Good outdoor portrait conditions?

[Christie Photo]

Pete

Would you consider a 50mm lens on a 1.6 crop camera equivalent to this?

Well... I was figuring for a crop sensor. I use a 100mm on my "full frame" camera.

I certainly would use the 50mm on a crop sensor for groups and full length individuals. But if I have the room, I'll go back to the longer lens.

-Pete

 

[Christie Photo]

.../get a large reflector with a black side. You don't want to get into pumping in light but you can manipulate the ratios by taking away light.

Yes... yes... that's a good approach: subtractive lighting. Rather than trying to add light, take away light to create some ratio.

That's sort of what I'm doing when I go to the edge of the tree line. I'm using the overhead leaves as a huge go-bo.

-Pete

 

[pbelarge]

Pete

Would you consider a 50mm lens on a 1.6 crop camera equivalent to this?

Well... I was figuring for a crop sensor. I use a 100mm on my "full frame" camera.

I certainly would use the 50mm on a crop sensor for groups and full length individuals. But if I have the room, I'll go back to the longer lens.

-Pete

Pete
Thanks for the quick response.

My wife wants me to shoot her kids later this morning. She is a teacher consultant, but this year took over a 3rd grade class and has grown very fond of the children.
I do not take many photos of people, so this will be interesting at the least to see the results.
I also have the 24-70 f/2.8L lens. So I could possible use this for the head shots, at the longer length?

 

[Christie Photo]

I also have the 24-70 f/2.8L lens. So I could possible use this for the head shots, at the longer length?

Absolutely.

I wish I had that lens. I could have used it this morning... shot an ag building and needed something in between my 40mm and my 100mm. I had to change the angle of view just a bit. Oh well.

-Pete

 

[NJMAN]

I've done a fair amount of outdoor portraiture.

Getting into the shade is a good start, but just a start.

If you work this way, there's no need for a flash fill because the shade IS the fill. What you'll need is a main. What I do is move to the edge of the shade... the edge where you find open sky. The sky will be the main.

Also, choose an area with NO direct sunlight... not even on the background. Direct sunlight will be MUCH brighter and MUCH warmer than the light on your subjects. Look too for a setting that is deep... 20 feet and up.

I wouldn't advise shooting any wider than f4.5 or so, especially with the kids. And use at lens at least 80mm long.

Good luck!

-Pete

Right on Pete! :thumbup:

I use 85mm f/1.8 on the full frame 5D, (very sharp lens for the money) and shoot between f2.8-5.0 depending on number of people. f2.8 or lower for single heads, and around 4.0-5.0 for 2 or more heads.

I don't shoot any wider than f2.8 unless I want to get more creative and isolate the eyes more. And I agree with no direct sunlight even in the background.

But if I cannot avoid direct sunlight and the subject wants it in the image, I have them turn their backs to the sun and use an angled reflector with bounced light from the sun or off-camera flash as the main light.