Right back and a few points to add/consider:
1) Price Vs performance
This isn't as cut and dry as presented above because the magnification gained through the use of extension tubes and through the use of macro lens attachments varies depending upon the focal length of the lens itself.
A short cut and dry guideline is that (for a given length of extension tube) you get more magnification from extension tubes on short focal length lenses than on long ones; whilst macro lens attachments operate the other way around, giving more on longer focal length lenses.
A very rough guildine cut-off is 100mm - below that and its generally advised to go for extension tubes and above that macro lens attachments - note that this is purely looking at it from a magnification gained perspective and you can always use either item on longer or shorter focal length lenses.
Auto focus - typically speaking once you're into 1:1 magnification areas (ie true macro) auto focus becomes very unreliable and is generally not accurate enough nor fast enough to keep up with macro based photography. Even on the full macro lenses manual focus is the tried and tested approach many use. Whilst this area is changing slowly (the 7D for example has a new hybrid AF which allows it to counter back and forward tilt when used with canon macro lenses) its still an area where manually focusing is the way to go.
Note for those wondering now why you get high end extension tubes for their metal contacts, its not for AF control so much as for having aperture control (although I will point out that AF control is important when using tubes for magnification gain in situations outside of pure macro work).
Note also that the diopter sets of +1, +2, +3 type arrangments are typically the bottom end of the market and made up of single element uncoated glass. It's cheap glass and the results on the website that Tomasko links clearly shows this in the results. Options like the Canon 500D and the Raynox series are multi element (two or more) and coated filters and made of high-grade optical glass.
In short they work far better and, whilst adding glass to the setup, the image quality degradation is minimal compared to the gained advantage. Note however that you will oft find that as you increase magnification higher and higher the diffraction limit also lowers, so whilst at 1:1 you can use f13, by magnifications like 5:1 you are well down to f5.6 (this remains true even with lens approaches like the Canon MPE).
Furthermore whilst stacking is increasing the glass, you can easily stack one or two without much trouble - again provided that you are using the quality options.