Manual Mode Vs Aperture priority mode Please Help!!!

Anybody know why this is?

Because Trey Ratcliff is a douche.

He's got a some decent images, don't get me wrong, and a strong sense of composition. But his portfolio is loudmouthed, self-absorbed and obnoxious. He doesn't use his meter; he's a ± clicker - thus the reason why he needs to use NR and his best images may not even need to be HDR in the first place.
 
First understand what Aperture priority is doing.

In aperture priority mode the photographer sets the aperture and the ISO for the photo. You then take a meter reading using the built in camera meter (using the metering settings selected by the user) and based upon that meter reading on the chosen scene the camera will automatically select the correct shutter speed. If the lighting changes (whilst the camera is still metering - ie shutter button held half down) or the user changes the aperture and/or the ISO the camera will instantly change the shutter speed to compensate.
You also have exposure compensation in this mode, which tells the camera that when it sets the shutter speed it should either under or overexpose the photo by the selected number of stops of light. This can be good when the camera meter is being fooled by the current lighting (eg if shooting scene with lots of snow the camera will expose it grey rather than white since 18% grey is the target the camera works to - so a photographer can tell the camera to overexpose and thus bring the exposure back up to what the photographer wants).



In full manual mode the photographer must set all 3 settings themselves - that is aperture, shutter speed and ISO. There is no exposure compensation here, since if the photographer wishes to adjust the exposure from the suggested metered value then they just have to change the settings themselves. There is a meter reading in this mode which, instead of being a target is showing what the actual current lighting is giving (whilst the camera is metering the scene).

There is exposure compensation, assuming you use auto ISO.
 
^^ can't you set EC to be Av or Tv prioritized? I always assumed that is how it worked depending on the AE mode.
 
What does this have to do with HDR?
 
C
Anybody know why this is?
Because Trey Ratcliff is a douche.He's got a some decent images, don't get me wrong, and a strong sense of composition. But his portfolio is loudmouthed, self-absorbed and obnoxious. He doesn't use his meter; he's a ± clicker - thus the reason why he needs to use NR and his best images may not even need to be HDR in the first place.
I find this answer very funny. You may think he is a douche but that douche is well respected and makes a very good living doing what he does best.He has found away to disregard curtain "rules of photography" and the elitist such as yourself just act like haters.I would love to see your portfolio compared to his. Professional and enthusiasts know is name and consider him a professional photographer do they know yours and associate your name with the same respect or are you just known on this forum for your obnoxious comments?
 
The reason Trey uses Aperture Priority and I advocate it also, Is because we Do Auto Exposure Bracketing for HDR. 3 Images 2 Stops apart. A critical part of it though is correctly getting your 0 image point. You can do that either by Locking your exposure with your Exposure lock button or using Exposure compensation along with auto exposure Bracketing
 
C
Anybody know why this is?
Because Trey Ratcliff is a douche.He's got a some decent images, don't get me wrong, and a strong sense of composition. But his portfolio is loudmouthed, self-absorbed and obnoxious. He doesn't use his meter; he's a ± clicker - thus the reason why he needs to use NR and his best images may not even need to be HDR in the first place.
I find this answer very funny. You may think he is a douche but that douche is well respected and makes a very good living doing what he does best.He has found away to disregard curtain "rules of photography" and the elitist such as yourself just act like haters.I would love to see your portfolio compared to his. Professional and enthusiasts know is name and consider him a professional photographer do they know yours and associate your name with the same respect or are you just known on this forum for your obnoxious comments?

awww! I'm not on your ignore list after all!

I couldn't care less about how he's a professional or how many fancy snappers out there respect him or how many "rules" he's broken; he's a fancy snapper. that's all. it's all about getting people to oogle him and his 'mad skillz'. His tutorial is a bunch of crap, just ±2 garbage. If that doesn't work, aww, just step it up a notch to ±3. If there wasn't enough dynamic range there, meh, that's what NR is for, right? If you can't figure out what was in his tutorial by yourself, then maybe you should actually learn photography.

You're more than welcome to look at my portfolio. I know you won't like it because subtly isn't in your vocabulary.

Flickr: ion_nine's Photostream

Specific Projects and Themes:

Complex Forms in Nature - a set on Flickr
Context and Relationship - a set on Flickr
Minimum Focus - a set on Flickr
Architecture and Details - a set on Flickr
Landscape and Nature - a set on Flickr
Abstracts - a set on Flickr
 
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And no. I will never have the respect that your Ratcliff has because I'm not interested in that sort of thing.
 
Kinda missed the point, didn't you.

Go learn how to use your meter Bynx.
 
C
Because Trey Ratcliff is a douche.He's got a some decent images, don't get me wrong, and a strong sense of composition. But his portfolio is loudmouthed, self-absorbed and obnoxious. He doesn't use his meter; he's a ± clicker - thus the reason why he needs to use NR and his best images may not even need to be HDR in the first place.
I find this answer very funny. You may think he is a douche but that douche is well respected and makes a very good living doing what he does best.He has found away to disregard curtain "rules of photography" and the elitist such as yourself just act like haters.I would love to see your portfolio compared to his. Professional and enthusiasts know is name and consider him a professional photographer do they know yours and associate your name with the same respect or are you just known on this forum for your obnoxious comments?

awww! I'm not on your ignore list after all!

I couldn't care less about how he's a professional or how many fancy snappers out there respect him or how many "rules" he's broken; he's a fancy snapper. that's all. it's all about getting people to oogle him and his 'mad skillz'. His tutorial is a bunch of crap, just ±2 garbage. If that doesn't work, aww, just step it up a notch to ±3. If there wasn't enough dynamic range there, meh, that's what NR is for, right? If you can't figure out what was in his tutorial by yourself, then maybe you should actually learn photography.

You're more than welcome to look at my portfolio. I know you won't like it because subtly isn't in your vocabulary.

Flickr: ion_nine's Photostream

Specific Projects and Themes:

Complex Forms in Nature - a set on Flickr
Context and Relationship - a set on Flickr
Minimum Focus - a set on Flickr
Architecture and Details - a set on Flickr
Landscape and Nature - a set on Flickr
Abstracts - a set on Flickr

Expect VipGrafx to come back with a poorly composed response telling you how bad your images are, and how much better his are than yours.
 
Guys stop the silly infighting and remain on topic. Also respect the fact that different photographers work with different methods and that many (who might or might not be very good) who are set in their ways might well advocate methods of learning and working which "skip steps" or "break the rules". It's my view that following these guidelines for a learner is bad advise because its not reinforcing them with the basic underlying rules. You've got to learn the rules and the basics before you can break them; otherwise you are just breaking the same rules as someone else and thus significantly limiting your understanding and diversity of options.

Once you've learnt those basic underlying factors you can then start to emulate others work process or even develop your own based on how you like to shoot and what result you like to get

There is exposure compensation, assuming you use auto ISO.

Ahh I totally forgot that! In Canon cameras there isn't any exposure compensation in the manual mode at all. If you want to under or over expose you just set the settings so that the meter needle shows the desired exposure change. However Nikon cameras do allow exposure compensation in manual mode. In their case they are able to bias the meter scale, so that the middle point no longer represents 0 but either a + or - number (ie over or under exposure).
 
To further understand why Aperture priority "Can" be helpful in HDR when bracketing images is one of Image Registration or alignment of the 3 or more images. This becomes a critical part of getting a good clear final image. Photmatix does a great job of aligning your exposures , the other manufacturers struggle with this. But the more you can do to help this the better off you will be.
So this is why doing your setting manually, even though you are on a tripod can cause some movement between frames. If you are careful it won't but it can happen. But if you use Aperture priority and AEB ( automatic Exposure Bracketing) with either a remote or using your timer, it can help keep each frame registered correctly

You of course DON'T have to do it that way, but it is a reason why

And it also keeps people from mistakenly changing Aperture betwween frames instead of shutter speed which causes even worse problems
 
And it has only been recently that Nikon has let one do EC in manual mode.
 
Just to be clear about one thing though and I only know Canon's do this For sure( Nikon DSLR's probably do too). AEB also function in Manual mode. Which can be very helpful when your framing may not be where you need to meter. A lot of P & S's do not offer this function in Manual mode only in Aperture priority
 

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