Get out of the sun. Set your camera to manual and meter for the light on her face. This will get you started in the right direction.
Good, serious advice from texkam. Shooting in a large area that is shaded from SUN-light, but which has a broad expanse of light from the SKY, will create big, sparkly catchlights on the tops of the eyeballs if people are faced toward the bright area of SKY-light. Set the in-camera White Balance control to the "Shade" setting, or in Manual white balance setting mode, somewhere around, I am gonna say, 6500 Degrees Kelvin (aka
6,500 K) as a starting point--to be evaluated as the session is started,and as it goes on.
It looks to me like that shooter on Facebook is using two or three different Lightroom or Photoshop CS "
actions", which make the images look the way they do quite quickly.
Now, as texkam told you, one of the keys is WHERE the shots are made. Working in what is called "open shade" is a very good way to be a natural-light shooter who uses simple pre-sets in Lightroom, or CS, or other software, to modify the look of the images, fast and reliably and easily. Open shade as I have described it above, is fairly even lighting, and low in contrast. It's easy to work in. People will not squint. All plusses for them,you,and for the processing software and what can easily be done, without a lot of heroics or rescuing of sucky images.
If you are shooting in JPEG capture mode, make sure to look at the white balance setting and what kind of results it is giving. I am suggesting the 6,500 K as a
starting point. You might very well want to move that, either up, or down. As sunset nears, do not be surprised to see the need for 7,500, then 7,800, then even ridiculous #s like 9,000 K.