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"loaded" D5000 ISO question

2WheelPhoto

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I have looked through reviews, forums, etc and I can't seem to find info on what ISO settings noise starts trashing a pic? I know it may be opinion but any advise may save me a whole lot of time testing, or at least I'll be close when I do go out and try and see what work for me.

I'm using fast lens. 35mm f1.8, 11-16mm 2.8 and still ISO 800 and such doesn't seem to be getting it for me

thanks in advance
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Probably because the 'acceptable' level noise in a photo is a matter of personal choice. You may think it's just fine at 800, while someone else thinks it looks like garbage at 400.
 
in camera noise reduction vs. raw -> post noise reduction and what type and how much are also factors..
 
thanks guys, I'm shooting raw and using lightroom, 800 has been an issue as far as reduction.

i read in the mags all the time where they test cams at different ISO's, just wondering what the low-end D5000 is good for.

I don't want to upgrade my body till the D300/700 upgrades roll out anyway and I know this cam isn't as good handling low light
 
There are times when my D700 isn't acceptable at ISO 200.

You can take several pictures of the same thing, than stack them. That's what I do on my 700 when I know i'm going to post-process the sh*t out of something.
 
It also depends on your exposure. Noise will be less noticeable in a properly exposed photo vs. an under exposed one. With my D5000, I've had perfectly usable photos at ISO800 when I I have a properly exposed frame. Transversely, I've had unusable crap at ISO200 when much of the frame is underexposed. Personally, I try to keep at or below ISO400 unless I am completely out of options, as that seems to be the tipping point for when I see noticeable noise that I have a hard time post processing out.

Sw1tchFX, are you referring to exposure blending, or just stacking many images of the same exposure value?
 
In the D700, and most Nikons, you can do multiple exposures, just like with film. So what I do is turn the multiple exposure on and set it to 10 images, don't forget to turn auto-gain on. hit OK, and rack off 10 images. The camera than stacks them all into one, even works with RAW!

That way, when i have to do alot of shadow recovery, i don't have any noise to deal with because i'm basically amplifying the signal by having the camera stack 10 exposures on top of eachother. Detail stays the same, noise gets averaged out.

Now there are by-products to this i've found. Usually it works awesome, but when you're getting such a true signal, you really start to see the limitations of these 14-bit bayer interpolated sensors. Color banding can become more obvious in open skies, and often times really tight details (especially in the red and blue channels) can start to look blocky. These are both things that noise or grain typically hide, but the latter has everything to do with red and blue pixels only making up 25% of the sensor each.

This is what makes the Sigma Foveon sensor so amazing, and medium format digital untouchable. The Foveon doesn't do any bayer interpolation, so each pixel contains R,G, and B values in them. Medium format can often do what's called Multi-Shot where the camera takes a R,G, B, and K picture, than interpolates so that the resulting pixels also have R, G, and B values in them and the file is 16-bit.

Bayer interpolations sucks. It was figured out in the mid 1970's and has just stuck with us because it's cheap n' easy.
 
Thanks for the detailed feedback. To clarify one thing, is your D700 stacking these images in camera and combining them to produce one image/RAW file as a result? Or are you simply referring to ripping off a bunch of images and using a program during PP to stack them? I was planning on downloading Deep Sky Stacker for some star trail photographs I have planned for this summer, but don't know if the program would be adaptable to a wider range of image stacking applications, to be useful for more than just star trail photography.
 
The D700 does it in camera, no software required :)
 

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