Harmonizing ambient light with OCF

[camz]

I don't think your over thinking it at all. It's pretty complicated to chart a process that eventually one who tries it comes up that the best approach is to do it in manual through trial and error. Above a lot of the guys mentioned a good starting point but it really depends on the look your going for(6 million looks/approaches).

This is how I've charted for the 580 EXII based on a certain look through alot of trial and error.

Look 1 (e.g. Shooting against the sun, colorful and vibrant)

High Noon : Camera: f11-14, 1/200, ISO100
Flash: 1/2 Power, Distance: 5ft @ 45 degrees Left/Right
Subjects: 2 max
Sunset/Sunrise: Camera: F4-5.6, 1/125. ISO100
Flash: 1/8 Power, Distance: 5ft @ 45degrees Left/Right
Subjects: 2 max

In the early days I charted each look as I did above based upon the controlled which was my equipment vs the time of day and the number of subjects until it was engraved in my thick skull. I think it's too difficult to just have one master chart.

The example I gave you above was the hardest to achieve for moi as it is during the harshest conditions(shooting against the sun). Hope that helps.

 

[gsgary]

In the end the easiest way is to get a flash meter

 

[Stradawhovious]

In the end the easiest way is to get a flash meter

Have you got a few hundred dollars to lend me?


Yep, on the wish list. Not in the near future though.

 

[camz]

In the end the easiest way is to get a flash meter

Memory synapses might a bit faster.

But a flash meter is a good place to start. It just doesn't deliver on the finished product.

 

[gsgary]

In the end the easiest way is to get a flash meter

Have you got a few hundred dollars to lend me?


Yep, on the wish list. Not in the near future though.

Ebay, minolta http://gsgary.smugmug.com/Street-Scenes/Street-Photography/Scan10006ps/702267616_LdQrG-L.jpg

 

[kundalini]

Fresh off the Flash Bus Tour this week and ready to snap some small flashes. Is this what you want?.

What about outdoors? What about just using OCF for fill, to get the correct exposure of nice blue skies and a backlit subject?

Don't expect miracles, but I'll have a go at it.

 

[Robin Usagani]

I need to master this. I mostly only do on camera flash outdoor. Results are amazingly good if you dont use that much flash power. Almost as good as using a reflector.

 

[Stradawhovious]

Fresh off the Flash Bus Tour this week and ready to snap some small flashes. Is this what you want?.

What about outdoors? What about just using OCF for fill, to get the correct exposure of nice blue skies and a backlit subject?

Don't expect miracles, but I'll have a go at it.

Any hep or advice is good help or advice. :thumbup:

 

[gsgary]

In the end the easiest way is to get a flash meter

Memory synapses might a bit faster.

But a flash meter is a good place to start. It just doesn't deliver on the finished product.

Of course it does, once i have my ambient reading i can set my flashes to what effect i want quickly no trial and error

 

[gsgary]

Fresh off the Flash Bus Tour this week and ready to snap some small flashes. Is this what you want?.

What about outdoors? What about just using OCF for fill, to get the correct exposure of nice blue skies and a backlit subject?

Don't expect miracles, but I'll have a go at it.

Any hep or advice is good help or advice. :thumbup:

This is on camera flash aimed directly at subject

 

[Village Idiot]

Depending on the conditions, you can also use the sun as rim lighting, backlighting, and other types of light.

 

[kundalini]

DISCLAIMER: I had in-depth discussions with my friend, Jose, after work. These are test shots only. No monkeys were harmed during this shoot. No editing was performed. Okay, let me backup just a second. I did shoot a grey card and sync'd the WB and camera/lens profiles in LR3.


I'm not sure if these will fit the bill Dan, but I went on a hunch.

All shots of Winston taken with a D300 and 50mm f/1.8 lens.

First things first, shoot a grey card.

With Spot Metering, the camera read f/7.1 @ 1/200s (Manual shooting mode)

At a SWAG, I set the flash power (SB800) to 1/4 power

... A bit too harsh, don't you think? Adjusted down to 1/8 power​

A bit better.
Setup for the bare fill flash

I lied because the fill flash used was actually on camera left. ​

Leaving the fill on camera left, I added a 24" softbox at 45° camera left. However, I decided to use a hand held light meter... f/10, you say..... , well then​

Fill still at 1/8 power and key at 1/4 power

Setup of Softbox.... I had to quit because of the wind.​

Winston thanks you for your indulgence ​

 

[Stradawhovious]

^^^ Holy ****! Ask and I shall receive, eh?

Looks very doable, but then again, you make all kinds of things look easy. Thanks for going that extra mile for me!

I can't wait to try it for myself.

Maybe tomorrow.

One can only hope.....

 

[kundalini]

^^^ Holy ****! Ask and I shall receive, eh?.....

hehehe..... just messing about. It was more for me than you, but you gave a good reason to go ahead with the idea. A lot of the $hit I shoot is for my learning purposes only. If some of it rubs off, that makes me happy. Otherwise, I still shoot the stupid $hit that helps me learn a bit.

 

[camz]

In the end the easiest way is to get a flash meter

Memory synapses might a bit faster.

But a flash meter is a good place to start. It just doesn't deliver on the finished product.

Of course it does, once i have my ambient reading i can set my flashes to what effect i want quickly no trial and error

Right...so it is a good starting point. The finished effect can not be done by the flash meter...that's based on your experience and taste especially
with the creative shots.

Edit: I guess I should clear up that this is based on my shooting style...it may vary with you gsgary.