HDR Bracketing and ISO Question

RÅW

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I have couple of questions to ask, so hopefully someone can shed some light on the issue.

Question # 1: If I use a lower ISO when it's a little darker the shutter takes a little bit more time to close and open correct? So if i have shaky hands then the image will come out blurry right? So I would need to increase me ISO to make the shutter close and open quicker so there would be no less blur correct? Well is there a good ISO number that would be good for dark surroundings and lighted surroundings? Or is the general rule of thumb when in a dark area use 500+ and in a lighted area use 100-500?

Question # 2 [Bracketing Question]: What is the difference in using AE & Flash and AE? Is AE the best option for bracketing?

Question # 3 [Bracketing Question]: I noticed some cameras have an option to shoot more frames but on my camera [NIKON D7000] I can only shoot 3 Frames. But I read it was better to shoot multiple frames. Is that really necessary? If so does anyone know if there is a way to shoot more than 3 Frames on the D7000? And is 3 Frames @ 1.00 the right setting for HDR Bracketing?

Sorry for all the questions.
 
RÅW;2126494 said:
I have couple of questions to ask, so hopefully someone can shed some light on the issue.

Question # 1: If I use a lower ISO when it's a little darker the shutter takes a little bit more time to close and open correct? So if i have shaky hands then the image will come out blurry right? So I would need to increase me ISO to make the shutter close and open quicker so there would be no less blur correct? Well is there a good ISO number that would be good for dark surroundings and lighted surroundings? Or is the general rule of thumb when in a dark area use 500+ and in a lighted area use 100-500?

Question # 2 [Bracketing Question]: What is the difference in using AE & Flash and AE? Is AE the best option for bracketing?

Question # 3 [Bracketing Question]: I noticed some cameras have an option to shoot more frames but on my camera [NIKON D7000] I can only shoot 3 Frames. But I read it was better to shoot multiple frames. Is that really necessary? If so does anyone know if there is a way to shoot more than 3 Frames on the D7000? And is 3 Frames @ 1.00 the right setting for HDR Bracketing?

Sorry for all the questions.

For your first question. For darker setting you can either raise the ISO or you could also use a lower f-stop number. This will increase the size of the opening in the lense which will let in more light. If you use a larger ISO it will increase the noise. Most of the cameras can produce an image up to a relatively high ISO without noticable noise. You should be fine using anything below 1000. Im not to sure on the D7000 capabilities though. I cant help with the 2nd question. For the third the range depends on the scene. It depends on the lighting and how much of a difference there is between the shadows and highlights.
 
RÅW;2126494 said:
Question # 1: If I use a lower ISO when it's a little darker the shutter takes a little bit more time to close and open correct?
Assuming the lens aperture hasn't been changed, and the lighting of the scene is still the same, yes.

RÅW;2126494 said:
So if i have shaky hands then the image will come out blurry right?
Maybe! It would depend on the shutter speed. That and quality multiple bracketed exposures can really only be made with the camera on a good and steady tripod.

RÅW;2126494 said:
So I would need to increase me ISO to make the shutter close and open quicker so there would be no less blur correct?
Again, maybe.

RÅW;2126494 said:
Well is there a good ISO number that would be good for dark surroundings and lighted surroundings? Or is the general rule of thumb when in a dark area use 500+ and in a lighted area use 100-500?
How dark, how light, and at what lens aperture. Exposure is controlled by 3 settings.

RÅW;2126494 said:
Question # 2 [Bracketing Question]: What is the difference in using AE & Flash and AE? Is AE the best option for bracketing?
For HDR work you do not want to vary the lens aperture when bracketing, so the DOF is the same for each bracketed exposure. AE & flash bracketing is used if you are also using strobed (flash) light. Use AE when you're not adding strobed light to a scene.

RÅW;2126494 said:
Question # 3 [Bracketing Question]: I noticed some cameras have an option to shoot more frames but on my camera [NIKON D7000] I can only shoot 3 Frames. But I read it was better to shoot multiple frames. Is that really necessary? If so does anyone know if there is a way to shoot more than 3 Frames on the D7000? And is 3 Frames @ 1.00 the right setting for HDR Bracketing?
Though the D7000 will redefine the category, it is still an entry-level camera and thus can only do 3 AEB. Nikon's prosumer and pro bodies can do 9 AEB.

Exposure bracketing can be done manually. With the camera in Aperture Priority or Manual mode, make the bracket steps needed by changing only the shutter speed.

As cletusjermal mentioned, to make an HDR of a scene usually requires more than just 3 bracketed exposures. Three is the minimum needed to make a true HDR, but only 3 bracketed exposures usually isn't enough to makle a good HDR.

One of the skills required to make a good HDR is knowing how to use the in-camera light meter to evaluate a scene and determine the number and EV steps needed to make a quality HDR image.
 

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