I JUST CAN'T NAIL MY FOCUS! I'M SO FRUSTRATED!

You can do that - let the camera choose where to focus. DSLR's work great as big point and shoots too!
Below photo - shot in complete auto....camera chose everything. So, yeah the camera does a pretty good job but its still not as smart or intuitive as a human. With a little practice you coud be great a focusing and you could guarantee that when taking a portrait you are focused on the eyes. You can't guarantee that when the camera does it for you. My Nikon shows that in the below picture my camera focused on the little bit of tree showing next to her thigh on the right side of the frame. So, the camera didn't focus on her at all but its still a nice picture - far from great!

 
However, I love to shoot them because they are so oblivious to the camera at times and that, to me, makes for priceless photos. =)

Your lucky. My kid runs and hides when she sees the camera and she isn't even 2 yet!
 
Anyway, in most of the pictures I do not see focus as the prominent issue. As MTvision pointed out, some are underexposed, and by the way many of them have exposure compensation of -2/3 in EXIF: why?
The excellent pictures of others are a sum of many different aspects. Some eyes are just black, with no catchlights to gain attention. Perfect focus comes after.
 
Thank you for let me know focusing on one eye instead of between two eyes. Correct me if I am wrong.
I use spot metering and AF-S mode when taking portrait. I thought there are two way to put subject's eye in focus: 1. moving focus point, the person's height and position will vary the frame. 2. focus lock composition, need practice.
Here is my question:
Is it necessary to parallel move the camera body when recompose the frame? Can I get accurate focus if I recompose by turning camera body on the tripod?
 
The plane of focus is parallel to the image sensor. As long as recomposing or turning the camera does not involve any tilt up or down, the plane of focus will still be the same. If during the recompose the camera is moved closer to or further from the focal point, the focus would change to an extent realtive to the amount moved..
 
I read quickly, but I didn't think I saw anyone address the focus mode here. If your subjects are moving you want to use a continuous focus mode.
Single focus locks the focus in the spot you place your focus point and does not change even if your subject moves. AF-a allows your camera to choose if you need to use single or continuous. Cameras notoriously make the wrong choice in everything-or at least the choice we would not make.
When using continuous your focus tracks when your subject moves.

Another trick to focus is to get your focus OFF the shutter button and use back button focus. I love it for portraits but not sports... It may or may not help you, but in most situations it results in better focus.
 
MLeeK said:
I read quickly, but I didn't think I saw anyone address the focus mode here. If your subjects are moving you want to use a continuous focus mode.
Single focus locks the focus in the spot you place your focus point and does not change even if your subject moves. AF-a allows your camera to choose if you need to use single or continuous. Cameras notoriously make the wrong choice in everything-or at least the choice we would not make.
When using continuous your focus tracks when your subject moves.

Another trick to focus is to get your focus OFF the shutter button and use back button focus. I love it for portraits but not sports... It may or may not help you, but in most situations it results in better focus.

It was addressed - she already shoots af-c. You can shoot in af-s and have no focusing errors with moving children. I actually prefer af-s with children because the camera isn't always going to keep focus exactly where you want it (usually the eyes). It will track the subject but not necessarily keep the focus in the same exact spot. In her previous thread there was a link provided on how to photograph children and it recommended af-s.

Thanks for recommending back button focusing! I told her about it in PM so I'm glad someone else finally mentioned it.
 
My 2¢ is that in the majority of these images, your camera position is too high. As in, your shooting a child from an adults POV. Camera position for (traditional) portraits should be even with or slightly higher than eye level. As my old football coach used to say...... drop down and give me a knee.
 
MLeeK said:
I read quickly, but I didn't think I saw anyone address the focus mode here. If your subjects are moving you want to use a continuous focus mode.
Single focus locks the focus in the spot you place your focus point and does not change even if your subject moves. AF-a allows your camera to choose if you need to use single or continuous. Cameras notoriously make the wrong choice in everything-or at least the choice we would not make.
When using continuous your focus tracks when your subject moves.

Another trick to focus is to get your focus OFF the shutter button and use back button focus. I love it for portraits but not sports... It may or may not help you, but in most situations it results in better focus.

It was addressed - she already shoots af-c. You can shoot in af-s and have no focusing errors with moving children. I actually prefer af-s with children because the camera isn't always going to keep focus exactly where you want it (usually the eyes). It will track the subject but not necessarily keep the focus in the same exact spot. In her previous thread there was a link provided on how to photograph children and it recommended af-s.

Thanks for recommending back button focusing! I told her about it in PM so I'm glad someone else finally mentioned it.

See what I get for trying to read so fast! LOL!!!
I am like you and with portraits of any sort prefer the AF-s, but I do know a LOT of child photographers who are just the opposite of us too. It's something to play with and find your own comfort I guess.


I also wanted to add that I find with focus and recomposing and shooting at a fair to wide aperture OFTEN throws off the focus. Think about the way your body rotates and how if you turn slightly to the left or right your nose position would be back further than it was looking straight forward... So is the shutter of the lens which effectively changes your focus. When you are working with a VERY shallow depth of field that fraction of a shift in the position of the sensor to the plane of focus matters greatly.
 
I definitely agree that you have to find your own way to do thing but that means that you (not you specifically) have to play with all the settings to see what works best for you.

I don't think the OP's issue is focusing per say. Now, that she knows where to focus (and not between the eyes) I think she will see an improvement in that aspect. But, she really likes the shallow depth of field but she has mentioned how part of the face will be slightly OOF - which isn't due to focusing. Its caused by shooting pretty wide open. Like you said though, any slight movement will through the focus off and make it blatantly obvious because of the small DOF!
 
Do you prefer focus lock recompose?

I don't usually recompose so I can't really give an opinion. IMO - when shooting active, crazy 2 year old's I don't really have time to focus/recompose - I don't know if it would even work with kids since they are moving so much. But, I don't really know because I've never tried it. I usually just move my focal points to compose the shot.
 
With every 50mm 1.8 there should be directions to go immediately to a forum for instructions because everyone ends here eventually. The sweet spot for the 50mm is f4 to f6.3. At f1.8 and 5 feet away the plane of focus is merely .2 feet. On a moving child your minimum shutter speed should be 200. This is why I shoot manual so I can have control.
This may help some.
Online Depth of Field Calculator
 

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