pgriz
Been spending a lot of time on here!
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2010
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- 6,734
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- Location
- Canada
- Can others edit my Photos
- Photos OK to edit
Here’s a suggested path:
1) Put the 430EX II in the hot-shoe, set the flash on ETTL, and let the camera/flash work together in the way they have been programmed. The light will be hard, shadows harsh, etc., but you should get a feel for how much “throw” the flash has.
2) Next, swivel the flash head up and take a bunch of pictures. Obviously, with the flash head directed up, the flash will light up the ceiling, and the apparent light on the subject will be a rather wide area of the ceiling reflecting your flash. Several observations here: the flash now will have the ceiling color. Since you are bouncing the light around a much bigger area, your effective range becomes much less than with direct flash. However, with a much larger area, the shadows become much less harsh. If you shoot people, they will often get “raccoon eyes” because the light is coming from the ceiling, and their brows may shadow that light from their eyes, casting a shadow. You’ll also find that due to the light being spread around, you may not have enough to properly expose your subject. This means you will have to open up your aperture or increase the ISO, or both.
3) Try bouncing the light off the wall behind you. Now the back wall becomes the lighted surface. Again, a large area of light means shadows are much less harsh. The color of the wall will be in the reflected light, and may add a color cast. On the other hand, the light is lower than the ceiling bounce light, and there is less chance of raccoon eyes.
4) Put the 430EX II in slave mode, put it in its little stand (comes with the flash), direct the body at the camera and the flash head at the subject. Put your camera in commander mode, and shoot the subject with both your built-in flash AND the 430EX II on the side. Again, since the flash is directed at the subject, the light will be harsher and the shadows will be hard. But at this point, the goal is to move the off-camera flash around and see the effects you get.
5) Now, turn the on-camera OFF, but still in commander mode. Pictures you take will have light coming only from the external flash. Experiment with the positions and get a feel for the distance at which the camera is maxing out and you’re getting underexposure.
6) Now try using the flash in bounce mode, off-camera. Body still pointed to your camera position, but head is pointed at either ceiling or wall. You’ll see that the subject will need to be much closer to the light source (the reflected ceiling or wall) due to the spreading out of the light.
Doing these exercises will give you a good feeling for what you can expect of your new tool/toy.
1) Put the 430EX II in the hot-shoe, set the flash on ETTL, and let the camera/flash work together in the way they have been programmed. The light will be hard, shadows harsh, etc., but you should get a feel for how much “throw” the flash has.
2) Next, swivel the flash head up and take a bunch of pictures. Obviously, with the flash head directed up, the flash will light up the ceiling, and the apparent light on the subject will be a rather wide area of the ceiling reflecting your flash. Several observations here: the flash now will have the ceiling color. Since you are bouncing the light around a much bigger area, your effective range becomes much less than with direct flash. However, with a much larger area, the shadows become much less harsh. If you shoot people, they will often get “raccoon eyes” because the light is coming from the ceiling, and their brows may shadow that light from their eyes, casting a shadow. You’ll also find that due to the light being spread around, you may not have enough to properly expose your subject. This means you will have to open up your aperture or increase the ISO, or both.
3) Try bouncing the light off the wall behind you. Now the back wall becomes the lighted surface. Again, a large area of light means shadows are much less harsh. The color of the wall will be in the reflected light, and may add a color cast. On the other hand, the light is lower than the ceiling bounce light, and there is less chance of raccoon eyes.
4) Put the 430EX II in slave mode, put it in its little stand (comes with the flash), direct the body at the camera and the flash head at the subject. Put your camera in commander mode, and shoot the subject with both your built-in flash AND the 430EX II on the side. Again, since the flash is directed at the subject, the light will be harsher and the shadows will be hard. But at this point, the goal is to move the off-camera flash around and see the effects you get.
5) Now, turn the on-camera OFF, but still in commander mode. Pictures you take will have light coming only from the external flash. Experiment with the positions and get a feel for the distance at which the camera is maxing out and you’re getting underexposure.
6) Now try using the flash in bounce mode, off-camera. Body still pointed to your camera position, but head is pointed at either ceiling or wall. You’ll see that the subject will need to be much closer to the light source (the reflected ceiling or wall) due to the spreading out of the light.
Doing these exercises will give you a good feeling for what you can expect of your new tool/toy.