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Looking to start a home studio.

Those lights are continuous and doesn't look like the power output can be adjusted. Not sure if thats the best way to go when learning about off camera lighting. I'm sure one of the pro's will chime in. Derrell had showed me a great starter kit from Adorama a Flashpoint set but the shipping was 180 for the set. :(
 
DAM! Yeah I just want something that will light my subject nicely, and leave no shadow or little to none. I want something good yet not something that's going to burn my wallet you know? I know they're ?continueous? but I would have to buy wired triggers and stuff for strobes since my D40x has NO commander mode. :(
 
Ah I see. I'm not sure at all then. Have you checked in town for continuous lights then or what about cheap strobe kits from Midwest Photo. They have some starving student kits with the LumoPro Flashes that Strobist.com is fond of. Not sure what shipping is like from them.
 
DAM! Yeah I just want something that will light my subject nicely, and leave no shadow or little to none. I want something good yet not something that's going to burn my wallet you know? I know they're ?continueous? but I would have to buy wired triggers and stuff for strobes since my D40x has NO commander mode. :(

So many misconceptions here, where to start...hmm....

First, shadows ARE NOT BAD. Mugshots have no shadows on the face...is that what you want?

Second, affordable and wireless IS possible...IF you're willing to learn how to do things manually.

Start with Strobist: Lighting 101 to learn the basic/affordable way to light off-camera...that will work with any camera that has a manual mode and a hot shoe.

There are many options for "cheap" strobes, Vivitar 285HV's for one...coming in at less than $90/ea. on average. Then to get them to fire, "Poverty Wizards" or eBay remote wireless triggers which can be had for less than $50. Get a stand or two, and a few light modifiers (umbrella, softbox, snoot, etc.) and you're off and running.

All for less than $300 total, you can have a pretty effective set up, while learning the nuances of off-camera lighting techniques.
 
Hmmm thanks for all that info guys. Yeah I was just really happy when i saw the link that I myself posted. Simply due to the umbrellas and the big backdrop. I thought the continueous lighting like that would help I also have an SB600 which I would use mounted then the 2 umbrellas camera left and camera right and the small light lighting the backdrop behind it.
 
If you have an SB600 can't that trigger strobes?
 
The SB-600 user's manual is often a good source for accurate info. ;)

The SB-600 does not have a sync cable port, nor does it have Commander mode.
 
DAM! Yeah I just want something that will light my subject nicely, and leave no shadow or little to none.

First, shadows ARE NOT BAD. Mugshots have no shadows on the face...is that what you want?

Fat beat me to it. Shadows are what gives a photo depth and feel. Without them you are just Lindsay Lohan holding up numbers again.

Good and cheap are two things that rarely go together, even more rare when you are talking about photog gear.

The cheapest thing you will ever find when it comes to lighting is knowledge. There are tutorials out there showing how to light a portrait sessions using clamp lights, CFL's and white sheets. Google is your friend.

So I guess that's a NO then huh.

Well.... there are ways. Optical triggers will work. Cactus (eBay) triggers work well. All of these options will require you to set each strobe manually.





p!nK
 
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I don't know if you'd be interested in this, but I'm setting my lighting kit up like this;
SB600 for ittl and on quick on camera shooting.
2 lumo pro lp160
and using the cactus triggers for the wireless.

I'll be ordering it here in the next month. The reason I went that way is because if I've done my research correctly, the LP160 has an optical slave, as in it doesn't need a commander mode. It can fire from another flash period. So I'm thinking with those 3 flashes and 2 cactus setups I should be peachy.
 
I don't know if you'd be interested in this, but I'm setting my lighting kit up like this;
SB600 for ittl and on quick on camera shooting.
2 lumo pro lp160
and using the cactus triggers for the wireless.

I'll be ordering it here in the next month. The reason I went that way is because if I've done my research correctly, the LP160 has an optical slave, as in it doesn't need a commander mode. It can fire from another flash period. So I'm thinking with those 3 flashes and 2 cactus setups I should be peachy.

have you shot with solely with flash before? do you have a decent flash meter
 
Derrell had showed me a great starter kit from Adorama a Flashpoint set but the shipping was 180 for the set. :(

shipping is free from Adorama --

this is the setup derrell suggested (i believe)

FPBK1 Flashpoint Budget Studio Monolight Flash Basic Kit with 2 160 Watt Second Flashes, 7' Light Stands, 33" White Umbrellas & Softex Carrying Case.

and it's just 199 - shipping is FREE!

Flash gives much better lighting, and freezes action. problem with continuous lighting is you usually have either stay in the wide open aperture or longer exposure, which won't be sharp with someone breathing.

I've been doing a LOT of research on these basic setups - big difference in flash vs continous lighting (said Mr Obvious) with most of the benefits on the flash side.

The 1000 watts you posted above is not a lot of light by any means when it comes to portraits, and doesn't compare the same as the 160watt flash. the 160 is measured in a second, the continuous using another factor, but it's not 840 watts brighter. The flash is much better.

that's all I can offer on this subject. i'm sure there are others that can correct my inaccuracies.
 

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