest a good book for good studio ideas?

puyjapin · Jan 28, 2010

after having a closer look i believe the 2nd switch may actualy be so that when the flash triggers the model lamp goes of for a moment. i also believe that the flash changes in intensity along with monolight. still seems that whatever i do i am getting a phot that is evenly lit with no real shadows/ highlights. perhaps it is because i am using a diffuser hand held in front of it from a 5 way reflector...