Focus help with "action" shots, please! (Examples within.)

MonicaBH · Jul 15, 2012

I haven't really tried shooting "action" before (necessarily), so mostly what I was doing was an experiment that went horribly awry.

I was trying to get some pictures of my dogs playing ball last night. I tried shooting in manual as well as the action/sport setting on my D90; I was using my Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8. I started off with the dogs stopped and focus on them, and tried to follow/pan with them while shooting in burst/continuous mode.

SOOC examples below:

1.)
f/7.1, ISO 800, 1/125s, 52mm (manual)

2.)
f/2.8, ISO 800, 1/500s, 75mm (auto)

3.)
f/3.2, ISO 800, 1/800s, 75mm (auto)

This was the best of the set:
f/3.2, ISO 800, 1/800s, 75mm (auto)

Halp, please?

cgipson1 · Jul 15, 2012

S (shutter priority mode is usually the best for shots like this. You can set a shutter speed that will allow sharp photos with movement, and the camera does the rest.

What AF focusing mode were you in? AF-C will usually do well in this type of shooting with dynamic area (not sure if the D90 will do single point in AF-C, dordn'y look like it based on the manual)... some people prefer it with 3D Tracking.

from the Nikon D90 manual:

orb9220 · Jul 15, 2012

Yep AF-C with or without tracking. Also notice aperture way to fast for a decent Dof. Even standing still portraits mean starting at f4 or f5.6. Would up the depth of field by shooting f5.6 or f8 as a start.

Also the camera can't do everything on deciding on what's important to focus on during motion. This is where practice and paying attention to where the AF is focusing on AF-C with Single AF point that I can concentrate on placing on critical parts to track with. Another is learning to pan with subjects in motion. Again this isn't a simple pick up in an afternoon kind of thing. And requires practice and in depth understanding how the camera modes work to optimize and up the keeper rates.
.

paigew · Jul 15, 2012

in addition to what charlie mentioned, be sure your shutter speed is high...prob at least 1/250

tirediron · Jul 15, 2012

Ehhh... I'm going to suggest an entirely different approach, and one that has worked well for me (Not that there's anything wrong with Charlie's approach). What I use is single-servo AF (AF-S) and a single AF point which I normally set as the centre point in the viewfinder. I place that point over the area of critical focus and shoot. I find that tends to work more quickly than AF-C and if there are situations where the background and subject are similar in tone/contrast it helps too.

This image was shot using this method (forgive the compression).

Edited to add: Another part of your issue is your use of a large aperture. Use a tool such as this one to select an aperture which will give you full subject DoF for the conditions under which you are shooting.

cgipson1 · Jul 15, 2012

tirediron said:
Ehhh... I'm going to suggest an entirely different approach, and one that has worked well for me (Not that there's anything wrong with Charlie's approach). What I use is single-servo AF (AF-S) and a single AF point which I normally set as the centre point in the viewfinder. I place that point over the area of critical focus and shoot. I find that tends to work more quickly than AF-C and if there are situations where the background and subject are similar in tone/contrast it helps too.

This image was shot using this method (forgive the compression).

Edited to add: Another part of your issue is your use of a large aperture. Use a tool such as this one to select an aperture which will give you full subject DoF for the conditions under which you are shooting.

hahahah... thats funny, John! I actually use this (your) technique much more than the one I suggested to the OP. And I usually shoot stuff like this in Aperture Priority (making sure my shutter is fast enough for the action of course) because I prefer to control my DOF, (not the camera). It also helps to have a area you can use as a pre-determined focus point (like your rodeo shot).. and with dogs that is more difficult.

My suggestion was made to give the OP a way to utilize some tools that she wasn't using... that might be useful! I do find that with really good lens, AF-C is more than fast enough for most things though (like my 70-200 2.8 VR II).. lesser lenses ARE much slower admittedly.

I should have also suggested to the OP.. about not using large apertures (with the decreased DOF)! At least, not until she has sufficient experience to allow for that.

tirediron · Jul 15, 2012

Great minds photograph alike?

table1349 · Jul 15, 2012

As a sports shooter here is what I suggest to people starting to get into action photography.

1. If you are not comfortable shooting in manual then shoot in Aperture Priority mode. Yes that seems like it is backward and several people will tell you that you should use Shutter priority mode since shutter speed is important. You can accomplish the same thing just as easily in Aperture Priority mode with some additional advantages.

The difference between and action photography and an action snapshot is the isolation of the action. You provided an example in your shots. Look at the background in shot #1 shot at f7.1 and shot #2 at f2.8, & shots #3 &#4 at f3.2. Shot #2, 3,& 4 set the action off better than shot #1 by using a wider aperture. In Aperture Priority you shoot as wide as possible to just capture the action in focus while everything else is not in sharp focus thereby making the action pop.

You use your ISO to keep you shutter speed up at least 1/250th. 1/500th would be better. Adjust you ISO as necessary to keep that shutter speed up where you need it. You can clean up the noise from a high ISO shot, you can't get a proper adjustment to the background in Photoshop. It always looks fake.

2. Shoot in AF-C using a single center focusing point and track the action constantly holding that center focus point on your subject. Anticipate the action and be ready to shoot. If you can, get your focus off the shutter button and onto a convenient back button that your thumb can operate. It is less tiring and you response to capturing the action will be a hair quicker.

3. Don't play with your dogs. You need someone else there to play with the dogs. You are the photographer at that point, not the dog owner. It is no different than when I am on the sidelines at OU, OSU. Missouri, Texas, K State or any other such sporting event. The teams playing don't matter, and I have no favorites on the sideline. All I root for is a lot of good action to capture. Before or after the game I root for my teams, never when shooting. I am totally focused on the action in front of me.

4. Get down on the ground, shoulder level or lower than your action. With small dogs that may mean getting down on your belly. Action looks better and pops better when you are on the same plane as the action rather than above it.

5. Practice. Action/Sport photography is one of the most demanding of photographic disciplines both in terms of gear and on the photographer. Before the start of any season, be it football, track and field, basketball, cross country, volleyball, soccer, baseball, whatever. I hit the practices at some of the local colleges to get back into shooting a particular sport. The athletes prepare for the season and so do I.

Good luck and have fun.

cgipson1 · Jul 15, 2012

gryphonslair99 said:
As a sports shooter here is what I suggest to people starting to get into action photography.

1. If you are not comfortable shooting in manual then shoot in Aperture Priority mode. Yes that seems like it is backward and several people will tell you that you should use Shutter priority mode since shutter speed is important. You can accomplish the same thing just as easily in Aperture Priority mode with some additional advantages.

The difference between and action photography and an action snapshot is the isolation of the action. You provided an example in your shots. Look at the background in shot #1 shot at f7.1 and shot #2 at f2.8, & shots #3 &#4 at f3.2. Shot #2, 3,& 4 set the action off better than shot #1 by using a wider aperture. In Aperture Priority you shoot as wide as possible to just capture the action in focus while everything else is not in sharp focus thereby making the action pop.

You use your ISO to keep you shutter speed up at least 1/250th. 1/500th would be better. Adjust you ISO as necessary to keep that shutter speed up where you need it. You can clean up the noise from a high ISO shot, you can't get a proper adjustment to the background in Photoshop. It always looks fake.

2. Shoot in AF-C using a single center focusing point and track the action constantly holding that center focus point on your subject. Anticipate the action and be ready to shoot. If you can, get your focus off the shutter button and onto a convenient back button that your thumb can operate. It is less tiring and you response to capturing the action will be a hair quicker.

3. Don't play with your dogs. You need someone else there to play with the dogs. You are the photographer at that point, not the dog owner. It is no different than when I am on the sidelines at OU, OSU. Missouri, Texas, K State or any other such sporting event. The teams playing don't matter, and I have no favorites on the sideline. All I root for is a lot of good action to capture. Before or after the game I root for my teams, never when shooting. I am totally focused on the action in front of me.

4. Get down on the ground, shoulder level or lower than your action. With small dogs that may mean getting down on your belly. Action looks better and pops better when you are on the same plane as the action rather than above it.

5. Practice. Action/Sport photography is one of the most demanding of photographic disciplines both in terms of gear and on the photographer. Before the start of any season, be it football, track and field, basketball, cross country, volleyball, soccer, baseball, whatever. I hit the practices at some of the local colleges to get back into shooting a particular sport. The athletes prepare for the season and so do I.

Good luck and have fun.

Agree totally with everything.. except for the single center focusing point ( I agree with that too... for you and me and John, etc...) but the OP's D90 won't do that... I checked the manual!

MonicaBH · Jul 15, 2012

Charlie, I was using AF-C; next time I'll try it with the dynamic area mode. I'm pretty sure I was using single area...

If nothing else, the dogs & my SO got some exercise while I made another meager attempt at crafting my art.

We'll go out and try more when it cools down again.

Thanks for the input so far and keep it coming!

gsgary · Jul 15, 2012

tirediron said:
Ehhh... I'm going to suggest an entirely different approach, and one that has worked well for me (Not that there's anything wrong with Charlie's approach). What I use is single-servo AF (AF-S) and a single AF point which I normally set as the centre point in the viewfinder. I place that point over the area of critical focus and shoot. I find that tends to work more quickly than AF-C and if there are situations where the background and subject are similar in tone/contrast it helps too.

This image was shot using this method (forgive the compression).

Edited to add: Another part of your issue is your use of a large aperture. Use a tool such as this one to select an aperture which will give you full subject DoF for the conditions under which you are shooting.

+1 aperture priority is better for these sort of shots if you can't shoot manual, shutter priority can give you under exposed shots, shutter priority is best for panning shots

table1349 · Jul 15, 2012

cgipson1 said:
Agree totally with everything.. except for the single center focusing point ( I agree with that too... for you and me and John, etc...) but the OP's D90 won't do that... I checked the manual!

Looks like it is possible but is a function selection.

cgipson1 · Jul 15, 2012

gryphonslair99 said:
cgipson1 said:

Agree totally with everything.. except for the single center focusing point ( I agree with that too... for you and me and John, etc...) but the OP's D90 won't do that... I checked the manual!

Click to expand...

Looks like it is possible but is a function selection.

yes.. but if you look at the D90 manual pages I posted above... nowhere does it say Single Point and AF-C in the same areas.... but it does mention AF-C specifically for Dynamic area and 3D Tracking. My girlfriend no longer has her D90, so I can't test it personally any more. It is a bit ambiguous!

MonicaBH · Jul 15, 2012

Welp, I tried again in Shutter priority, AF-C and dynamic focus area.

The results are approximately the same; they may be a touch better overall, but OF COURSE the images that I want to be sharp and in focus are blurred crap.

:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:

With some of these, my SO/helper was unavailable, so I had to be the ball thrower & photographer; however, when he came out to help me, the dogs were getting tired & hot - totally my fault. I will try again tomorrow, I suppose. I reckon it's yet another learning curve.

(At this point, I'm not *that* concerned about exposure, composition or DoF; I just want the subjects to be in focus!)

See for yourselves:
He is airborne here and I missed it! :grumpy: