Informations before buying a new D7000

[Yantropov]

The only thing the D5100 has over the D7000 for video is that you can move the LCD screen.

 

[LizardKing]

Another question: what lens do you suggest as an alternative starting lens to the DX 18-105 mm?

It's really hard to answer your question. I remember asking the same one when I was looking to buy my first camera and lenses, and the truth is you'll have to figure out by yourself what's the best lens for you. It depends on so many things... Starting with your budget, the camera, your plans for upgrade in the future, what kind of photography you'll be doing most, other secundary uses you can think of... If you're looking to buy just one lens, I wouldn't recommend starting with a prime, so just look for the different options Nikon offers in zooms. You should also check Tamron and Sigma, too.

I ended up buying this one and think it's a great lens. Maybe not good for low-light conditions w/o a tripod, but the D7000 works really great with high ISOs so that shouldn't be a problem.

edit: Once you do some research, people here can help you make the final decision... But you need to show them a couple of models or at least explain a little bit more your needs

Regards,
LizardKing

 

[Infinite_Day]

Also, the 18-105 is a DX lens and behaves as such on a DX body (i.e. all the bodies you listed). Only lenses designed for FX or 35mm will have a longer effective focal length on a DX body.

This is wrong unfortunately.

The focal length printed on the lens (specified in mm), is a characteristic of the optical geometry, and is true no matter what format it is mounted to or designed for. A 35mm DX lens on DX body produces the exact same image as a 35mm FX lens on a DX body. A 35mm DX lens on an FX body produces the exact same image as a region cropped from the center of a 35mm FX lens on an FX body.

So, if you have a crop sensor camera, everytime you see 24mm or 35mm or whatever printed on a lens, it will always look the same, whether that lens is for DX, FX, or medium format. Every focal length on a DX body gets you a 1.5-1.6x narrower angle of view than that same focal length would on FX, no matter what format the lens was designed for.

Which is essentially what I explained on my follow-up post. I should have said "perceived" instead of "effective" I guess. I was just trying to make it easier to understand.

 

[StandingBear1983]

The only thing the D5100 has over the D7000 for video is that you can move the LCD screen.

Correct, another difference, D7000 has the motor = you can use all lenses, not only the new AF-S lenses. and its built better.

 

[Bedo]

Ok I decided to buy a D7000.I would like your opinion about this lenses:1) 18-105 VR f3.5-5.6 Or 2) 18-55 VR + 75-300 VR. Do you suggest to invest more money and get 2 lenses? What about the second choice for portraits? A friend of mine told me that a lot of portraits are made using about 65 as focal length... Consider that I have no other lenses. Any opinion is really appreciated. Thank you

 

[IByte]

35mm 1.8 or 50mm 1.8 are pretty good for the money. Having said that you will not regret buying the d7000.

 

[Erik638]

I bought my camera w/ kit lens 18-105 and thought it was a good lens to learn on and still put it on my camera when I will be asking others to take pictures with my camera. I next bought a used 50mm 1.8 for 90 dollars off Craig's list. From that moment I was hooked on fast glass. I then bought 24-70 & 70-200. The 24-70 basically lives on my camera with the 70-200 coming on for kids sports and a occasional portrait.

So my rambling answer will depend on your budget.

Low budget- 18-105 w/ a used 50. F1.8 prime

Medium budget - third party 24-70 2.8 (like the range on dx many people will say its to long on dx) or Nikon 24-120 f4

No budget - Nikon 24-70 f2.8

 

[Bedo]

I was thinking about:

1. 18-105mm f/3.5-5.6
   
   OR
   .
2. 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6 and 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6

With choice 2) I will lose the range from 55mm to 70mm. Is this a problem for portraits?

With choice 1), what about the future? What can I buy in the future to reach 300mm?

Medium budget - third party 24-70 2.8 (like the range on dx many people will say its to long on dx)

What does the end sentence mean?

 

[Bedo]

Ok I've just purchased a new D7000 + 18-105mm VR + a 55-300mm VR + 4GB Lexar Premium card.

Should I need some extra-accessories, just to start? A cleaning kit (any suggestions?). An UV-filter? A lens hood? Another SDHC?​

 

[Infinite_Day]

You're going to want another, larger SDHC or SDXC card. THe D7000 has two slots and I keep one 8gb and one 16gb in it and I wish I could steal the other 16gb that's in my wife's point and shoot for video. You won't get a ton of RAW photos on a 4gb card. Both lenses should have a hood with them. Giottos makes a good basic cleaning kit with an air blaster. You may want to look into a second battery as well.

 

[Patriot]

I have a 32gb card and a 8gb...as soon as the store get more 32gb in stock im getting it. Those two will hold me over for a very long time.

 

[Bedo]

I've started using my new D7000 and I like it a lot!

However it is really, really heavy!!

 

[Onbird]

I've started using my new D7000 and I like it a lot!

However it is really, really heavy!!

Really, it's not heavy at all. Perhaps you are used to a P&S.. I believe the internal frame is made of magnesium for sturdy use in the field like the PRO cameras.

It really a great camera..

--John

Happy Shooting

 

[KmH]

The D7000 has a magnesium top and back plate. The rest of the chassis is plastic.

http://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Digital-SLR-Cameras/25468/D7000.html
Compact but durable with magnesium-alloy top and rear covers,..

FWIW, the D7000's magnesium plates (or a full magnesium chassis like Nikon's prosumer and pro grade cameras have) are mainly there to aid heat dissipation and to block outside RF interference.

 

[Vautrin]

I would never give the advice to any person who is starting out to buy a full frame pro body camera. Unless they have the money to buy pro lenses and take an immediate course on how to use the camera. There is a huge difference with the D90-D5100-D3200 -D7000 to the D800. The average person would be lost and sink very fast.

I would reccomend the D7000. It will still be superior to the D3200. It is has a metal shell and weather sealed. It will perform better in low light and probably has way more features than the D3200. It also has 1080p video ( i never used) It will allow you do use way more lenses than the D3200 and D5100. Its bigger and feels better in the hand and it still has auto and user controls incase you are not sure what settings to use in A-P-S or M modes. The 16mp is enough for any person these days. The average joe does not print huge pictures so 24mp I don't see being that much better and would rather have more of a prosumer camera like the D7000. If the D7000 does get a replacement I don't think it will be a huge difference. Subtle changes maybe but nothing I would wait for if I was going to buy one.

I would however choose the D7000 over the D90 any day.

Good luck

So this is kind of a complicated question.

On the one hand, if you went out and bought the best lens + body you can, you will take longer to upgrade. So, if you get a D3200, maybe in a few months or a year you'll be buying a new body (and definitely some new lenses), but if you really go all out and go with the best options ahead of time, you'll have plenty of room to grow.

This being said, most people won't know what they really like to shoot right off the bat. Or they'll grow as a photographer. So if you were to go out, buy the best equipment you can afford, I can't guarantee you that you won't end up wanting different equipment.

In addition, the D3200 is very "n00b oriented" and there will be modes to make it really easy to shoot with, even if you have never held a camera before.

However, a high end camera won't have a "portrait mode" -- it'll expect you to figure out exactly what you want.

So, with that said, I tend to think if you go for a D3200 and get a nice lens (FX if you can afford it) you'll have a great halfway point. You'll have a lens you can grow with and use on bigger bodies, but at the same time won't be stuck before you actually know what you want to shoot

Hope that makes sense