How do I take good shots of sports?

[rexbobcat]

Also understand that it's harder to freeze motion at slower speeds with longer lenses. At 70mm I can freeze motion at about 1/125th or 1/200th of a second, but at 400mm I would need over 1/500th of a second.

 

[gsgary]

I have found a panning shot from years ago with my old 10D shot at 1/60 with 50F1.8 @ F4, so should not be a problem with XS

 

[sidigirl]

These three phots were taken with my 70-300 zoom, which is what I use most of the time at races, with a fast shutter speed. I didn't write down what setting I used, the camera was on auto everything.

 

[Joshonator]

Also understand that it's harder to freeze motion at slower speeds with longer lenses. At 70mm I can freeze motion at about 1/125th or 1/200th of a second, but at 400mm I would need over 1/500th of a second.

True in most cases btw only if the subject is far away, if you're filling the frame with a wide angle lens the speed will have to be just as fast.

 

[Solarflare]

Err ... I fail to see why you have to be faster to "freeze action". That just makes no sense at all.

If you use a tripod (plus maybe a cable release/remote control, and a mirror fixed, so the camera doesnt vibrate from it), you could always use the same shutter speed, no matter the focal length. This is the shutter speed you need to not get blurr from the movement of your subject. As long as you have the same frame (such as full body with some extra), this will stay constant. Only if you get closer you'll have to be even faster.

However, the problem with longer lenses is that you are more likely to blurr the picture yourself through movement of your hand. Thats why there is this rule "Handheld shutter speed must be at least about as fast as your focal length, assuming you use all techniques necessary to hold the camera still". Which does NOT just apply to action sports, but to really ANYTHING.

And which is broken for example by the new Nikon D800, because resolution is so high you have to add even more shutter speed if you use the camera handheld.

Use of a tripod, use of a monopod, use of natural supports, image stabilization/optical stabilization/vibration reduction/however else you want to call the camera automatic in question all serve the purpose to reduce blurr caused by holding the camera with your hand.

 

[gsgary]

Also understand that it's harder to freeze motion at slower speeds with longer lenses. At 70mm I can freeze motion at about 1/125th or 1/200th of a second, but at 400mm I would need over 1/500th of a second.

Ill post a shot taken at 600mm (no IS) later of a motorbike doing about 80mph @ 1/320 and it is pin sharp

 

[gsgary]

Also understand that it's harder to freeze motion at slower speeds with longer lenses. At 70mm I can freeze motion at about 1/125th or 1/200th of a second, but at 400mm I would need over 1/500th of a second.

600mm 1/320 F9