For those shooting with a Canon 20d

[msf]

Ive been using a vivitar 285 for like 6 years now and its been reliable. I got a 283 last year and its good, just hate the cycle time, which is why I want to get more 285's. I think the vivitars have been trusted by pro's for 20 some years? I dont mind going manual. But thanks for the advice.

Eventually I want to get some canon speedlights, but thats down the road a bit, I want to add a couple L lenses to my lineup first. The vivitars will due until then I believe.

 

[JerryPH]

How much is he asking? How many pictures has he taken? Any hot pixels?

Sorry I just caught this post. I will let him answer here, perhaps he may contact you via PM. He also is considering just placing it on eBay.

Anyways I will do that now.

 

[JerryPH]

I finally managed to get one from ebay for a price that I liked.

Ah, I guess that I won't let him know... lol
BTW, his was in "like new" condition, from what I was told.

 

[JerryPH]

Ive been using a vivitar 285 for like 6 years now and its been reliable.

Eventually I want to get some canon speedlights, but thats down the road a bit, I want to add a couple L lenses to my lineup first.

That is what I was going to say. The Vivitars are merely adequat (I know, I bought one just to find out). Even a SB-600 is a touch stronger and faster recharging, but again the prices are much higher. Like anything else, a quality flash makes a big difference.

You cannot beat the logic of a fast lens before anything else, though. That is the way to go. :thumbup: Don't limit yourself to seeing just Canon L glass, there is a lot of good stuff out there, sometimes just as good, if not better, and at way better prices. Doing the research is the key.

 

[Big Mike]

1. It didnt come with a battery grip, so until I find one, Im wondering what generic batteries are dependable. Anyone know?

I've been using batteries from Digital Camera Batteries Chargers Memory Cards Readers for several years. There were dirt cheap and last longer than the Canon batteries.

2. I have the shutter release cord for the XT, but according to dpreview the 20d uses a different one.

I've got one of those $7 Hong Kong shutter remotes. It works fine but I wouldn't surprise me if it stopped working suddenly. For $7 you can't complain though.

 

[THORHAMMER]

Jerry is right about lenses too. The thing about the elinchrome system is it's upgradeble to the elinchrome strobes, and they support wireless power settings and configuration from a laptop. So your not throwing your money away on anything you cannot use for the future. Trust me opticals will only frustrate you in the long run.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[ruaslacker2]

Ah, I guess that I won't let him know... lol
BTW, his was in "like new" condition, from what I was told.

Find out how much for the rest of us...:mrgreen:

 

[msf]

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1574034

Im not 100% which lens I want to get.

The lens I use the most is the kit lens, because it goes to 17mm. I find my 50mm is to close with the 1.6x crop factor.

Ive also heard that as cameras get more advanced, full frame cmos sensors will be cheaper to make and that cameras with crop factors could be a thing of the past eventually. So I think I want to avoid EF-s lenses, so my gear will keep its value better. Otherwise I would go for the EF-S 17-55 F2.8 IS that is around $1000.00. I did rent this camera and it was sweet, but it made my neck really sore for a week. I learned my lesson there, dont leave it hanging around the neck.

I do all types of photography, including weddings. So I may have to choose EF 16-35 F/2.8L II which is about $1500.00 over the EF 17-40 F/4L that is about $700.00. Its tempting to get this one for a while because its so cheap, and sell it after I can get the other one.

If anyone has any recommendations for alternatives for those two, Im all ears. Gotta start my research somewhere.

I want to do sports, so Im thinking about EF 100-400 F/4.5-5.6L IS thats roughtly $1400.00, although its not very fast.

And eventually maybe a EF-S 10-22 F/3.5-4.5 thats roughtly $700.00 for fun, and cars.

Those prices are like a year old.

 

[JerryPH]

Find out how much for the rest of us...:mrgreen:

Okie Dokie... I'll send off the email right now!

Edit: Email sent.

 

[JerryPH]

Jerry is right about lenses too.

Oh crap... first time in over 4600 posts... I'd better be careful, this could start a trend!

 

[Seefutlung]

http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=1574034

Im not 100% which lens I want to get.

The lens I use the most is the kit lens, because it goes to 17mm. I find my 50mm is to close with the 1.6x crop factor.

Ive also heard that as cameras get more advanced, full frame cmos sensors will be cheaper to make and that cameras with crop factors could be a thing of the past eventually. So I think I want to avoid EF-s lenses, so my gear will keep its value better. Otherwise I would go for the EF-S 17-55 F2.8 IS that is around $1000.00. I did rent this camera and it was sweet, but it made my neck really sore for a week. I learned my lesson there, dont leave it hanging around the neck.

I do all types of photography, including weddings. So I may have to choose EF 16-35 F/2.8L II which is about $1500.00 over the EF 17-40 F/4L that is about $700.00. Its tempting to get this one for a while because its so cheap, and sell it after I can get the other one.

If anyone has any recommendations for alternatives for those two, Im all ears. Gotta start my research somewhere.

I want to do sports, so Im thinking about EF 100-400 F/4.5-5.6L IS thats roughtly $1400.00, although its not very fast.

And eventually maybe a EF-S 10-22 F/3.5-4.5 thats roughtly $700.00 for fun, and cars.

Those prices are like a year old.

If you're wanting to shoot any indoor or evening/nightime sports then I suggest the Canon 70-200 F/2.8 (actually the Sigma 120-300 2.8 is perfect for sports ... but its pretty pricey).

Gary

 

[JerryPH]

For the gents that wanted to know... my friend's 20D, grip and accessories all went very quickly and all is sold off now. I was not told what the price was, just that it all went very fast.

Sorry, I tried.

 

[msf]

I recieved the camera today. I think I got most of it figured out, but I dont have a manual so im still trying to figure out how to trigger the flash at the beginning or at the end of the exposure.

I didnt realize I would have a dial for shutter and one for aperature, thats pretty sweet. And I really like how they moved the button to change the camera from continious or timer. I alwasy hit that button the 350d causing me to miss a shot once in a while, and give me a bit of confusion until I realize why. : )

I wish I didnt have to go into a menu button to change the exposure value while in shutter or aperature priority, instead allowing me to use the dial on the back. That dial doesnt seem to do anything while in those modes so it could have been associated with that. Unless im missing something.

Just ordered a $4.89 shutter reelase off of ebay and got $0.49 back from live cashback! hehe. Im thinking about buying a battery off of ebay for $7 plus $0.70 live cash back for a temperary battery. The site referred to above makes you get 2 batteries and pay $8 shipping. If it was just one with realistic shipping I probably would go for it.

 

[Seefutlung]

You have three positions for the "On-Off" switch on the back of the camera. Make sure the switch is in the upper position for the dial to be operative. The switch in middle position turns on the camnera but renders the dial on back inoperative.

Gary

 

[msf]

Thanks, I was wondering why there were 2 on positions. I had it on the top most when I was trying the different priority modes.

yay, figured out how to change the flash to trigger at the end or beginning, how to change the noise reduction and lock the mirror up. so far no manual use!!

the rebel xt starts up pretty fast on the computer, loading the program required to move pictures directly from the camera, but the 20d takes a while to get going, weird. Also im having problems loading the remote software to trigger the camera from the computer. It seems to work fine on half the computers I installed that softawre. Perhaps I just need to update the version.