How many prints can you get off a negative?

We had a longtime camera shop in my area til the owner several years ago retired and went out of business. When I started doing darkroom printing he told me a guideline for a starting point with the enlarger was either f8 and 11 seconds, or f11 and 8 seconds. I find that works most of the time and then I adjust from there.

I usually go with f8 and 11 seconds because like Sparky was saying, it gives you more time. I find it gives me 2-3 seconds to dodge some detail out of a darker area, or a few sec.to burn in a corner that got too light.
 
But why does the aperture and exposure matter in a dark room after the photograph has been taken?
This is two completely different procedures and completely different pieces of equipment. The camera exposes the film, which makes negatives. Then, the enlarger shines light through the negative onto print paper (kind of like film in that it is light sensitive) to make the print(s). While they each have a lens, and adjustable apertures, they are doing completely different operations. In different locations, and often by different people.

I hope we're not being punked.
 
@Shutterpug Are you asking because you're just curious, or because you would like to learn how to do this yourself? If it is the former, then the video just gives an overview so you can understand the gist of what happens in wet printing. If you'd like to learn how to do it yourself, then I would suggest taking a few steps back and learn how to use the camera first before worrying about printing.
 
But why does the aperture and exposure matter in a dark room after the photograph has been taken?
This is two completely different procedures and completely different pieces of equipment. The camera exposes the film, which makes negatives. Then, the enlarger shines light through the negative onto print paper (kind of like film in that it is light sensitive) to make the print(s). While they each have a lens, and adjustable apertures, they are doing completely different operations. In different locations, and often by different people.

I hope we're not being punked.

Agreed on that sentiment.
 
I hope we're not being punked either. I hate when that happens.
 
No, and not catfished either... at least I hope!

I rewatched the video and of course someone can only do so much in a short demo. I learned to wear rubber gloves; some people don't, but you're sticking your hands in chemicals so I do when mixing chemistry, and I use tongs. Make sure there's good ventilation.

Techniques I learned and use - slide/glide the paper into each tray of chemistry/water and handle gently with the tongs along edges. Have tongs for each tray - especially the developer or you could leave black marks on your paper/prints. When you put the photo paper back in the envelope or box make sure it's in the black plastic/paper and that it's closed to keep it light tight. Dust the enlarger lens periodically. (Dust in the darkroom is the enemy!)

I realized why he said 'stop down' - to focus you have to open the lens all the way, and focus visually. Then you use a grain scope to fine tune your focus (didn't show that in the video). Then you reset and 'stop down' back to your determined exposure aperture (in the video it was f8).

There's a process to determine exposure; basically you do test strips at a chosen aperture. Precut strips of your photo paper. Do exposures for example at f8 for 5-10-15-20-25 seconds - you cover most of the test strip with a piece of cardboard and move it an inch or so each 5 second interval. Then you develop that strip and see what exposure time looks good. (Or you'd see if you're way off and need to reset the aperture and do another test strip).

Do an entire test strip at the exposure time that looks best (say 11 sec.). You're looking to get a 'black' black and a 'white' white. Then if that looks good do a print. Otherwise you waste paper. Sometimes I'd get to the point that I had to do a half sheet or just go ahead and do an 8x10 to see what I had.

I used to use a shared darkroom at a local university which since got renovated and I haven't done printing recently. But I got to be a pretty good darkroom rat. If you ever have a chance to try it that might be a good way to see how you like it.
 
You seem totally immersed with a desire to jump into photography with both feet. Used film cameras are relatively inexpensive. I suggest you do some research, including this site, pick up a film camera and take a beginning film class at a community college or adult school. I don't know what is available in Mississippi, but a class in film would give you a solid foundation of photography plus give you a hands on experience in camera settings, film exposure, development and printing.
 
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You might also want to pick up copies of the Ansel Adam's book trilogy: The Camera, The Negative and The Print.
 
I've been meaning to hunt mine out and reread them (not that I ever read all of them in the first place). I didn't quite understand it and now I think I'd get a lot more out of those books.
 
I see from your profile that your are a 117 year old male. It is good that you still have what it takes to take up a new hobby like photography..............lol
 
I see from your profile that your are a 117 year old male. It is good that you still have what it takes to take up a new hobby like photography..............lol
Never too old to learn yungin'.
 
A lab I worked at in the 90's we used to print 4000 4x6's a year for 6 years from one neg for a university here in St. Louis. Each year the neg would get lighter and lose a bit of color. By the 6th year the neg had faded so bad I could not print it anymore.
 
So assuming that I DONT print 4000 pictures a year and keep the negatives in a cool dry environment they will last until greybeards beard turns white? Or even longer.
 
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So assuming that I DONT print 4000 pictures a year and keep the negatives in a cool dry environment they will last until greybeards beard turns white? Or even longer.
It already has.
 

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