Malibu Bluffs for c&c

[Carla_]

How's this one for comp/exposure? Can it be improved? I'm hoping to come back when the wildflowers are blooming.

TIA

Carla

 

[Patrice]

Nice spot and pretty good composition, however I can't help but notice the far elements in the photo appear to be out of focus. Could be caused by haze or it might be that the DOF at f/8 is too shallow at the distance you focused.

 

[KmH]

The forgound is underexposed. I would likely have moved the foreground shoreline higher in the frame so there was less sky.

The camera EXIF data indicates it expected the flash to be used.

A graduated neutral density (GND) filter on the lens can darken the brighter-than-the-foreground sky, or you can make 2 exposures: one for the sky and one for the foreground, and then composite the 2 post process.

The image EXIF data does not show the focus point distance, but using a 35 mm lens at f/8 you would have difficulty getting the near foreground and the distant background both in focus.

A wider lens would have been a better focal length choice.

 

[Carla_]

Thanks for the quick responses.

Patrice, it was haze from the marine layer over the ocean. Is there a way to make it look more like fog and less like it's out of focus?

Keith, thanks. I used a polarizer but I don't have a grad nd filter. How can you tell the foreground is underexposed? And how did you edit the photo? It looks a lot better.

Carla

 

[KmH]

Keith, thanks. I used a polarizer but I don't have a grad nd filter. How can you tell the foreground is underexposed?

By using an experienced eye and a regularly calibrated display.

And how did you edit the photo? It looks a lot better.

I used Photoshop CS5 and cropped some sky off the top. I then duplicated the Background layer and named it Copy 1, and then made a new layer filled with 50% gray I named Dodge/Burn (3 layers). I did all my edits on just the Copy 1 and Dodge/Burn layers.

On the Copy 1 layer I used the sharpening tool (not the sharpening filter) with the 'preserve details' box checked on the land in the far background and across onto the hills on the right in the middle ground.
On the Dodge/Burn layer I dodged the clouds and parts of the foreground. I then burned the land in the far background, across onto the hills on the right in the middle ground, and some parts of the foreground to add some depth.
I then flattened the layers and added a thin black border.

 

[Carla_]

Keith,

Thanks. I'll see what I can do with it when I find some time.

 

[FSJeffo]

The forgound is underexposed. I would likely have moved the foreground shoreline higher in the frame so there was less sky.

The camera EXIF data indicates it expected the flash to be used.

A graduated neutral density (GND) filter on the lens can darken the brighter-than-the-foreground sky, or you can make 2 exposures: one for the sky and one for the foreground, and then composite the 2 post process.

The image EXIF data does not show the focus point distance, but using a 35 mm lens at f/8 you would have difficulty getting the near foreground and the distant background both in focus.

A wider lens would have been a better focal length choice.

View attachment 4005

OMG do I ever have a lot to learn :facepalm:

JM

 

[KmH]

The forgound is underexposed. I would likely have moved the foreground shoreline higher in the frame so there was less sky.

The camera EXIF data indicates it expected the flash to be used.

A graduated neutral density (GND) filter on the lens can darken the brighter-than-the-foreground sky, or you can make 2 exposures: one for the sky and one for the foreground, and then composite the 2 post process.

The image EXIF data does not show the focus point distance, but using a 35 mm lens at f/8 you would have difficulty getting the near foreground and the distant background both in focus.

A wider lens would have been a better focal length choice.

View attachment 4005

OMG do I ever have a lot to learn :facepalm:

JM

Start here - http://www.thephotoforum.com/forum/...-forum/267492-info-those-new-photography.html

 

[FSJeffo]

Thanks - I'm reading a bunch of Scott Kelby right now for basics like that. I actually think "The Moment It Clicks" by Joe McNally is one of the best non-fiction books I've ever read - its the perfect balance of info (mostly on lighting) and entertainment. I actually quoted the wrong post - its the Photoshop stuff below that looks intimidating - and fun. Can't wait to get deeper into PSE, learning layers etc.

JM

Keith, thanks. I used a polarizer but I don't have a grad nd filter. How can you tell the foreground is underexposed?

By using an experienced eye and a regularly calibrated display.

And how did you edit the photo? It looks a lot better.

I used Photoshop CS5 and cropped some sky off the top. I then duplicated the Background layer and named it Copy 1, and then made a new layer filled with 50% gray I named Dodge/Burn (3 layers). I did all my edits on just the Copy 1 and Dodge/Burn layers.

On the Copy 1 layer I used the sharpening tool (not the sharpening filter) with the 'preserve details' box checked on the land in the far background and across onto the hills on the right in the middle ground.
On the Dodge/Burn layer I dodged the clouds and parts of the foreground. I then burned the land in the far background, across onto the hills on the right in the middle ground, and some parts of the foreground to add some depth.
I then flattened the layers and added a thin black border.

 

[KmH]

Visit www.elementsvillage.com

 

[FSJeffo]

Cool, thanks KmH - bookmarked. Sorry, OP - back to your C&C (I would, but I'm obviously under-qualified)

JM