Going to a night time H.S. Football game tonight...

[hankejp]

What mode did you shoot on? I just shot my first sports shots the other night. I took photos of some freshman volley ball outside the dorms and some students playing tennis. Not too happy with the results either. I took in total about 400 pictures and came out with 10-20 reasonable shots (by that i mean they don't hurt my eyes). I'm sure given time reflexes will build in for capturing the right pictures. As you mentioned, the aperature is about the only thing that could have made a difference. A built in flash is only good for a short distances, maybe 15 feet? (not so sure about the number) I am going to rewind and start with day sports to get good at the technical part of taking sports photography before I invest in good equipment for night sports (which inevitably is the way to go). Anyway, good luck with future shoots.

Nick

Hey Nick,

I tried all kinds of modes. The built in "Sports" modes, shutter priority, apeture priority, etc. I think it was just that my lens wouldn't go ver y low on the aperature and the lighting was bad. I would think that if I had a prime lens with f2.8 or so, they would've been a lot better. I just got back from a 7-8 grade football game during the day. They look a lot better on the camera. I've yet put them on the computer to look.

 

[henkelphoto]

I'd like to make a couple of comments. First off, looking at your photos, I would believe your shutter speed was more like 125 than 250. That's because when you rack your lenses out to their max, you are limited to 5.6--a full two stops smaller than 2.8 (what you really need to do natural light photos at night football).

Second off, give up on trying to use auto exposure at night football games. Switch to manual and set your exposure. You need to trick your camera. Turn off all that auto crap. Don't let your camera tell you it's too dark for a photo. If the exposures are dark, you can fix some things in pp. I have no experience with the D40 so I don't know if it's "foolproof" but check your manual and see if you can switch to full manual mode for exposure. Part of the problem with auto exposure at night football is that there is a very complex lighting situation. You've got the black sky, the extreme highlights of the field lights, white jerseys, dark jerseys, green field, stands with different colors...

The on camera flash won't do much good, but an SB600 or SB800 would work close up (50 feet or less), but the officials might not let you use flash so ask first.

Basically, you optimally need a lens with a 2.8 max f-stop. Or a camera which will let you go to 3200 or more iso.

Jerry

 

[hankejp]

I'd like to make a couple of comments. First off, looking at your photos, I would believe your shutter speed was more like 125 than 250. That's because when you rack your lenses out to their max, you are limited to 5.6--a full two stops smaller than 2.8 (what you really need to do natural light photos at night football).

Second off, give up on trying to use auto exposure at night football games. Switch to manual and set your exposure. You need to trick your camera. Turn off all that auto crap. Don't let your camera tell you it's too dark for a photo. If the exposures are dark, you can fix some things in pp. I have no experience with the D40 so I don't know if it's "foolproof" but check your manual and see if you can switch to full manual mode for exposure. Part of the problem with auto exposure at night football is that there is a very complex lighting situation. You've got the black sky, the extreme highlights of the field lights, white jerseys, dark jerseys, green field, stands with different colors...

The on camera flash won't do much good, but an SB600 or SB800 would work close up (50 feet or less), but the officials might not let you use flash so ask first.

Basically, you optimally need a lens with a 2.8 max f-stop. Or a camera which will let you go to 3200 or more iso.

Jerry

Thanks for the advice Jerry. I will definately have to try switching to Manual. I think the was the only option I didn't try. I don't shoot a lot of football games, but I am always looking for a better lens for the future. I have been looking at some lower f-stop lens's, but I need to save my pennies for them.

 

[Sw1tchFX]

Bring up the ISO to 3200, try your danrdest to get a hold of a faster telephoto lens, and underexpose about half a stop and push it in post. They'll be grainy as all get out, but they'll print 4x6 fine and at least you'll ba able to something besides the crowd.

 

[ths-acid]

Sorry I dont mean to grave dig threads but this it to wierd... Is this the DC Everest vs Wausau East Game? I played in it!!! I was the right offensive tackle for Wausau East, number 70, lol it is a small world!

But anyway back on subject... I am not sure what else I can tell ya, the pictures didn't turn out to bad, actually pretty good in my opionion, especially for a first time night shooting and all. Very nice job and keep it up!

 

[gsgary]

Hey Nick,

I tried all kinds of modes. The built in "Sports" modes, shutter priority, apeture priority, etc. I think it was just that my lens wouldn't go ver y low on the aperature and the lighting was bad. I would think that if I had a prime lens with f2.8 or so, they would've been a lot better. I just got back from a 7-8 grade football game during the day. They look a lot better on the camera. I've yet put them on the computer to look.

They would have been much better with F2.8 but your focus has to be spot on

 

[stsinner]

Bring up the ISO to 3200, .

On a D40? Really? That's awesome! I might have to buy one. How are they on noise?

Would a 50 1.8 be useless at a sporting event, or would it do okay? I know it wouldn't zoom, but you could crop pretty tight and seemingly get some good shots.

 

[gsgary]

On a D40? Really? That's awesome! I might have to buy one. How are they on noise?

Would a 50 1.8 be useless at a sporting event, or would it do okay? I know it wouldn't zoom, but you could crop pretty tight and seemingly get some good shots.

This is a Canon 50F1.8 on a 10D ISO1600@ F1.8 i was still running when i took this shot so i was very lucky but they will work if you are close to the action