help with shooting manual.

chloewindle1

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Hi everyone,

I just want a few tips shooting manual really, here's a few pics I've taken using manual mode..... $1009306_475717592516682_1849484272_o.jpg$1015569_478189638936144_1315993084_o.jpg I'm really happy with the way they turned out. My question is, can you fully explain what I need to do to shoot crisp pictures in low light situations? I bump up the ISO to around 800 and the shutter speed is lower but obviously will cause more motion blur? I just struggle to remember about all the settings. I forget about setting the aperture ect. These are examples of photos I took a few evening's back. (they were brightened up on PS CS5) $131309_660642847287384_1517897031_o.jpg$1237385_660644660620536_656057090_o.jpg

Thank you.
 
***** sorry forgot to add, I have the Nikon d5100 and shoot with the nikkor 70-300mm lens *****
 
Have a speedlight?

The one shot I tried to read the EXIF, and it's gone.

Could you post the EXIF, or at least the particulars of aperture and shutter speed, please?
 
My advice would be to stick with one of the automatic modes (full-auto, aperture priority, or shutter priority) until you CAN remember to set the aperture. You HAVE to remember how aperture, shutter, and ISO relate to each other before you will ever be able to successfully use manual mode.

The 70-300 is not a fast lens and you're going to have to compensate for lost light using a proper combination of ISO, shutter and aperture. How you combine those three is up to you, but they must be balanced or you will get the underexposure that you are seeing.
 
A challenge in taking pictures in low light is that the camera is recording light, so it starts pushing the limits of what a camera can do when you lose light later in the day. It can seem brighter to our eyes than the camera may read it.

With manual settings my starting point is usually f8 and 1/125 at ISO 100-200 in daylight outdoors and 400 indoors, then I adjust from there depending on what the meter is indicating. If there isn't enough light coming in to the camera then I'd need to open up the lens and go to a larger aperture like f1.4, 2.8 (in that range); and/or use a slower shutter speed. I usually don't set it slower than 1/60 but it depends on what works for you (how slow the shutter can be moving and still be able to keep the camera steady enough to get a sharp enough image).

In lower light as you seem to know, raising the ISO (which is a measurement of light sensitivity) can enable you to shoot in lower light but the tradeoff can be losing some sharpness or quality. It's a matter of adjusting the combination of aperture, shutter speed, and ISO til your meter indicates you're getting the amount of light needed (a proper exposure).

I usually use prime lenses that have aperture settings to f1.8 or 2.8 etc. You could use the largest aperture your lens has and raise the ISO, then determine how slow a shutter speed is still manageable for you, to get photos in low light. If you still aren't getting the quality of photos you want it might be worth considering another lens (which can often be found used).
 
Thank you, i'm getting the hang of it, there's just so much to it especially when you shoot (not literally) horses with different movements ect.
 
Don't give up. When I first started shooting in manual I would just get all confused and have to put it in auto until I got my bearings again.
It will all come together.
You get into a rhythm of checking ISO, Shutter (the exposure meter), Aperture and WB (if not auto). And that will come in time.

Review your pictures, like here, and figure out how to improve. I thought I knew the exposure triangle, but knowing it and then using it was two different things. Keep shooting and thinking of how to improve. And don't worry about experimenting, taking a picture of something still and varying the aperture, or shutter, or ISO and seeing the variations until you get it right.
 
I think it takes practice. I've done sports and events and it involves getting the hang of the timing. I try to go early; it can work for me to get the camera set and frame some shots and see what I'm getting in the viewfinder (maybe during warmups or before a particular participant will be coming up). I might focus on the fence (I use goal posts or lines etc. anything with an edge to it) and anticipate when someone will be coming into view, then adjust focus and framing as needed. You got some nice daytime shots so you seem to be able to frame shots well (I particularly like the second one).
 
thank you everyone, will post a few pics during the week!
 
One thing you may want to look at and practice with is your focusing modes. When shooting my kids soccer I find that being in AP-C mode and at least 9 points on my Nikon D7000 helps the focus on the moving subject. Then I usually move the focus point to the side they are running from and it helps alot, and at times using focus lock. That took practice too to add focus adjustment to my photography but my pictures on the subjects are sharper now.
 

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