HDR

gendarmee

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I just adjust the exposure and only the exposure.. Order doesnt matter when loading it into the HDR merge... it will figure it out.

I would just go put it in P mode, get 3-5 shots at different exposures, merge it.. and work on it from there.
 
you can look at this link for more information:

http://www.hdrsoft.com/resources/dri.html

You can also download the trial version software from the site and test out for yourself (it's has full use capability except you will have a watermark on your outputs). This software is much easier to use than PS.
 
You will need to shoot in Av mode because you do not want to change DoF. Changing shutter speed to get over or under exposure is the way to go.

"pp" stands for "post processing". It means adjusting white balance, color etc. tweaking your out of camera shot to get what you want.
 
I the Metered snap was at F 4.5, 1/500, so i took two more pics. one at 1/400 and another at 1/640. all pics were taken using a table foe support and not a tripod.
those are not full stop differences, so there really isn't enough change in exposure to make a good HDR.
 
I just tried.
I took all the snaps, at ISO 100 in manual mode keeping the F constant and varying the aperture, in RAW mode.
The results were not anybetter than metered snap.
I the Metered snap was at F 4.5, 1/500, so i took two more pics. one at 1/400 and another at 1/640. all pics were taken using a table foe support and not a tripod.


The F number is the aperture. It sounds like you kept the aperture constant and varied the shutter speed.
-> is there any free ware for HDR?

I'm not sure if this is "true HDR" but I found this tutorial for the GIMP: http://www.instructables.com/id/HDR-photos-with-the-GIMP/. I haven't tried it yet though so I can't guarantee anything...

->Is is good if I take a contrasty scene for HDR?
Well I think that's the entire point of HDR. If the scene has more contrast then your sensor can handle then you employ HDR to get a broader range. If your sensor can pick up detail in the brightest and darkest points of your image then their is no point in using HDR in the first place.

gendarmee said:
If I'm at the same place again, can you suggest how I go about taking the pics? as in, the stop difference. I'm still unsure about how to go about it.
From what I've read, you should try bracketing 1 stop underexposed and 1 stop overexposed (+/- 1 EV).
 
doesn't look like there is that great of a dynamic range in your picture that would constitute shooting an HDR of it.
You use HDR when there are highlights, shadows, and everything in between. If you set you exposure at say an f2.8 for the shadows in the foreground then the sunny sky and trees in the background would be blown out so bracketing (using HDR) allows you to capture all of the detail in the varying light conditions of the image.
 
Thats the precise info about it i was wanting to know, I've read about how to do it at 4-5 places but they don't elaborate on the scene selection.
And I thought any scene can be made to look a lot different using HDR.Thanks for the explanation.
I read somewhere that it give chrome a nice effect, was rearing to give it a try with my bike but couldn't wait, so tried it with this coin to see what the effect would be like..


Someone on here did one on his old bike and the final result looked awesome!!! A few other people gave it a shot and theirs came out really well too. You're right, the chrome looked pretty neat when done correctly. If you do a HDR search you will probably pull it up. It was posted maybe a month and a half ago .
 
Does your camera support bracketing? I know nothing about Canons. If it does, use that - all you do is tell the camera how many stops over and under (and various other compinations) you want to do and it will do it - at least it is that easy on a D80 from Nikon. Dunno how feature rich that G9 is going to be.

Oh and please do not use "P" mode to do this. All that does is adjust the shutter speed and aperture - it will achieve a fine exposure, but will NOT be useful for what you are trying to do here.
 
You need contrast in your scenes, Both those images aren't contrasty enough.
 
You need something where the scene cannot cover all the highlights and all the shadows in a single exposure.

Fog is not good for this, try it at high noon on a sunny day, you'll know what i mean, clouds will be blown out, shadows will be black.
 
I'm sorry, but people have told you a million times that the scene you are shooting does not have anywhere near enough contrast to neccessitate a HDR, yet you still insist on taking the same scene!

Your camera can easily capture the dynamic range, so there is no need to make a HIGH dynamic range image of that scene.

Find a different scene, one where, by adjusting aperture, you can EITHER capture the foreground details and blow out the sky, or shillouette the foreground details and capture just the sky. THAT is a scene suitable for HDR.

Find an aperture that suits you but KEEP IT THE SAME for all photos, and use exposure bias to uver/under expose by a few stops.
 
i think you are missing the key point over and over...

you need a scene where there is a range of exposure points...

like someone mentioned, 12:noon one shot exposed for the sky, one for the object and one as close as possible for both

there will be a RANGE of light that will be merge-able....
 
You can't just toss your "shots" into a photo-editing program and expect it to come out popping like other HDR attempts. A lot of these HDR shots are HEAVILY post processed to a level that demands an understanding beyond "browse to folder with files" to pull out some of the HDR magic out there.

Look for an abandoned building (or hell a building period). Just SOMETHING where everything isn't flat from one corner to another.
 

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