Just bought Rolleicord V on ebay. Keep and fix or return?

tuxon64 · Feb 28, 2013

I had been watching Ebay recently for a TLR. I liked the Rollei's but the price swings are huge for any given model. And most of them are not even tested, other than looks good or shutter sounds right. So I took the plunge and bought one stating that it is in good working order. Well it does look good but the shutter is slow on 1/15 and below. I would say by a factor of 4 maybe. 1 second is closer to 3 or 4, etc.... 1/30 and faster "could" be accurate but hard to tell. It's not a scientific test but I just tried to sync it with a dslr just going by sound.

Cosmetically it looks good. It was born sometime in 1954 and looks good for it's age. Focus is smooth. Timer seems to work on the faster speeds. Aperture blades look to open just fine. Lens looks clear to me but not sure what to look for. I don't see those spider things that indicate fungus. Film counter is slow to return to zero when opening up the back, sometimes takes several tries. I haven't run any film through it so cannot address if there are any light leaks.

I paid 135 for it with a 14 day return. Do I return it or invest money for a CLA+, which could be another 1-200+? Or if the faster speeds do work use it as is. It's more of a novelty item and I would use it sparingly in outdoor work which I could avoid the slow speeds anyway. Or is it a matter of time the fast speeds fail as well and becomes a nice looking bookshelf item? I know a lot of questions. Thanks in advance.

Todd

compur · Feb 28, 2013

To inspect the lens set aperture at maximum and shutter speed to B. Then open the back, open the shutter and shine a flashlight through the lens. Any haze or fungus will be obvious.

As for the slow shutter speeds -- I would first shop around for a CLA. Cleaning the shutter is a relatively easy task on a TLR. If you can get it done for under $100 you'd have a great camera at a good price.

tuxon64 · Feb 28, 2013

I did that last night and too me the lens looked okay. Some specs here and there but clear of haze. From what I have been told from other people, go in expecting a CLA at a minimum regardless of what the seller says. All the camera repair shops are saying to send it in but the trick is to find the right place the first time. Wouldn't take to long until the shipping fore and back is equal to the camera cost. Essex Camera estimates 110 on their website. Might go with them.

Oh I did remove the top part of the camera to get to the mirror. There were a lot of specs of dust on it. Of course looked much worse looking through the viewing lens but is pretty clean now. Also the focus glass is nice and clean. Doubt I could fix the shutter though. The schematics on the thing looks pretty complicated.

To inspect the lens set aperture at maximum and shutter speed to B. Then open the back, open the shutter and shine a flashlight through the lens. Any haze or fungus will be obvious.
As for the slow shutter speeds -- I would first shop around for a CLA. Cleaning the shutter is a relatively easy task on a TLR. If you can get it done for under $100 you'd have a great camera at a good price.[/QUOTE]

vintagesnaps · Feb 28, 2013

I've found older cameras to sometimes be slower on the slow speeds but I don't use the slow shutter speeds much anyway. I've gotten cameras that were somewhat stuck and difficult to even open - I'm guessing they were closed up for a lot of years and might just need some use and TLC.

I guess you're always taking a chance with old cameras but I lean toward usually doing as little as necessary and if cameras are generally in working order I tend to keep them. It just depends on what camera it is, how much I paid for it, and how I'm going to use it.

Sharon

BrianV · Feb 28, 2013

I flood cleaned a Rolleicord IV that had slow/sticky shutter. The optics were out with a standard spanner, Ronsonol to the Rescue. If you are comfortable enough to remove the top and clean out under the focus screen, it's about the same level of effort.

tuxon64 · Feb 28, 2013

You gave me something to think about. Although it looks like I have to peel back the front leather to get to the screws to get to the shutter. Not sure how that before and after picture is going to look. Pulling out the focus screen was pretty straight forward. It was "I wonder what these four screws will do" and out it came. This is what I found so far on a DIY fix..

the perudographer | diy guide to rolleicord repair / cla.

BrianV said:
I flood cleaned a Rolleicord IV that had slow/sticky shutter. The optics were out with a standard spanner, Ronsonol to the Rescue. If you are comfortable enough to remove the top and clean out under the focus screen, it's about the same level of effort.

BrianV · Mar 1, 2013

On the camera that I flood cleaned: I took out the front lens cell and the rear cell to expose the shutter. Squirt in a little Ronsonol, cleans the "gum" out. Work the shutter to free things up. Best to let it then air out, and retry. Sometimes repeated applications are required. Mine freed up on the first try. On mine: no need to take out screws to get to the mechanism, all was accessible after removing the lens cells. BUT- Rolleicords and Rolleiflex's were sold with different lenses. I think mine was the Xenar.

Rick58 · Mar 1, 2013

Rollei's are ( not were) nice camera's. I sold my flex last year for a little less then $500. They are a small, light, fun camrera to shot with. If you wanted one bad enough to buy it in the first place, for a 135 price tag, I'd put a little into it and keep it.:thumbup:

Patrice · Mar 1, 2013

I used to use TLR's before getting into 35mm SLR's. Best one, investment wise, was a /2.8 Rolleiflex I bought from a second hand camera shop in Ottawa 30 years ago for $125. 10 years later it was stolen in a break-in at my apartment, the insurance adjuster settled at $5000 for that camera. Only one I have left now is a Mamiya C330 with a couple of lenses.

dxqcanada · Mar 1, 2013

Hmm, most Rolleicords don't have the same high value as Rolleiflexs ... not a bad price though, as most Rollie-anything is over priced.
They are nice cameras with very good lenses, so you may want to get it CLA'd

Like Brian (and some others here) ... I would do it myself ... though if you are not mechanically inclined it might be quite the adventure.
It is worth it in the long run to be able to service your own cameras.
Maybe pick up a cheap TLR and practice.

tuxon64 · Mar 2, 2013

Well I can see where/how to take the rear cell out but looking at the front not a clue. Searched the internet a bit and the only thing I found was you had to pull back the leather, but that was for an older but similar model. My lens is the Xenar and looks similar to the IV. Anyway I am running a roll of film through and see what happens.

BrianV · Mar 2, 2013

Sometimes these things are not obvious unless on the table. Lenses without spanner slots: I try a rubber gromet - basically a rubber cork that is hollwed out so it misses the glass.

Horngreen · Mar 2, 2013

If you clean it yourself and it improves you will catch the "bug". Soon you'll be "rescuing" tired old cameras from yard sales and flea markets in an attempt to revive them. 75% of the fun of camera collecting for me is taking them apart and fixing them. I have a VB as well and it takes great pics but I've never used the slow shutters but I'll admit they are probably slow. You might want to sit down with it and watch a half hour TV show while firing off the shutter over and over to see if a workout improves it. If not then you might tear into it, just take some pics with your phone or DSLR along the way and you'll be surprised how easy it is provided you just pay some attention. One piece of Advice is never walk away from a disassembled camera for weeks or months. Getting it back together after that can be tricky.

My only failure so far is a Kodak 35RF which didn't work at all to begin with. I like the look of the camera because it's so cobbled together and ugly but jeez what a turd to work on.

tuxon64 · Mar 9, 2013

Well I just did a field test. Shot a roll of film and got it developed. To my surprise every frame was exposed and one could argue properly. I used an app called Light Meter, seems to be accurate and it's free. A good way to log your shots and settings.

Things I have noticed. I am not that steady with this camera. The shutter release just seems odd to me. I might be able to handhold at 1/60th but probably not consistently. Also, you must set shutter speed first when setting a specific Tv/Av. The film advance did stutter in mid roll once. Kind of spinning it's gears for a bit. On the negatives there was about 1/2 frame spacing between the two. Luckily I guess there is enough film in the roll because the last pic was not cut off.

At ten dollars a roll to develop, I must learn how to do it myself. Figure parts are about 50-75 and I have watched some videos on it. I can handle it.

I'm guessing this is more of a portrait camera than for landscapes. Sharpness on near objects is good but on distant objects, just acceptable. Of course maybe I am doing something wrong or the focus is off. I would focus to infinity then just back it off a hair. That appeared sharpest through the magnifier. Still not bad for a 60 year old camera and who knows the last time it was used.

I just noticed your link on the DIY CLA. I might hold off for now. I'm not sure how the leather would look when I put it back on. The film advance issue could be problematic though. I don't think that would be included in a CLA as I am seeing that listed separately for 100+. It seems to take about 1.75 turns for each frame and might be cheaper just to keep a mental note of that. Anyway thanks for your advice.

Todd
500px / Todd M / Photos

BobMarvin · Mar 9, 2013

"Essex Camera estimates 110 on their website. Might go with them". I've read that Essex was put out of business by Hurricane Sandy, so check on them before sending the camera out.