Lighting

[Digital Matt]

John, you could use those lights you linked to for photography, but they are more probably used for video.

Strobes are usually much more powerful, because it's just a quick burst of light, (usually 1/4000 sec). They don't get so hot, like continuous output lighting. Most decent monolights will have a modelling light, which means they have a normal household tungesten bulb in them, that is lit until you fire the strobe. It helps you get an idea of the shadow play you'll get, plus makes focusing easier. As said, you will need a light meter if you use strobes. The sync cord that attaches to one of the strobes will attach to your camera in the "pc" port, or if you don't have that, you can get a hotshoe adapter.

The lights I have from Alienbees have "stepless" variable power. The power slider has marks for the stops, but you can slide it anywhere inbetween.

The other benefit to strobes is that they are daylight balanced, unlike tungsten lighting which would require you to do some color correction. Of course, if you are shooting digital, it's not a problem.

 

[benhasajeep]

This is a decent basic kit. The flash tubes are not user replaceable though. But you get 2 monolights, 2 stands, and 2 soft boxes. Should not be too bad for a basic home portrait kit. It really deppends on how much your willing to spend. There are some much better kits for a couple hundred more. I am just guessing price is a factor.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=402654&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation

 

[Johnboy2978]

I think I might have to just think it over for a while and save up some cash. Basically, anything would be an improvement over using the clamp work lamps I have now, but I can't really justify $600 for lights for a hobby, even though I'm not too big on doing anything half-a$$ed. If I were setting up an actual studio, I'd have some bees in my cart as we speak but I'll file that info away for later.

I appreciate the education you guys have supplied for me on the issue though. This is really a great sight, and I feel I learn lots just reading and looking.

Thanks all

 

[Johnboy2978]

Few more questions. In looking for a decent strobe, what w/s is optimal? Like the Alienbee set produces 160 true wattseconds and 400 effective wattseconds of power, with 7,000 lumenseconds of output.

**Stupid question alert** in looking at different kits, is there anything camera specific that I should be looking for in the specifications? My istDS doesn't have a pc port, but it does have a hotshoe as does my ist 35mm camera of course. I mean, can I pick any strobe set out there, and hook it to the camera via the hotshoe and it works? And is there anything that generally doesn't come standard? For example, when you buy a printer, you always have to buy the cord separate so they make an extra $20. Is there an equivalent in this area as well?

Finally, what's the deal with strobes that don't have replaceable flashtubes? This concept didn't even occur to me until benhasajeep posted that and I looked around b/h's site at other kits. What do you do with them when the bulb burns out, just chuck em out in the trash? And if so, how long should they last?

Sorry for all the questions, but I'd like to know what I'm getting into before I continue to consider this. You guys have really educated me so far, I never really thought light could be so complicated.

 

[Digital Matt]

What kinds of photos are you planning on taking? That will determine how much wattage you need. For most portraits, the Alienbees 400s will be fine I'm sure. If you are shooting large groups, or trying to light big open spaces, then you'll want more power. I bought 2 800s for myself, to allow a bit more flexibility.

You can buy a hotshoe adapter for the sync cord to plug into. That's your best bet. The Alienbees kits come with a 15' sync cord for each light, and each light has it's own 15' power cord. The flash tubes are replaceable, as well as the modeling lights, which are just standard household bulbs.