Flash, OCF, CLS, Aperture... Help!

kirbym2

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Hi All,

Really trying to master OCF with my SB-600. Some resources say to stick to TTL, as Nikon's exposure system is usually bang on. Other's say to stick to Manual, and adjust the power according to the result you are looking for. When in CLS mode, it looks to me as though I can choose TTL/Manual via the camera's settings (D7000). Taking it a step further, I can then apply FEC.

My camera's FEC adjusts in 1/3 stop increments. In the flash menu mode, I can select M/TTL, and then corresponding FEC (although I usually leave at 1/1). I then adjust FEC with my command dial. I don't know how to equate 1/3 stop increments to power ratings (i/e 1/2, 1/4, 1/8th power) in a manual setting. Also, if the DOF result I'm looking for via the camera is achieved at f4, is the flash exposure automatically the same? A lot of people say to stick to f8 for portraits, what if this gives too much DOF? If I seem overwhelmed, I AM!

Thanks in advance!
 
Those general "rules" you listed are guidelines, I have used anywhere between f1.8 to f16 for portraits--it depends on how many people, and your artistic choices. Most often, i use manual settings all around for flash photography, it allows me to tweak each individual aspect to my liking. I mean, when i take some of my shots, i will run my camera tethered, and after every shot look at it very intensely on my laptop, to see what i want to change, etc. I mean, you want control when you use flash--and of course, ttl takes that from you.
 
Hi All,

Really trying to master OCF with my SB-600. Some resources say to stick to TTL, as Nikon's exposure system is usually bang on. Other's say to stick to Manual, and adjust the power according to the result you are looking for. When in CLS mode, it looks to me as though I can choose TTL/Manual via the camera's settings (D7000). Taking it a step further, I can then apply FEC.

My camera's FEC adjusts in 1/3 stop increments. In the flash menu mode, I can select M/TTL, and then corresponding FEC (although I usually leave at 1/1). I then adjust FEC with my command dial. I don't know how to equate 1/3 stop increments to power ratings (i/e 1/2, 1/4, 1/8th power) in a manual setting. Also, if the DOF result I'm looking for via the camera is achieved at f4, is the flash exposure automatically the same? A lot of people say to stick to f8 for portraits, what if this gives too much DOF? If I seem overwhelmed, I AM!

Thanks in advance!

There's a lighting specific section that may get you better replies for these types of questions.

If your SB is like the Canon speedlights, and it should be iirc, three thirds is one stop. So if you're going down from 1/1 to 1/2, which is half the light and one stop, you have 1/1 -1/3, 1/1 -2/3, and 1/2. It gives you a greater range of adjustability.

As far as flash power in manual, it depends on what camera settings you want, the zoom on the flash head, the distance of the flash to the subject, and what modifiers are being used. If you're shooting at 1/1 power at f/8 with the flash 10' from the subject at ISO 100, then if you drop down to f/4, and move the flash into 5' from the subject, you're going to have an over exposed settings and will have to turn the flash down about 2 stops to 1/4 to get the appropriate exposure, as long as I'm doing the match right. Either way, it essentially becomes part of the exposure like when considering ISO, shutter speed, and aperture.

If you haven't already, check out the Strobist 101 link in the lighting resources post in the lighting resources forum. That should help with some of the OCF stuff. I don't know if DH gets into the basic technical aspects about "guide number" and the "inverse square law", but if he doesn't, google those. That or I'm sure someone here will have a good link explaining those. I think the Strobist guide does go into how using a flash causes you to have to think about 2 separate exposures at once. I know he doesn't cover the most basic things, but it's a good guide if you have a decent grasp of basic flash usage.
 
I gave up iTTL.

Not only did my professor prove "for me" manual may be better, I found shooting with modifiers and bounced flash I was manually adjusting TTL most of the time anyway.
 
Manual is more consistant, but I haven't used Nikon's TTL so maybe it is a dream to behold. It's good enough for McNally... I tried to use Canon's system and I honestly couldn't get it to work at all. It's manual for me unless the flash is on the camera.
 
Thanks for the replies...

I tried to play around a little last night, and I seem to be getting stuck in a couple of areas. I now get that CLS allows me to adjust the flash settings from the camera - therefore no need to play around on the flash head (other than to adjust zoom)

Where I'm stuck is whether I make my adjustments to the flash via the flash menu (I think it's e5 on my camera), or whether I use the flash button + command dial. Both seem to allow adjustments +/-, the command dial goes in increments of 1/3 to max of -3.0 to + 1.0. The camera menu goes from 1/1 with a lot of fractions in between down to 1/64 (I think).

Do I use both of these together, seperately? Not sure...

Thanks!
 

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