The 50mm f/1.8 should give you some options in terms of what camera settings to use.
Basically it all boils down to this: when you point your camera at a scene, your camera meter is telling you what settings you need to adjust in order to achieve an average of tones, called middle gray or 18% gray.
You have three choices as to how you want to make those camera adjustments, and they all have drawbacks. You can adjust the shutter, but the lower you go, the higher the potential for motion blur. So 1/60 is a good baseline.
Or you can adjust aperture. That's why your 50mm gives you options, because you can open it all the way up to 1.8, which is big. Lenses that can open up wide like that -- lenses with wide aperture capability -- are said to be "fast" because they enable you to photograph in low-light situations. The drawback to using a wide aperture is that the image tends to be less sharp the wider you go, but it's not a deal breaker.
Finally, you can adjust iso. People like low ISO numbers like 100 because there is little noise. Noise is different from film grain. Noise looks like shit. Film grain is beautiful. Most DSLRs can do 800 ISO with little noise.
In your situation, your shutter will probably have to be locked at 1/125 or even 1/250, because of your moving targets. So right away you know you only have two settings available that can be adjusted.
Since you are shooting three-dimensional things, you will want to make sure you have sufficient depth of field. Depth of field is defined as the range of sharpness in a photo, and the wider your aperture goes, like f/4 down to f/1.8, the smaller that range gets. But depth of field is also determined by lens focal length and camera-subject distance, so your 50mm will enable you to get reasonable depth of field even at f/2.8, provided you are standing far enough away from your subjects to get them all in the frame.
So your settings thus far are f.2.8 @ 1/125.
I personally like to adjust ISO last. I shoot film, so it's the equivalent of swapping out film mid-roll. Not something I want to do unless I have to. So when you meter the scene, if those two settings above are not adequate to give you a good exposure, then you need to adjust the ISO. If your meter says the scene is 2 stops underexposed, and you're at ISO 100, then you will need to increase the ISO sensitivity.
Changing camera settings is easy. You just need to decide early on which settings cannot change, and which ones can be adjusted. In your situation, since you're photographing things that move, you know right away that your shutter will have to be fast enough to stop motion, and that means somewhere around 1/125. That is a locked setting, it can't change. So all you do is tweak the other two settings to suit your needs.
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