I thought about switching to Canon...

[astroNikon]

The thing I don't like about AF-C is the fact I can't focus on what I want and then recompose like I do when using AF-S. That's how I always shoot and maybe that is wrong. I'll have to get really used to moving the AF point around a lot I guess.

Use your AF-L/AE-L button on the back. As long as you hold it down it will do a Focus Lock, then you can hit the release. Focus and Recompose. No problem.

I use it to do a focus lock in sports when someone crosses the AF area in front of the subject. I'm always using it.

 

[nerwin]

The thing I don't like about AF-C is the fact I can't focus on what I want and then recompose like I do when using AF-S. That's how I always shoot and maybe that is wrong. I'll have to get really used to moving the AF point around a lot I guess.

Use your AF-L/AE-L button on the back. As long as you hold it down it will do a Focus Lock, then you can hit the release. Focus and Recompose. No problem.

I use it to do a focus lock in sports when someone crosses the AF area in front of the subject. I'm always using it.

Oh duh. Wow how did I forget that. I'm going a little crazy I guess haha. (I'm blaming it on the holidays)

 

[robbins.photo]

The thing I don't like about AF-C is the fact I can't focus on what I want and then recompose like I do when using AF-S. That's how I always shoot and maybe that is wrong. I'll have to get really used to moving the AF point around a lot I guess.

Yes you can. Press the shutter halfway down, recompose, shoot. The only caveat being that if you don't let off the shutter button the second frame you shoot will cause the camera to refocus on wherever the AF point is at the moment. Not a big deal really, since in AF-S you were only planning on one frame anyway. So you get an extra frame you have to delete.

You can use the selector to change where the AF points are in the frame and shoot continuous with your desired focus point, or you can do what I do and leave it in the center and shoot wide enough that you can recompose later in post.

I prefer the last method by far, gives me a whole lot more to work with in post and allows me to decide then on best composition.

But again, switching to another camera or even another brand won't fix this issue.

 

[nerwin]

The thing I don't like about AF-C is the fact I can't focus on what I want and then recompose like I do when using AF-S. That's how I always shoot and maybe that is wrong. I'll have to get really used to moving the AF point around a lot I guess.

Yes you can. Press the shutter halfway down, recompose, shoot. The only caveat being that if you don't let off the shutter button the second frame you shoot will cause the camera to refocus on wherever the AF point is at the moment. Not a big deal really, since in AF-S you were only planning on one frame anyway. So you get an extra frame you have to delete.

You can use the selector to change where the AF points are in the frame and shoot continuous with your desired focus point, or you can do what I do and leave it in the center and shoot wide enough that you can recompose later in post.

I prefer the last method by far, gives me a whole lot more to work with in post and allows me to decide then on best composition.

But again, switching to another camera or even another brand won't fix this issue.

Or I can just use the AE-L/AF-L button like @astroNikon said haha.

 

[robbins.photo]

Or I can just use the AE-L/AF-L button like @astroNikon said haha.

Lots of methods available to all accomplish the same goal.

 

[pixmedic]

have you considered switching to something more hip...like Fuji?

 

[nerwin]

have you considered switching to something more hip...like Fuji?

Sure, but it's not for me.

 

[nerwin]

have you considered switching to something more hip...like Fuji?

Not that I have anything against Fuji, I think their cameras are great. If I did a lot of travel and street photography, I'd use Fuji for sure. But for what I do, DSLR is just better for me.

 

[nerwin]

The grass is greener.

But switching is okay, it sorta reinvigorates the passion, stirs up the coals. But you're going in realizing that there isn't anything significantly difference ... so your eyes are open. If you want to try something significant different ... pick up a X100T. The fixed lens will either make you or break you. Personally, I think you'll appreciate the challenge of the fixed lens and you'll love the Fuji files. (But make it an augmentation to your existing system.)

I used to have the orginal X100 and boy did I love that camera! However, it had the FinePix sensor which I preferred. I may be one of the rare ones, but I'm not impressed with the new X-Trans raw files because Lightroom handles them like crap and I'm not going to use a raw converter first and then import them, Its just another step I have to do.

But I have thought about just getting another old X100 for fun. But then again...why not just pop a prime on my DSLR? I guess using the X100 cameras means the lenses are fixed and I have no choice but to use it.

 

[pixmedic]

The grass is greener.

But switching is okay, it sorta reinvigorates the passion, stirs up the coals. But you're going in realizing that there isn't anything significantly difference ... so your eyes are open. If you want to try something significant different ... pick up a X100T. The fixed lens will either make you or break you. Personally, I think you'll appreciate the challenge of the fixed lens and you'll love the Fuji files. (But make it an augmentation to your existing system.)

I used to have the orginal X100 and boy did I love that camera! However, it had the FinePix sensor which I preferred. I may be one of the rare ones, but I'm not impressed with the new X-Trans raw files because Lightroom handles them like crap and I'm not going to use a raw converter first and then import them, Its just another step I have to do.

But I have thought about just getting another old X100 for fun. But then again...why not just pop a prime on my DSLR? I guess using the X100 cameras means the lenses are fixed and I have no choice but to use it.

you must have been using an older version of LR...
I only use adobe CC and use LR for all my fuji raw files. never had any issues with the processing.
i have noticed that adobe updates PS, LR, and camera raw CC pretty regularly.

 

[nerwin]

The grass is greener.

But switching is okay, it sorta reinvigorates the passion, stirs up the coals. But you're going in realizing that there isn't anything significantly difference ... so your eyes are open. If you want to try something significant different ... pick up a X100T. The fixed lens will either make you or break you. Personally, I think you'll appreciate the challenge of the fixed lens and you'll love the Fuji files. (But make it an augmentation to your existing system.)

I used to have the orginal X100 and boy did I love that camera! However, it had the FinePix sensor which I preferred. I may be one of the rare ones, but I'm not impressed with the new X-Trans raw files because Lightroom handles them like crap and I'm not going to use a raw converter first and then import them, Its just another step I have to do.

But I have thought about just getting another old X100 for fun. But then again...why not just pop a prime on my DSLR? I guess using the X100 cameras means the lenses are fixed and I have no choice but to use it.

you must have been using an older version of LR...
I only use adobe CC and use LR for all my fuji raw files. never had any issues with the processing.
i have noticed that adobe updates PS, LR, and camera raw CC pretty regularly.

I have the latest and always checking fuji raw files after updates and still see the same fine detail smearing. I don't like it.

 

[Derrel]

I see that I got to your thread late after most of the fireworks. As for focusing problems, slow aperture variable lenses like f 3.5 - 5.6 lenses, and other slow lenses like your 24 - 120, these lenses will function their best with the AF assist light system enabled. I've owned three different Nikons that have an AF assist light of the white light type. It really really helps and it does not need a direct line of sight- just having it on will bypass the lens hoods. Additionally, using just one single point out of 39 total points means you're using about 1/39 of the processing power the camera has at its disposal. At least switch to 9-point AF in difficult low-light conditions, especially with slow aperture lenses.

Phase detection autofocus works based on in focus and out of focus data being analysed and compared with focusing movement of the lens. With short focal-length lenses, and lenses with small diameter maximum apertures, the difference between what is in focus and what is out of focus is very slight. The difference in focusing performance between an F4 24mm zoom lens and a 24mm F1.8 prime is substantial. If a lens gives a very unfocused or a very out of focus set of data to the AF system it will focus well and easily,such as how a 300 mm F 2.8 lens does. A 50mm 1.4 lens has AF data that gives decidedly in Focus or out of focus readings as the lens is moved through the distances, but a slow f 5.6 18-55 mm Zoom does not.At its 55mm setting the lens has fairly deep depth of field so as the lens focuses what is in Focus or out of focus is not an either-or clean break but more a very slow slog between yeah kind of in- focus yeah a little out of focus,so I guess this is the best. So when only one single point of AF data is allowed to be processed the computer will struggle when there is not a crisp, clean in- or out of-focus break. When the focus Computing system has more than one, single point of data to consider, it is much easier to get decent focusing with slow lenses. As we move into an era with more and more slow maximum aperture and variable maximum aperture zoom lenses designed to be inexpensive and light, we tend to run into more problems then we did in the era of fast f 1.4 and f 2 and even F 2.8 lenses.

I think perhaps one of the best investments you could make is buying Thom Hogan's The Complete Guide to the Nikon D600 and D610. He has the entire AF system explained. Besides the number of AF squares in use such as 1 or 9 or 21 or 39, you also have the AF area mode to consider. It sounds to me as if you are using the D600 in a very simple manner, and are not using two of the most essential focusing assist tools, which would be 9-point, And the AF assist light system, in tough situations. I remember the first time I used my 11-point d2x camera with one of the group AF square modes. The difference was night and day. The camera went from missing or losing focus, to being able to nail autofocus. On moving subjects like pole vaulters and long jumpers going through the air.

 

[jsecordphoto]

It seems like every time I check the boards here there's a new thread from you about buying/selling/switching gear. Pretty sure I gave you the same advice a few months ago- shoot more, post less.

 

[nerwin]

It seems like every time I check the boards here there's a new thread from you about buying/selling/switching gear. Pretty sure I gave you the same advice a few months ago- shoot more, post less.

You're right. I have GAS, I'm sorry.

 

[astroNikon]

It seems like every time I check the boards here there's a new thread from you about buying/selling/switching gear. Pretty sure I gave you the same advice a few months ago- shoot more, post less.

You're right. I have GAS, I'm sorry.

.in the last 6 months I've bought a d750 and a d500.
I put the pedal to the metal with the gas!!