How do you get a better macro experience?

Phot

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I have a Nikon P90 and when I macro I have to constantly take the picture, then look at the picture zoomed in, then adjust......Rinse and reapeat a dozen times. So are there tricks to getting the highest quality macro your digital camera can produce? Without having to move back and forth a dozen times? And even on that not, there seems to be sections of the macro feature that I just can't tell which is better. My eyes seem to top out and I find myself just just a zone somehwere in the middle that looks best. But move the focuse up and down by a few clicks just doesn't seem to make a difference.

Oh, and please don't tell me about the manual that says bring it to just within the blue highlighted setting. It does not give the best macro. From what I can see at least.


Edit: For the Picture...............
DSCN1829.jpg
 
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Dao

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What kind of subject are you taking in your macro photos?
 

luvmyfamily

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Whereever Cgipson is, he does some awesome Macro shots, so I hope he sees this. He is the expert om this.
 

pgriz

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"macro" with a P&S is really closeup, not macro. While you can get pretty good closeups, you will have a difficult time approaching the image quality that a proper SLR/DSLR setup will give you. On the other hand, maybe you have a different set of expectations in mind. What are you trying to photograph in the Macro setting, and can you show us some of the images to see what you are talking about?
 

cgipson1

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Whereever Cgipson is, he does some awesome Macro shots, so I hope he sees this. He is the expert om this.

There are a lot of people here that are good at macro! :)

As pgriz mentioned... your biggest limitation is your camera. You cannot do true macro with most point' n 'shoots... they typically don't allow adequate magnification, or lighting control. I agree that if you post some shots, we will be able to make better suggestions.
 

luvmyfamily

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Whereever Cgipson is, he does some awesome Macro shots, so I hope he sees this. He is the expert om this.

There are a lot of people here that are good at macro! :)

As pgriz mentioned... your biggest limitation is your camera. You cannot do true macro with most point' n 'shoots... they typically don't allow adequate magnification, or lighting control. I agree that if you post some shots, we will be able to make better suggestions.

yes, there are, but I looked at your last, so you were the first person that popped in my head, lol.
 
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Phot

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Why are people saying I don't have Macro? My camera is a Nikon P90 and in the manual it says it has Macro. Also online I could find no reference to the Macro term being a term falsely used in the Nikon P90. Just trying to learn here.

For those asking about what I am taking pictures of for macro. Objects like shoes, or backpacks, knives, pens, flashlights, etc.. Things with depth, and are also stationary. Though I am also trying to learn how to take better pictures of myself and people in general, but I don't use macro for people.

My question to drive back on point, is how do I get a higher detailed image, and at the same time reduce the amount of time I need to get maxim macro focus?

DSCN1829.jpg
 

cgipson1

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Try an take a picture of a grain of rice.. like this:

RICE-DOF.jpg



That is MACRO.....

Your point' n ' shoot has limited manual focus ability (if any)! Almost all macro shots are done in manual focus.. because most Autofocus doesn't do well with Macro!

You also need better lighting.. flash.. or better ambient light!
 
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LightSpeed

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Whereever Cgipson is, he does some awesome Macro shots, so I hope he sees this. He is the expert om this.

Isn't this wonderful. Gipson gets first billing.
How much did you pay her Gipson?
 

LightSpeed

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Why are people saying I don't have Macro? My camera is a Nikon P90 and in the manual it says it has Macro. Also online I could find no reference to the Macro term being a term falsely used in the Nikon P90. Just trying to learn here.

For those asking about what I am taking pictures of for macro. Objects like shoes, or backpacks, knives, pens, flashlights, etc.. Things with depth, and are also stationary. Though I am also trying to learn how to take better pictures of myself and people in general, but I don't use macro for people.

My question to drive back on point, is how do I get a higher detailed image, and at the same time reduce the amount of time I need to get maxim macro focus?

DSCN1829.jpg

The main problem I see here is absence of light.
The point and shoot and gonna cut the mustard in true macro photography.
As Guru Gipson pointed out.

Your point and shoot may say " macro" but I doubt it's true 1:1 macro, such is the case with a true 1:1 macro lens.



EDIT: It appears I may be wrong about this.
The P90 specs seems to indicate that the camera CAN focus as close as 1 centimeter.
And 1:1 format, with its 24x zoom. CORRECTION: The 1:1 format has nothing to do with 1:1 macro.
I must be missing something because usually closest focusing distance of macro lenses are measured from subject to the sensor and one centimeter doesn't seem right.
 
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Overread

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Before we get confused further the official definition of macro is when the lens reflects an image onto the camera sensor at the same size as the subject is in real life.
This gives a macro ratio of 1:1 or:
Size of subject reflected on the sensor by the lens : size of the subject in real life.

Most cameras will have a statement of their maximum magnifiaction ratio in their profile specifications, but you can also work it out yourself easily. Just take a straight on photo of a ruler and then compare the amount of mm you capture in the shot against the size of the sensor. For the P90 its 6.16 mm x 4.62mm in size.
If its capable of a "true macro" shot you would be able to get 6.16mm on a ruler along the horizontal line (ie longest side) of the photo.
Note that magnification and "macro" status has nothing directly to do with how close you can put the camera to the subject (its a part of things, but not part of the definition).



Now that aside the question of quality, depth and focusing. Here you camera is somewhat the limit since most of these cameras have poor manual focusing options. The best is to set the focus manually to the closest focusing possible and then physically move the camera closer and further from the subject to place the focus where you want it (this is also how one focuses macro with DSLRs as well).
Failing that good lighting and the cameras auto focus would have to suffice.

As for quality and depth - work on good lighting first and foremost. That helps ensure good clarity in the photo, furthermore it will let you use smaller apertures (bigger f numbers) so that you can get a bigger depth of field in the photo (though note the biggest apertures might result in detail softening to play around and see what the different apertures give you).
 

LightSpeed

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Before we get confused further the official definition of macro is when the lens reflects an image onto the camera sensor at the same size as the subject is in real life.
This gives a macro ratio of 1:1 or:
Size of subject reflected on the sensor by the lens : size of the subject in real life.

Most cameras will have a statement of their maximum magnifiaction ratio in their profile specifications, but you can also work it out yourself easily. Just take a straight on photo of a ruler and then compare the amount of mm you capture in the shot against the size of the sensor. For the P90 its 6.16 mm x 4.62mm in size.
If its capable of a "true macro" shot you would be able to get 6.16mm on a ruler along the horizontal line (ie longest side) of the photo.
Note that magnification and "macro" status has nothing directly to do with how close you can put the camera to the subject (its a part of things, but not part of the definition).



Now that aside the question of quality, depth and focusing. Here you camera is somewhat the limit since most of these cameras have poor manual focusing options. The best is to set the focus manually to the closest focusing possible and then physically move the camera closer and further from the subject to place the focus where you want it (this is also how one focuses macro with DSLRs as well).
Failing that good lighting and the cameras auto focus would have to suffice.

As for quality and depth - work on good lighting first and foremost. That helps ensure good clarity in the photo, furthermore it will let you use smaller apertures (bigger f numbers) so that you can get a bigger depth of field in the photo (though note the biggest apertures might result in detail softening to play around and see what the different apertures give you).

And there you have it.
And she gave Gipson first billing.
I still say she got paid off.

lol
 

luvmyfamily

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Before we get confused further the official definition of macro is when the lens reflects an image onto the camera sensor at the same size as the subject is in real life.
This gives a macro ratio of 1:1 or:
Size of subject reflected on the sensor by the lens : size of the subject in real life.

Most cameras will have a statement of their maximum magnifiaction ratio in their profile specifications, but you can also work it out yourself easily. Just take a straight on photo of a ruler and then compare the amount of mm you capture in the shot against the size of the sensor. For the P90 its 6.16 mm x 4.62mm in size.
If its capable of a "true macro" shot you would be able to get 6.16mm on a ruler along the horizontal line (ie longest side) of the photo.
Note that magnification and "macro" status has nothing directly to do with how close you can put the camera to the subject (its a part of things, but not part of the definition).



Now that aside the question of quality, depth and focusing. Here you camera is somewhat the limit since most of these cameras have poor manual focusing options. The best is to set the focus manually to the closest focusing possible and then physically move the camera closer and further from the subject to place the focus where you want it (this is also how one focuses macro with DSLRs as well).
Failing that good lighting and the cameras auto focus would have to suffice.

As for quality and depth - work on good lighting first and foremost. That helps ensure good clarity in the photo, furthermore it will let you use smaller apertures (bigger f numbers) so that you can get a bigger depth of field in the photo (though note the biggest apertures might result in detail softening to play around and see what the different apertures give you).

And there you have it.
And she gave Gipson first billing.
I still say she got paid off.

lol

LOL, I have seen some wonderful macro shots from all you macro fans, seriously, I just saw his yesterday and he popped in my head first :lmao:
 

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