imakefights
TPF Noob!
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- #16
How do I remove the button cell?
ISO and my new Digital Rebel. :(
- Thread Starter imakefights
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DocFrankenstein
Clinically Insane?
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In the second picture the guy's hand is not moving, maybe that's why it's not blurred? 
I dunno... the way my rebel writes raw files... I'd want 20D for sure.
Cheers... it doesn't matter really though. People shot sports with view cameras where you had to change the cassete and the bulb after every shot
Peace dude.
I dunno... the way my rebel writes raw files... I'd want 20D for sure.
Cheers... it doesn't matter really though. People shot sports with view cameras where you had to change the cassete and the bulb after every shot
Peace dude.
Victor said:In the second picture the guy's hand is not moving, maybe that's why it's not blurred?
.
Ah, so you htink the guy just held his hand up and said "It's coming!" No, his hand was definitely moving, i was there watching the event. This action is quite fast, faster than boxing because there is more than just the hands involved. Both those were at 1/250. cya
Digital Matt
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First off, you need to shoot in one of the creative modes so you can use center weighted average metering. Meter on the subject you are shooting, and you will get a much better exposure. If are you not comfortable with setting your own aperture and shutter, you can shoot in Av, (aperture priority), set the aperture to it's widest, and the camera will meter on the center portion of the frame, and set your shutter speed accordingly. You can use exposure compensation to bring it up a bit if it's still too dark.
Of course you'd be better off with a 20D, but if you could afford one, you'd have bought it straight out. The Rebel will serve you fine with the right lens and some know-how. I don't know how close you'll be to the action, but you might want to look into a telephoto lens for this stuff. Be prepared to spend some big bucks though. Depending on how close you can get, you might get away with an 85mm 1.8, or you might need to splurge and get the 70-200 2.8 IS.
About the error 99; Dirty lens contacts can cause that. Power down the camera, remove the batteries, and dettach the lens. Make sure the metal contacts on the lens are wiped clean before you attach your lens. Then put in the batteries and power it up. It should be ok. If not, it's possible that you have a factory defect. Send it back to Canon.
Of course you'd be better off with a 20D, but if you could afford one, you'd have bought it straight out. The Rebel will serve you fine with the right lens and some know-how. I don't know how close you'll be to the action, but you might want to look into a telephoto lens for this stuff. Be prepared to spend some big bucks though. Depending on how close you can get, you might get away with an 85mm 1.8, or you might need to splurge and get the 70-200 2.8 IS.
About the error 99; Dirty lens contacts can cause that. Power down the camera, remove the batteries, and dettach the lens. Make sure the metal contacts on the lens are wiped clean before you attach your lens. Then put in the batteries and power it up. It should be ok. If not, it's possible that you have a factory defect. Send it back to Canon.
Rogue Monk
TPF Noob!
You just read Matt's reply. Now go and read it again.
Its important that you understand what he's saying. Most others were saying it too--the metering is throwing the shot. Center-weighted metering will help.
The other thing is the hall light. No matter what metering system you use, that hall light is going to wreck your image (unless that's the shot you're going for). Plus, the hall isn't a good representation of a ring. The lighting will be better at the venue (boxers don't fight in the dark).
So the best thing for you to do is shoot some fights. If you're being paid to shoot, then give yourself an out. Shoot all the odd rounds with digital and the even ones with film. That way, you haven't blown the whole thing on a whim and possibly cost yourself the gig.
Between matches (if there's a lull so people can get some drinks or snacks) and you have or can borrow a laptop, empty your memory cards onto it and see what you've got. If you find them still too dark, then you'll have to find faster glass (which you probably have. I'd assume you went with Canon because you shoot with Canon now).
Try it in a real situation before "throwing in the towel".
PS. I have a D70, so I can't help you with the err90 issue.
Its important that you understand what he's saying. Most others were saying it too--the metering is throwing the shot. Center-weighted metering will help.
The other thing is the hall light. No matter what metering system you use, that hall light is going to wreck your image (unless that's the shot you're going for). Plus, the hall isn't a good representation of a ring. The lighting will be better at the venue (boxers don't fight in the dark).
So the best thing for you to do is shoot some fights. If you're being paid to shoot, then give yourself an out. Shoot all the odd rounds with digital and the even ones with film. That way, you haven't blown the whole thing on a whim and possibly cost yourself the gig.
Between matches (if there's a lull so people can get some drinks or snacks) and you have or can borrow a laptop, empty your memory cards onto it and see what you've got. If you find them still too dark, then you'll have to find faster glass (which you probably have. I'd assume you went with Canon because you shoot with Canon now).
Try it in a real situation before "throwing in the towel".
PS. I have a D70, so I can't help you with the err90 issue.
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