Is iso 400 really grainy?

1. Always take the temperature of your developer and have your other baths be consistent.
2. If you photos are not exposed properly, chances are grain will be more pronounced, especially in the darker areas of your photos.

Most of my work has been done with Kodak Tri-X 400 and for my Body Project series, grain was not even an issue in nearly all my prints. Proper exposure is key as many have stated before me. I also shoot Tri-X at 200 and compensate for it in developing times and beautiful tonalities have been produced.

However, for my latest project: TeenEDGE, I was forced to shoot at 400 because of limited light and lying to my camera wasn't working. When I did my contact sheet, images were very contrasty and had more grain than I'm used to, but it did not hinder the photos at all.

Do you print by hand as well? If you do, I suggest printing it the best you can and see how it turns out. I scan my prints and those are what I have on my Flickr. Feel free to check it out for examples!
Some people believe in perfect negatives, and some believe in perfecting them through printing. I believe in both but mostly the latter. [:

Wow I sound like a representative for Kodak. :lmao:
I demand free film at once! [:
 
1. Always take the temperature of your developer and have your other baths be consistent.
2. If you photos are not exposed properly, chances are grain will be more pronounced, especially in the darker areas of your photos.

Most of my work has been done with Kodak Tri-X 400 and for my Body Project series, grain was not even an issue in nearly all my prints. Proper exposure is key as many have stated before me. I also shoot Tri-X at 200 and compensate for it in developing times and beautiful tonalities have been produced.

However, for my latest project: TeenEDGE, I was forced to shoot at 400 because of limited light and lying to my camera wasn't working. When I did my contact sheet, images were very contrasty and had more grain than I'm used to, but it did not hinder the photos at all.

Do you print by hand as well? If you do, I suggest printing it the best you can and see how it turns out. I scan my prints and those are what I have on my Flickr. Feel free to check it out for examples!
Some people believe in perfect negatives, and some believe in perfecting them through printing. I believe in both but mostly the latter. [:

Wow I sound like a representative for Kodak. :lmao:
I demand free film at once! [:
Before I was forced to close my darkroom, I was getting ready to shoot a roll of 400 ASA film, Tri-X or TMY at 600 ASA. I might have even shot the roll, but never got around to developing it. Anyway, I read that underexposing B&W slightly would give you less grain, and if a 1/2 didn't work, I'd try a 1/3 stop. I was planning on experimenting with different developers until I found a concoction that held detail in the shadows. (I was mixing my own from scratch back them)
 
iam not printing the film myself just scanning it. I've got a bunch of rolls exposed now and gonna try and develop them all at once (2 at a time.) Iam pretty certain the film is exposing to the correct exposure, iam shooting with a f90x and it meters well. I'ev also started using red and yellow filters. Going to pick up a thermometer to properly monitor temperatures.

i would love to print but i just cant afford all the extra gear and chemicals also no location for me to do so, ontop of all this i may be moving in the near future and woulr rather not invest in more gear and end up having to sell it all again.
 
Fuji Neopan 400 and Ilford Delta 400 delivers very fine grain in the 35mm format.

3177289238_1fc3ca3617.jpg

Neopan 400 (35mm)
 

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