I'm sure this get's asked alot

[timor]

And the rest seem like ordinary supplies I can get just about anywhere. Am I missing anything? Or suggestions on some brand I'd be better off using?

Yes, you do, you will need a good laboratory class thermometer, calibrated. What you can buy in photo store might be off by even 3-4 degrees. That will throw you off any developing charts which in any case are just starting points, not absolute, written in the stone rules. Enough, that your water has a bit different pH (even if you gonna use distilled water), that will have influence on activity of the reducer, which automatically means different dev. time. So first time use the recommendations for given film and decide if the density of the neg is, what you desire.
Christopher is right, film retriever, forget about it, beer bottle opener is all, you need. I say also forget film squeegee, the easiest way to ruin the negative. Never ever touch the emulsion when it is wet and swollen and sensitive. Use instead a soft microfibre cloth and only on the film base side. Most water spots form on that side anyway. Dont leave too much water around the perforation.

 

[Sw1tchFX]

CAFFINOL OR GTFO.

 

[unpopular]

Caffinol is for panzies! Dedicated photographers use Urushiol-based developers.

Yes, you do, you will need a good laboratory class thermometer, calibrated.

I highly recommend this thermometer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HANNA-HI981...ltDomain_0&hash=item48386c1731#ht_1442wt_1013

It's fully submergible and has a pH meter for when you decide to start experimenting. Like all pH meters, you will need to calibrate it regularly. Seems a lot of people don't realize that.

 

[unpopular]

(oh. and for frick's sake, don't make developer from Urushiol. I have visions of people pushing poison oak through a wheatgrass juicer. I'm not even sure it'd work.)