Looking to get my first prime lens

[mikk]

Thanks Ballistics. I think its time to bring the camera out and start taking more pix!

 

[mikk]

@ mtvision, ya we get cought up in the moment and not paying enough attention to the settings. There is just sooo much more to the dslr cameras, makes me kinda lost...but I like it. At this point I'm gona work with the shutter speed and different focal points with the 18-55 and see what happens. Besides digital pictures are free right??

 

[Ballistics]

Blurring also can come from a lack of light. Hence why you can get stop action photography @ 1/200 with a flash.

Great minds think alike!

They sure do

Depending on your camera, the sync speed can be 1/200 or 1/250. My camera goes up to 1/250 with a flash.

 

[ricbkewl]

Buy yourself a 70-200 f2.8 and call it a day!

 

[mrpink]

Just a note. Do not sell your kit lens. It is worth maybe $50 used, but is priceless as a backup lens or something to throw on the body when you sell it.






p!nK

 

[Nikon_Josh]

I always remember going on a photography course and the teacher their told me 'That I should chuck my 18-55 in the bin!', I was immediately defensive as this lens was my introduction to photography, also this lens provides sharp images. The build quality is seriously lacking on this lens and the autofocus ain't much better! But in terms of optical quality, the lens is 'very good' and I recommend giving it another go!

Don't listen to people who tell you the 18-55 can not provide you with great images, because it can! The reviews back my statement up aswell!

 

[djacobox372]

Money's not an issue. I just dont like spending it on the wrong thing. I'm getting back into photography after I got my dads Minolta 35mm camera and am starting to remember what he was teaching me. He was a Navy SeaBee and did alot of photography while in Vietnam. So from what I remember is that a prime lens with a lower F-stop number gives a crisper picture with a better DOF correct? So I was thinking of getting a good prime lens, say Nikkor 28mm f/1.8 for the closer action pictures. There is alot of shading where we shoot and I figured with a "faster" lens we could get better results.
Right now I'm waiting until after christmas to get a D7000 body. I know that getting good glass is the next step, unfortunately my dads lessons were 30 years ago so I forgot most of the good stuf. mabe. I vaguely remember how to do macro slo-motion, stop photography? and then there is double exposure. Most of what I learned was on a Minolta srT200. Thats why I got the D70, atleast this way I'm not burning through 35mm film right?

If $$ isn't an issue you should upgrade your body as well, using a fast lens to gain speed also decreases your DOF making nailing focus very difficult. Using a higher ISO allows you to shoot at tighter apertures and still capture action or operate in low light situations.

A D5100 is about three stops better then your d70 in low light, which means you can shoot at 6400iso and achieve the same quality of photos you're D70 gets at 800iso.

Also, if $$ isn't a big deal, you should opt for the 50mm f1.8g over the older AF-D version, it's MUCH sharper at f1.8 and f2--even better then the 1.4g version.

 

[tevo]

Buy yourself a 70-200 f2.8 and call it a day!

80-200 is better

 

[Destin]

Blurring also can come from a lack of light. Hence why you can get stop action photography @ 1/200 with a flash.

Flash doesn't stop motion because it's bright. It stops motion, when it overpowers the ambient light, because the duration that the flash stats lit is in the neighborhood of 1/10,000 of a second. Key point: FLASH ONLY STOPS MOTION WHEN THERE IS NO AMBIENT LIGHT AFFECTING THE EXPOSURE.

Blur doesn't come from a lack of light. It comes from too slow of a shutter speed. To compensate for which, you need a Larger aperture, higher ISO, or to add some flash.

 

[jaomul]

Would flash not put off the people taking shots?? Just wondering is it an option or do you risk getting camera put somewhere not meant for a camera

 

[tevo]

Blurring also can come from a lack of light. Hence why you can get stop action photography @ 1/200 with a flash.

Flash doesn't stop motion because it's bright. It stops motion, when it overpowers the ambient light, because the duration that the flash stats lit is in the neighborhood of 1/10,000 of a second. Key point: FLASH ONLY STOPS MOTION WHEN THERE IS NO AMBIENT LIGHT AFFECTING THE EXPOSURE.

Blur doesn't come from a lack of light. It comes from too slow of a shutter speed. To compensate for which, you need a Larger aperture, higher ISO, or to add some flash.

Blurring is caused by the camera setting (or user setting) a slow shutter speed to compensate for low light. With flash, you provide more light, and can therefore use a faster shutter speed - thereby freezing motion.

 

[Destin]

Blurring is caused by the camera setting (or user setting) a slow shutter speed to compensate for low light. With flash, you provide more light, and can therefore use a faster shutter speed - thereby freezing motion.

No, that's still not necessarily true. Unless you are using a high speed sync mode, flash doesn't allow a shutter speed higher than your sync speed, which is usually around 1/200th of a second. Using a high speed sync mode allows a faster shutter speed, but the trade off of it is that your flashes power is dramatically reduced.

 

[tevo]

Blurring is caused by the camera setting (or user setting) a slow shutter speed to compensate for low light. With flash, you provide more light, and can therefore use a faster shutter speed - thereby freezing motion.

No, that's still not necessarily true. Unless you are using a high speed sync mode, flash doesn't allow a shutter speed higher than your sync speed, which is usually around 1/200th of a second. Using a high speed sync mode allows a faster shutter speed, but the trade off of it is that your flashes power is dramatically reduced.

A faster shutter meaning around 1/200th.. lol I'm not talking high speed sync - simply saying that using a flash allows for a shutter at a high enough speed to freeze motion (of course depending on the speed of the object moving)

 

[Film66]

A prime lens is not a zoom lens. When we are talking about a prime len's we usually mean a 50 m/m on a 35mm camera or a 80 m/m on a 6x6. The quality of these lens's is superior to the equivalent zoom.

 

[tevo]

A prime lens is not a zoom lens. When we are talking about a prime len's we usually mean a 50 m/m on a 35mm camera or a 80 m/m on a 6x6. The quality of these lens's is superior to the equivalent zoom.

Primes are single focal length lenses.