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Indoor flash?

LBH

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I'm having trouble getting crisp images indoors without a flash. The problem is that I don't need one, but without some sort of strobe, my photos aren't nearly as clear as I'd like, no matter how bright the room may be. I'd prefer not to use my tripod since I want to have as much mobility as possible. Should I get a speedlite and set it on ultra low so that I have just enough strobe to give me a clear, crisp image? Any other suggestions?
 
What do you mean you don't need one? If you don't need it, don't use it...

For moving subjects (people, pets...), you probably do need it.

Set it to whatever power it needs to be for a good exposure...

Can you post one or two example photos that show the problem?
It would help a lot for everyone to figure out the best way to fix it.
 
I agree with Josh - post some photos. But for the most part everyone needs a flash indoors or set the camera to a high ISO to get photos with enough light to set the correct shutter speed and aperture for the situation. Our eyes don't need as much light as a camera does so what may be considered bright by you is not bright enough to your camera.
 
Here is a good example. I didn't need the extra light of a flash, but the facial features aren't nearly as crisp as I get with a studio strobe.


Screenshot2010-12-19at74715PM.png
 
The facial features are not crisp because they are blurring from motion - that means your shutter speed is too slow - ergo you need more light - ergo you will be (most likely) needing to supplement the light with a flash.

That will let you use the flash for fill light and get the shutter speed up a lot faster or let you dominate the light with that from the flash - not letting you shoot faster (1/200sec or 1/250sec will be the fastest you can shoot outside of highspeed flash modes) but by letting the light from the flash be dominate (ie if you took the shot without the flash on the same settings you would geta black - underexposed - shot) the fraction of a second that the flashlight is there for will thus only capture that split second - thus getting a sharp shot even with moving parts
 
Here is a good example. I didn't need the extra light of a flash, but the facial features aren't nearly as crisp as I get with a studio strobe.
Which means you DID need the extra light of a flash. Our eyes and brains adjust to lighting conditions, camera sensors do not. As advanced as they have become, a camera is just a dumb bit of technology.
 
The facial features are not crisp because they are blurring from motion - that means your shutter speed is too slow - ergo you need more light - ergo you will be (most likely) needing to supplement the light with a flash.

That will let you use the flash for fill light and get the shutter speed up a lot faster or let you dominate the light with that from the flash - not letting you shoot faster (1/200sec or 1/250sec will be the fastest you can shoot outside of highspeed flash modes) but by letting the light from the flash be dominate (ie if you took the shot without the flash on the same settings you would geta black - underexposed - shot) the fraction of a second that the flashlight is there for will thus only capture that split second - thus getting a sharp shot even with moving parts

Not my thread (wish we had "thread starter" indication) but, Thank You for that clear explanation. I'm new at this again.

Mick
 
Thank you everyone. So what do you suggest? A speedlite with diffuser?
 
To make things easier, you could start with a hotshoe flash with your make of camera that has TTL (through the lens) functionality. Not required because using manual only flashes can work just as well, but requires a longer learning curve. TTL has the advantage of slapping that sucker on the hotshoe and it runs automatically for pretty good results.

I'm a fan of light modifiers, but suggest holding off until you see a need for which modifier you actually need for your shooting style. But TBH, a difusser is always a good idea.
 
If you want to avoid using a flash, you may be able to just turn your ISO up--how much will depend on your camera model.
 

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