Aknight0053 said:
Using cannon rebel t3 and lens is 18-55
Please, do not let that tie you to Canon...the 18-55 lens is nothing to allow yourself to be a slave to Canon...Buy yourself a one-generation back Nikon in your price range. It will have a better sensor than any Canon has, and be a better camera too. You say ypu do not want to "spend 800$ now and then yr or two down the road wish I had purchased better camera." Simple--don't buy another low-performing Canon.
So while it's true that the EF-S 18-55mm is nothing fabulous (the whole point of most kit lenses is to be "affordable" and that's true of the Nikon kit lenses as well)... the camera BODY comes in last-place as to what influence the quality of a photo.
#1 -- The photographer's skill (I trust nobody on this forum will attempt to argue this point.)
#2 -- The lighting. While one could argue that the lens selection is #2... I think lighting has a greater influence. It doesn't matter how good the lens is if the lighting is awful. But if the lighting is great, the image can look impressive even if the lens is marginal.
#3 -- The lens... and while I normally don't care what brand camera people have... this is where Nikon falls apart. One of the most popular lenses that any event photographer (including weddings) will have in their bag is a 70-200mm f/2.8 zoom. Most even and wedding photographers own one. Every lens manufacturer makes one... sort of.
Lenses "breathe" as you focus meaning that the true focal length of the lens changes as you focus the lens. Generally you get the advertised focal length when the lens is focused to infinity. But as you focus closer, the focal length is reduced. Lenses round off everything... focal length, f-stops, etc. if you do the math, almost no lens is true to the numbers on the lens barrel. But if they're within 5% then it's considered close enough. One might even argue that 10% is close enough.
The Nikon 70-200... when focused to a subject at close distance (something you'd want to do to create a blurred background) is only about 135mm. That's a rather significant breathing problem. The third party options also have breathing problems -- just not as severe as Nikon. Most of them drop to about 150mm.
The Canon 70-200... drops to about 190mm (it's within 5%) and it's the only 70-200mm on the market that can do this. Also the Canon is quite sharp at the 200mm end whereas the Nikon 70-200 goes soft.
Tony Northrup did a video on this. He used to shoot with Canon... then fell in love with the Nikon D810 body... so he switched to Nikon. Then he started to discover problems with Nikon glass (specifically lenses in the focal lengths that portrait and wedding photographers use the most), so he started trying out the 3rd party (Sigma, Tamron, etc.) glass... and discovered he couldn't use a Nikon camera body and not have lens problems. And since lens has a much stronger influence on the look of your images than the camera body... he switched BACK to Canon again. Nikon has the better "body", but Canon has the better "glass" and... for this category, it turns out the glass wins.
#4 -- The body. This comes in last place. It will have less influence over the quality of your images than anything else.
If I were doing events, I'd want a camera body and lens combination that can deal with low-light. I'd also want good supplemental lighting and light modifiers. Typically full-frame sensors tend to be better in low light then crop-frame sensors (it's not an absolute... but it's easier to keep noise down when the individual photo-sites on the sensor surface are physically larger.)
At an entry-level, a Canon 6D body with the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM II and the EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM II would be outstanding (but those lenses aren't cheap.) There are a few prime lenses that are also desirable -- mostly because they can offer particularly low focal ratios and generate a very large amount of background blur. But you have to use extreme care when shooting at very low focal ratios because the depth of field is so narrow that it's very easy to miss focus (safer to use low focal ratios when you're doing a session in which you can control the pace and don't have to shoot in a hurry and can take the time to make sure you've nailed the focus.)
In the end... is the choice a really big deal? I don't think so. And I say this because as I look around, I see a lot of great images coming from photographers regardless of what camera brand they shoot. If you nit-pick, you'll find advantages to either depending on what you're trying to do... but noting wins in every category.