Getting started into Macro - Raynox

[mjhoward]

...who also happens to use the Tokina 100mm f2.8 macro. It appears to be a popular choice for more serious macro photographers.

I use the Tokina 100mm... After buying the Tokina 11-16mm, I was really impressed with the build and optical quality so I basically just converted to all Tokina. I've been happy with that decision as I think they're mostly excellent lenses (I particularly like the 50-135... its a gem). I don't think I'd consider myself a serious macro photographer (or photographer in general) though so keep that in mind... I'm just a beginner/hobbyist.

Looks blurry.. camera shake blur! Not many people can hand hold steady enough at 1/30 for sharp pictures. Years of practice helps.. but it still isn't easy. Definitely not advised for someone trying to learn macro. Even with flash.. you should probably keep it at a minimum of 1/60.... and if your camera will do it, sync it at 1/125 or faster, especially if there is much ambient light. This will let you get better shots sooner.. and let you slowly learn what you can do without frustration.

The general rule of thumb is the shutter speed should be around 1/f for eliminating camera shake. This means at least 1/50s for 50mm, 1/200s for 200mm, etc... I don't think this is the same at macro level though. The problem is a standard 100mm FOV is not the same as a 1:1 magnification 100mm FOV. So you need even faster shutter speed the higher the magnification.

 

[HJW]

Yep, I've heard and applied this 'rule', but in the case I would need a 1/100 (extension tubes length taken into account) shutter speed. It was already 3 stops underexposed, but I was shooting Manual, without Flash Exposure Compensation and no pre-flash firing, so I was rather in the dark then. However I've just figured out the basics with a flash, so I hope to apply this knowledge in the future.

In that shot I used Rear shutter sync, hoping to eliminate a little more of camera shake (by 'freezing'). Does this actually work in the scenario, or..?