is it possible to shoot wide open 2.8 with studio lighting?

shutter speed will have a big impact on ambient, aperture on flash
 
Like Derrel mentioned above, Gelling the lights would be best with neutral filters. The A800s have to much muscle even on lowest output for shooting with wide apertures. Moving the lights farther back would reduce the "softness" of the light significantly.. and is probably not a good idea.
 
I'm just learning off camera flash (OCF) and found out that the AB800 will fire when it "see's" another flash. If you have another flash with OCF capabilities like Pocket Wizard Flex TT5's you can set the flash to go off in a totally different direction and up your shutter speed to whatever will "kill" the light somewhat.

I fail to see the relevance of this to the OP's issue. Using another light as an optical slave will create more light and not help with the issue of already having too much light.

hmmm thought using a faster shutter speed would kill some of that light. the other light could be dialed down to almost nothing. Maybe I'm wrong. Like I said, I'm just starting off camera flash. My bad! :D

Shutter speed has nothing to do with light from flash / strobe.... only aperture controls that light. Shutter speed will help to modify existing ambient light intake.. but that is all.

Some lights are powerful enough, that even dialed all the way down.. they have too much power for some applications. The solution is either a less powerful light, or killing some of the power with either modifiers or gels.
 
Like Derrel mentioned above, Gelling the lights would be best with neutral filters. The A800s have to much muscle even on lowest output for shooting with wide apertures. Moving the lights farther back would reduce the "softness" of the light significantly.. and is probably not a good idea.

I was being sarcastic about moving the light back. but of course softness can be achieved moving the light eway back and bouncing off multiple reflectors. Will lower the light even more too heh
 
It seems liek ND is the way to go. I think I'm going to give it a try and see what happens. Like always I want to thank all the people who responded. Some info was useful and some was just humorous but thanks for taking the time to give some input.
 
I'm just learning off camera flash (OCF) and found out that the AB800 will fire when it "see's" another flash. If you have another flash with OCF capabilities like Pocket Wizard Flex TT5's you can set the flash to go off in a totally different direction and up your shutter speed to whatever will "kill" the light somewhat.

I fail to see the relevance of this to the OP's issue. Using another light as an optical slave will create more light and not help with the issue of already having too much light.

hmmm thought using a faster shutter speed would kill some of that light. the other light could be dialed down to almost nothing. Maybe I'm wrong. Like I said, I'm just starting off camera flash. My bad! :D

Shutter speed controls ambient and is limited by the camera's x sync. Aperture and ISO control ambient and flash exposure. That's by people strive to find ways to cheat the camera's x sync, so that when the ambient is too bright, the can underexpose by turning up the shutter speed.

Put your flash on your camera in manual mode and take three pictures. Have the flash properly exposed in all three. Do the first with a shutter speed of 1/50, the next at 1/100, and the next at 1/250 and see the difference. Try and make the 1/100 with a properly exposed ambient for your middle ground shot.
 

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